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rollerizing a c-6

i can't get the link on here to work is it just my computer? is there anouther link on the how to? built several c-6 's but never rollerized one.
 

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Hi, I just rebuilt my first C6 with a TCI kit and have a problem. It seemed to work ok around the yard but when I drove it I lost fwd gears. It worked ok until the trans went to shift into 2nd. I pulled it back apart and found the fwd clutch drum broken at the snap ring groove. I just want to make sure I fix this right.
It's a 78 F350 2wd with a 460. The fwd clutch had 4 frictions and steels and a wave plate when I took it apart, the TCI kit said to not use the wave plate so I put another friction in its place and the clearance looked ok. What do you think? Should I use the wave plate? Where's the best place to get a fwd drum from? I did find a blown out spot on the valvebody gasket also.



Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
leave the wave plate out ,get a new gasket for the vb and torque the vb halves to 45-55 in/lbs also check to make sure the pressure valve is not stuck on the vb , an new drum from ford will work as well used ones start to crack over time then break
Frank
 

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ha frank build transmiision for a living have a 70 torino 460 with e40d c6. looking for the budget ideas for manual reverse pattern vb with brake. do you have plans to do this on the cheap. if not what is the best to buy.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
a transbrake vb is not a easy build ,they take me 20-25 hrs each , and I'm sold out out this years build of 20
Frank
 

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i want to go back to a automatic for consistancy but every tranny guy is recommending me a c4 or a powerglide. nobody seems to like a c6 and they say that the transbrake just doesn't work right.

i'm sure there are guys who can build them, but is there somebody who can make a good brake for them? the tci one any good?
 

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Stay away from the TCI unit. Either Franks or a Broader unit.
i haven't bought anything yet but i need to go back to an automatic with my car thats receiving a 521 scj-a stroker from my tko600 manual trans.

every shop i call up, they want me to build a powerglide but i'll have to adapt a speedo cable which is the hardest part and make a cross member (butchering up a c4 one isn't a problem cuz they are dime out of a dozen) and making a driveshaft.

i also get told to build a c4 if i want to stay all ford which i can understand. but since c4's get built to handle the power, they need more maintenance done to them. and i do hear that c6's are tough as snot and need less maintenance.

so has anybody gotten good results with a c6 with a brake? i've got a c6 in the backyard that could be redone if needed.
 

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I have had great luck with mine! I built it using this thread. I do have the TCI brake, however it was fixed by Frank! If you don't fix it , it WILL burn high clutch pack on the FIRST pass!!! It is in the new car now for it's 6th season of racing with only fluid changes. Only problems associated with it was, I blew 2 9" rears apart and twisted 2 drive shaft yokes using the brake! Get a good cm yoke! Good luck! Dragz79
 

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good luck finding the 4 pinion planetary if you don't have one!!!!
This is what I do aC-6 build and it seems to give good durability

- Low /reverse Clutch
- piston use the old style with the 24 return springs and the check ball , locate check ball at 12 o'clock (these springs have a free length of 1.070" as opposed to the high/reverse free length of 1.400"
- fibre's & steels , I prefer red alto's and kolenes but the stock clutches hold up well, If your trans has a waveplate discard it . I like to have a min of 5 fibres and steels set at .060 clearance ( .012 per fibre and steel) . the pressure plate may need a step machined in the out edge twice as thick as the snapring to aid in installation of the snapring, use a magnet base dail indicator mounted to the rear sprag race to check clearance- air check
- rear planetary hub use the one with the 1" long splines
- rear planetary- preferred is a 4 pinion
- Forward clutch - prefer red alto's and kolenes,and use the new style drum (new style has a wave plate, 5 & 5 here plus the wave plate .040-.050 clearance, the pressure may need a step machined in it for the snapring or you can use a second internal pressure plate as the outer , make sure you have the right forward ringgear assemble . the new style drum has a .400 deep torrington pocket were as the old style only had a .330 deep pocket and the ringgear asembles are different the new style has longer splines on the outside and the hub is different also. a missmatch of parts here will raise havoc with end play , the planetary's are the same 3 pinion, the reason for using the wave in the forward is that with racing line pressures and no waveplate it tends to snap the end of the drum off at the snapring groove after a period of time .In my max effort trannies I leave out the wave and contend with the drum breaking if and when it happens , ussally I just put an new drum in each year

2nd gear - "R" servo and an "E" lever and the toughest spring I have , Band I been getting good service out of the 2 1/2 " flex band kevlar lined

- High/reverse drum , 5 clutch drum preferred, but the stock 3 clutch drum can give good service if modified by cutting a new snap ring groove . there is 2 alternatives here depending on which drum you have as some drums have a longer spline than others the ones with the long spline an new 1/8" groove is to be machined in the drum at .565 from the bottom of the original to the top of the new groove this will allow you to use one of the stock selective snap rings to achieve a clearance of of .012 - .013 per fibre & steel and using alto pt# 026757HP kit you can install 6 fibre's and 6 steels witha clearance of .072-.078 (note Alto's recommended clearance with this kit is way to tight) with the shorter splined drum you machine a new snap ring 11/8" groove in at .400 up from 5the bottom of the original groove to the top of the new groove and then step cut the pressure plate approx .165 " to allow snap ring installation and removal. With this mod the drum will hold 5 x 5 standard red alto's and kolene steels . another drum mod to do is drill a series of 1/8" holes into the perimeter of the drum in a zig-zag pattern were the steels engage in the drum , this ads in letting the oil out of the drum a cools the clutches by letting more oil flow through between the clutches , also fill all spring pockets in the piston with springs.
-pump sealing rings , get and use teflon sealing rings as they last a lot longer than the cast rings and they do not wear the drum
- set trans end play at .020-.045"
- and adjust the band , tighten to 120 inlbs and back of 1 1/2 turns and tighten lock nut


any Questions email me at [email protected] or call 403-793-5412

Link to rollerizing a c6 http://460ford.com/viewtopic.php?t=8558&sid=393341777e7d9a6bd7958594ececc708
 

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What would be different for a street or with an auto VB? Also I found a 5 disc forward drum. How do I know what piston it takes and what bevel spring should I use?
 

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What would be different for a street or with an auto VB? Also I found a 5 disc forward drum. How do I know what piston it takes and what bevel spring should I use?
All depends on what you want to do with the car , how much power etc whether you stay auto shifts or go manual .

The forward pistons are much the same all years except some use a square cut seal ( early up to 74?) and some use a lip type seal . The bevel springs i normally use the later thicker .094" one
 
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