Simply installing the larger valves with only the valve job opened-up, I would guess 30 cfm at the maximum on the intake and 20 cfm at the maximum in the exhaust. Not much from .300" on down and maybe even less flow when no bowl porting is done.
The "sticky" at the top of this section might have those air flows.
EDIT; The 2.200" FRPP intake valve will flow better than most other brand valves in the middle.
MAN THIS IS JUST WHAT'S NEEDED FOR MY COMBO!
I 'AM TRYING TO BUILD THE FASTEST 466 STOCK HEAD BIG BLOCK MUSTANG THAT I CAN! DON'T REALLY HERE OF IT TO MUCH, PROBLALY BECAUSE OF ALL THE STROKER STUFF AVALABLE! YOUR FLOW# NUMBERS JUST MIGHT PUT ME WERE I NEED TO WITH THE ET'S I'AM TRYING TO RUN! 10.50'S TO 10.00'S DEPENDING ON SUSPENTION!
THAN THE SPRAY! :roll: :roll: :roll:
I'm brand new to this forum, but have read many posts on it the last few weeks and learned some good things.
I'm an old Ford man from way back, and have a 'new to me' truck with a 460 and C6 in it that I'm going to modify for the most torque I can get as my 'Farm Truck'.
After doing some more research on my truck I found out that the current motor has less than 20k miles, built to stock specks in 05. I found a block recently and was about to get it built but really hate to at this point. So I changed some of my ideas on what I want to do. This will be a daily...
Im settling in on this build and Im pretty excited in the regards to the direction Im headed in. The build consists of a .030 over ford DT9E block, Lunati H beam rods, Lunati 4.5 stroke forged crank and Diamond pistons prepped for the AFR head. I have Scott Main from cam research...