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Discussion Starter #1
Hello. This is my first time building a BBF so i was hoping i could get some suggestions from you guys. I'm building a ~700hp motor that will be probably 99% street duty, and no slicks.

What kind of mods do you suggest to my C6 to handle this kind of power?
 

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C6 mods

For the street I'd use a 5 clutch hi/rev drum, 5 clutch forward, if its not already included, 6 clutch low and a HD sprag, R servo and a lever compatable with the R servo [I forget the lever ID] a shift kit to moderatly raise the line pressure. Some people would recommend a roller bearing kit but I don't feel its nessessary for 99% street use, drag racing yes. Use a converter that matches your specs such as car weight, cam, ect.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info.

What company did you buy those components from?
 

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You can do the 5 clutch thing for a few bucks at a machine shop. Raise the snap ring groove in the one clutch pack and machine the end plate down in the other one. (It's been so long since I've had the reliable old thing apart, I can't remember which one I did which to...) :lol:
My low reverse only had 4 clutches, and I just left it the way it was, and I've never had any trouble with it, but maybe I've been lucky.
 

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John I. said:
You can do the 5 clutch thing for a few bucks at a machine shop. Raise the snap ring groove in the one clutch pack and machine the end plate down in the other one. (It's been so long since I've had the reliable old thing apart, I can't remember which one I did which to...) :lol:
My low reverse only had 4 clutches, and I just left it the way it was, and I've never had any trouble with it, but maybe I've been lucky.
I recommend not regrooving the hi/rev drum as one of the steel plates can hang up in the old groove but I guess if the clearances are closely checked one might get away with it. For a street trans I find a 4 clutch drum [single ID groove] and cut down the thick backing plate to a similar shape of the forward clutch bevel spring plate and sneak in an extra clutch. The 4 clutch low is doable as all it does is release in "manual" low [the sprag clutch does the same thing in "Drive", it doesn't have to stop a heavy drum like the band does or the hi/rev drum. With the torque and hp the poster was looking for the engine may overpower the low gear clutch. An extra clutch will provide about 20% more holding power.
 

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Oh, it was the high/reverse that I raised the snap ring in... :lol:
Actually, I thought of the same thing, so I gave the old groove a quick zap with the MIG 180* apart to keep the steel from hanging up.
 

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Alto sells what they call a "power pack" for the direct clutch"high reverse" or front. It has thinner frictions and steels so you can add a couple more and comes with several snap rings to adj clearance. I think it goes for around $35.00 It works very well. I would also use Teflon sealing rings $5.00 Just my .02 cents
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the advice guys. I've only ever run manual transmissions, so i'm new to the whole automatic thing.

So what is the advantage to rollerizing the trans?
 

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Frees up some power from reduced friction.Stops oil contamination from particles that wear off the thrust washers.The # 9 is the main one.
The main reason is it sounds good when someone asks.. :lol: :lol: :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Are there any sites out there that show someone rebuilding one? Since i've never rebuild one, it's hard to ask specifics without know what i'm talking about.
 
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