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Discussion Starter #1
My trans shifts too late (when floored) when the Lokar kickdown is connected. Shifts fine if not floored. My trans guy said it may be adjusted too tight and to try it without the kickdown connected. It shifts fine without kickdown connected but does not shift at as high of an rpm. When it is connected it seems to not want to shift, overrevs the engine until I let up a bit, then shifts. The trans is not slipping. Is this just an adjustment? I have loosened it up a bit and it still did it at the track. It was working fine until I changed the carb spacer which probably tightened up the kickdown cable a bit, but after loosening, it still does it, I'm wondering how loose it would need to be.

Is this just a kickdown cable adjustment or do I have trans problems?
 

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I thought the kickdown on a C6 was either on or off. (applied or not applied)
I'm wondering if the kickdown wasn't actually working until you changed the carb spacer. What rpm does it shift at now when floored?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I thought the kickdown on a C6 was either on or off. (applied or not applied)
I'm wondering if the kickdown wasn't actually working until you changed the carb spacer. What rpm does it shift at now when floored?
The kickdown seems to work as far as down shifting to a lower gear when floored. I don't know what rpm it shifts at now, it doesn't seem to shift unless I let up and it seems to be only the 1-2 shilft, not the 2-3 shilft. I am going to try loosening it up even more (again) but I'm beginning to think something is wrong with the trans because it shifts okay without the kickdown connected but shifts too early.
 

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My C6 has an adjustable modulator. You can adjust the shift point any where you want. I set up my kickdown so that wide open throttle gives full application to the kick down lever. I think if you make it too tight, you will just bend stuff and stretch your cable, but it shouldn't really affect the shift point at WOT, but may at part throttle. Check your modulator for adjustability. I can't remember if you need a little flathead screwdriver or an allen wrench, but it is small.
 

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Also, I can't remember where I read it, but if I recall correctly, you want the modulator with the black stripe on it. Don't quote me on that. Maybe Frank will have some input here.
 

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Modulator pins.

There are several different pin lengths that affect upshift speeds.

1.601-1.611
1.634-1.644
1.650-1.660
1.667-1.677

The shortest will have a lower shift point.

I cut them from a metal coat hanger.
Round the ends.
 

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My trans shifts too late (when floored) when the Lokar kickdown is connected. Shifts fine if not floored.



Isn't the modulator out of the picture when "it's floored" or am I wrong?

I was able to adjust mine to shift at exactly 6000 rpm when floored in drive. This was while using the kickdown too. I don't know how it works, but a few turns of the screw put it where I wanted it. It took a few full throttle runs on a "closed course, professional driver, do not attempt this downtown" area. :D It has been a while, but I think I was able to make it go too far until the hydraulic lifters didn't appreciate it. But that was many years and beers ago. If I am wrong, at least it is free. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I really don't know how it all works either but I thought the vacuum modulator was for part throttle shifts, and the high speed governor controlled the full throttle shifts, with the kickdown lever controlling kickdown. What I don't understand is why when I connect the kickdown it over revs, so obviously I don't understand it at all. :eek: I tested it today and it shifts fine when you manually shift it and when left in drive it shifts fine also. Can the vacuum modulator keep it from shifting at all? Or maybe the high speed governor is sticking? :confused:
 

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the kickdown raises line pressure which in turn raises the governor pressure , adjust the kickdown to get you shifts at the rpm that you want
Frank
 

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Sorry to hijack, but I don't run a kick-down lever. Is that going to be an issue?:confused:

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Success

:DAfter loosening it up quite a bit it stopped the overrevving but I wasn't happy with the lower shift rpm, plus the kickdown wasn't working. I then tightened it up a bit and it downshifts correctly and shifts correctly too.
I want to thank all who responded for the help.:D
 

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Nick you are not alone. I use a Lokar kickdown and have a similar issue. 1-2 shift is fine and it will shift into 3 but if I hold it floored it will often shift back down into 2 and I get the over revving situation. If I just slightly let off it will shift back into 3 and away I go. One thing I dont like about the Lokar setup is that if you adjust the cable to just pull the kickdown lever of the transmission at full throttle then there is quite a bit of slack. The cable does not start to get pull until nearly 1/2 throttle. My understanding is the kickdown is supposed to be for passing and a quick bump of the throttle and you downshift? This extra slack seems excessive but it could just be my carb, linkage, pedal arrangement. I will try loosening the cable and see if that helps. Thanks for the input.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Nick you are not alone. I use a Lokar kickdown and have a similar issue. 1-2 shift is fine and it will shift into 3 but if I hold it floored it will often shift back down into 2 and I get the over revving situation. If I just slightly let off it will shift back into 3 and away I go. One thing I dont like about the Lokar setup is that if you adjust the cable to just pull the kickdown lever of the transmission at full throttle then there is quite a bit of slack. The cable does not start to get pull until nearly 1/2 throttle. My understanding is the kickdown is supposed to be for passing and a quick bump of the throttle and you downshift? This extra slack seems excessive but it could just be my carb, linkage, pedal arrangement. I will try loosening the cable and see if that helps. Thanks for the input.
I don't think the slack is your carb, linkage or pedal arrangement. I have put Lokars on several cars and they all have quite a bit of slack. I just had not had the overrevving problem before. The adjustment on my car seems very touchy. I wish I could have figured it out at the track, as the weather was cooler and my 60 fts were the best I had run. Oh well, the car didn't break, that's always a good thing.
 
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