Can you help me get it started?

2203 Views 15 Replies 6 Participants Last post by fordman59, Aug 10, 2010

cheqmate5000

Discussion Starter · Aug 9, 2010

I was hoping to not have to create this post but I am looking for ideas on how to get this engine started. First off, I am a noob. This is my first time working with a carburated engine so please go easy on me.

I purchased the engine a couple months ago and it was rebuilt. The guy had run the engine a couple times on the stand and was looking to purchase a car to put it in. He slowly sold off parts (distributor, etc) and then had to sell the engine. That is where I came in. I would really like to get the engine running and then slowly swap parts (electric water pump, heads, cam, intake, carb) one piece at a time so that I can confirm that the engine runs after each change.

The engine:

460 bored .040 over
pistons = unknown
rebuilt D3VE heads = unknown specifics on rebuild
cam = unknown
Edelbrock 750CFM carb
Performer intake
Duraspark II distributor
GM HEI ignition module

Steps taken so far:

Primed the oil pump which went to 40-60 (can't remember right now)

Put engine at TDC (#1 piston all the way up with both valves closed)
Installed distributor with rotor pointing toward 1 o'clock
Installed plug wires and hei module

Engine didn't turn over properly with starter
Replaced starter with dbelectrical starter

Engine still didn't turn over properly
Replaced battery

Engine wasn't getting gas
Replaced barb on mechanical fuel pump and ran clear tubing to carb to verify gas is pumping correctly

Engine now cranks over and either backfires out of the carb or shoots fire out of the exhaust manifolds.

Next steps:

Test to make sure all 8 spark plugs are firing (reconfirm wiring)
Recheck that the distributor is put in correctly
Recheck firing order

.... Your input goes here .....

Suck up my pride and ask my neighbor for help

Do I have to run a regulator when using a mechanical pump?

Thanks in advance.

Oh, I will get pictures up tonight. I put them on photobucket but don't have access to them until this evening.

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1 - 16 of 16 Posts

tall69

· #2 · Aug 9, 2010

cheqmate5000 said:
Engine now cranks over and either backfires out of the carb or shoots fire out of the exhaust manifolds.

......

Test to make sure all 8 spark plugs are firing (reconfirm wiring)
Recheck that the distributor is put in correctly
Recheck firing order

The distributor could be 180 degrees out, or just retarded. Bring the #1 cylinder back to TDC, with the valve cover off, you should see that both valves are on the seat. If the rotor is pointing towards the #1 spark plug, that's a good thing. Try starting again, keep advancing the distributor.

Did you tinker with the valve lash? That'd be the next thing to check if you've got spark and fuel.

cheqmate5000

Discussion Starter · #3 · Aug 9, 2010

I will check the distributor position again tonight and report back. I will also try adjusting the distributor advance as I set it in the middle of the range and have not touched it since.

Thanks for the suggestions.

With regards to the valve lash, I am running D3 heads with bolt on rockers. It was my understanding that these were torqued to spec without any adjustments. Is that not correct. Either way, I have not changed them since I purchased the engine.

tall69

· #4 · Aug 9, 2010

cheqmate5000 said:
With regards to the valve lash, I am running D3 heads with bolt on rockers. It was my understanding that these were torqued to spec without any adjustments. Is that not correct. Either way, I have not changed them since I purchased the engine.

In that case, the lash is probably OK. It's just another troubleshooting thing to think about.

460-n-cvx20

· #5 · Aug 9, 2010

Valve lash is possible but if you didnt touch it then dont unless you know what your doing ..
Its fairly easy to do but ... watch a utube video or two !

Also it sounds like you didnt set up your dizzy correctly...
Its shouldn't point to 1 oclock!!! ... it should point to #1 cyl ! Which would be more like 7 or 5 oclock ( i forget)

Pull the plugs... put your finger over the #1 cylinder plug hole and when you get it to TDC put your dizzy in.. mark where your cap points.. and this will be your #1 wire...
Im pretty sure they rotate counter clockwise so label the fireing order correctly after #1 ... You can look all that up on line...

Set the timing to ZERO.. Then back it off to 10 deg, and it should fire... then you can adjust from there to get good timing.. probably like 15 to 20 at 3000 rpm depending on your build..

No you dont need a fuel regulator for a mech pump...

also depending on tha cam.. that edelbrock carb might not work so well for ya ... I have had poop luck with edelbrock carbs and even mild cams...
Go to a HOLLEY ! Mech secondary with mech choke! Double pump if ya can find one !

Fireing order sounds like your prob ! Also make sure the plug wires dont touch each other!

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crittersf1

· #6 · Aug 9, 2010

1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 CCW

fordman59

· #7 · Aug 9, 2010

I am in agreement with starting over with installing the distributor.

Edelbrock carbs do not like fuel pressure over 5.5lbs. Even a lot of stock pumps put out more than that. 5lbs is better so check your pressure too.

crittersf1

· #8 · Aug 9, 2010

Pull dizzy and start again. I have a bad habit of being 180 out when I first drop dizzy, so I just change it's position on initial drop.

cheqmate5000

Discussion Starter · #9 · Aug 9, 2010

There are a couple things I will need to check here.

When I put the distributor in, I set the the rotor to point approximately 1 o'clock and I made that the #1 cylinder wire. I then followed the firing order ccw hooking up the plug wires. If you are saying that the #1 cylinder wire should be about 5 or 7 o'clock, wouldn't that make the vacuum canister point into the engine?

The cylinder wires are touching each other, so I will need to correct that.

fordman59

· #10 · Aug 9, 2010

Easy way is, get it to TDC. Drop in the distributor so ya got room to move it around some. Wherever the rotor is pointing is now #1 on the cap. Doesn't matter what o'clock it's at.

fordman59

· #11 · Aug 9, 2010

Easy way is, get it to TDC on the compression stroke. Drop in the distributor so ya got room to move it around some. Wherever the rotor is pointing is now #1 on the cap. Doesn't matter what o'clock it's at.

95lightiningguy

· #12 · Aug 9, 2010

When it is in proper time it doesnt matter where #1 is on the cap. Wires just seem to fit better when you aim the rotor at #1 cylinder.

fordman59

· #13 · Aug 9, 2010

95lightiningguy said:
When it is in proper time it doesnt matter where #1 is on the cap. Wires just seem to fit better when you aim the rotor at #1 cylinder.

Yup. I agree with ya there! Just trying to get him started up. Some caps have #1 marked somewhere around 10 o'clock. That's where I shoot for to get the vac advance in a spot where it can move both ways.

cheqmate5000

Discussion Starter · #14 · Aug 10, 2010

I want to thank everyone for their suggestions. I don't know how it happened (I had a friend verify that we were at TDC) but sure enough the distributor was 180 degrees off.

I really appreciate everyones suggestions and support on this forum.

The engine needs plenty of work but it runs!!

Thanks again. I am sure I will have a ton more questions in the future. When I get some time I will create a post on what I am building.

95lightiningguy

· #15 · Aug 10, 2010

fordman59 said:
Yup. I agree with ya there! Just trying to get him started up. Some caps have #1 marked somewhere around 10 o'clock. That's where I shoot for to get the vac advance in a spot where it can move both ways.

Sorry you must have posted while I was typing.

fordman59

· #16 · Aug 10, 2010

95lightiningguy said:
Sorry you must have posted while I was typing.

No reason to be sorry! We are cool

. I figured as much on the timing of our posts.

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