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Discussion Starter #1
I just had my C6 transmission rebuilt and also installed a shift kit. I have noticed that when I manually shift from 1st to 2nd it doesn't do it exactly when I shift it.

It takes a second for it to shift. It's not like it is slipping, it just doesn't do it exactly when I want to. Is this normal or is there a problem? It works great when I just put it in "D" and let it shift on it's own.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
tubais said:
are you putting around or hammering on it when your shifting?
Full throttle going down the track. I was trying to shift at a certian rpm and I shifted and it stayed in gear and pulled about 500-1000 more rpm and then shifted. It didn't seem like it was slipping.

When the transmission guy rebuilt the trans he was having problems with it wanting to start out in second gear ever so often. He told me he put some type of aditive that should help it out. He told me that these old transmissions just need to run a little a get hot a couple of times before they start working right. It has only started off in second once with me since I got the trans back from him. (I thought I would just throw that in. I have about 250-300 miles on it now)

Edit: It pulled more than 400 because I was scared it was never going to shift and it almost went to 6000 when I was trying to shift about 5,000.
 

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*He told me that these old transmissions just need to run a little a get hot a couple of times before they start working right* :shock:

My cheeta vb C6 shifts like that sometimes but the delay is only 200 or so rpms. Its a manual/auto vb and to tell you the truth it shifts better and I run faster letting it auto shift at full throttle.
 

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delayed shift

Try disconnecting the kickdown link and go out for a runand manual shift. If it shafts instantly upon your control the kick down link will need to be adjusted to a lower setting. Other items to look at is the modulator and make sure that the modulator rod was installed after the rebuild.
A vacuum leak on the modulator line will cause the shift pt to dwell.

Those are the only external circumstances that I have experianced.
If it's the kick down just leave it off who needs it anyway.

Dave
 

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sounds like he only did half an overhaul, ie ; never bothered with the low/reverse piston seals or the govenor
just my .02
Frank
what's the line pressure?
 

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FoMoCo said:
*He told me that these old transmissions just need to run a little a get hot a couple of times before they start working right* :shock:

My cheeta vb C6 shifts like that sometimes but the delay is only 200 or so rpms. Its a manual/auto vb and to tell you the truth it shifts better and I run faster letting it auto shift at full throttle.
My C6 has a fairbanks kit in it and it runs better in drive also. My c-4s with stock valve bodies and shift kits also ran better in drive. When manually shifting it shouldnt matter what the kickdown or vac modulator is seeing, right? or no.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am not using a kick down linkage.


When he first got the trans installed he said he didn't think I had enough vacume. I told him it pulls 16inch pounds at 750-800rpm because I had a vacume gauge on the same tree as the vacume line runing to the trans when I was tuning the carb.

Could my shift linkage be wrong? I have been meaning to check the linkage. When I set the linkage I put the lever in drive and put the column in drive and then tighten down. I wonder this because it's touchy now with the safety switch.
 

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tranny

Take the vacume hose off the modulator valve and check for a set screw if it has one tighten it up 1/2 turn at a time till it shifts better. If trans fluid leaks out of the modulator replace it.
Hope this helps Gregg
 
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