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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Check spark plug wire resistance, coil resistance, spark quality/color-of course blue/white is better than orange, magnetic pickup resistance, if using a Duraspark module-try swapping it out for a known "good" unit, also check the resistance between the distributor cap's outside coil terminal and the inside center spring loaded "button" that touches the rotor, I've personally seen big ohm reading differences on different manufacturer caps. Hope this helps
Replaced distributor today. One that was in engine had bad side to side clearance. This seems to help a lot. Changed the entire way the engine runs. Now timing is set at 10 BTDC. We will see how it runs in the morning while warming up. That will be the big test.
 

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Replaced distributor today. One that was in engine had bad side to side clearance. This seems to help a lot. Changed the entire way the engine runs. Now timing is set at 10 BTDC. We will see how it runs in the morning while warming up. That will be the big test.
Proper curve set up is critical.

As delivered the curve is awful.






Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Proper curve set up is critical.

As delivered the curve is awful.






Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine
Right now with vacuum advance capped off and only using centrifugal advance at 10 BTDC it's all in at 34 BTDC at 1800 RPM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
It sounds like you’ve made some headway but did you measure for the correct length pushrods during engine assembly?
To be honest.....no. I reused the old pushrods. The engine made no noise before the rebuild. It was a very low mileage engine that was unfortunately overheated buy the original owner and had cylinder damage. That is why it was rebuilt.
 

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Right now with vacuum advance capped off and only using centrifugal advance at 10 BTDC it's all in at 34 BTDC at 1800 RPM.

As an aside the OEM replacement distributors can offer additional mechanical up to 5000 rpm.
You would do well to check it. 1800 rpm is a bit soon for that much mechanical.

Depending on valve stem tip height, block decking and head surface clean up OEM push rods can sometimes be too long.

Assume nothing and check everything.





Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
OK folks Good news! The beast is running great! This issue was a bad distributor. The shaft bushing had way to much play and was causing all kinds of issues. I did not suspect it at first because the unit is new with less than 10K . So after discovering it there were a couple of other units laying around here that I tried. The original problem went away but new ones popped up (excessive pinging and stumbling issues. So I did what i had to do. Used three different distributors to build one really decent one. Now with initial timing set @ 16 BTDC centrifugal timing all in at 3000 RPM (instead of 1800 RPM) and with the vacuum advance all in at 2500 RPM the car runs great. No pinging no trembling and no stumbling! Can burn the tires down to the rims now and runs smooth! I want to take the time now to thanks all of you for your suggestions and help! It's great to have a place to go and get help. Take care and peace, Dan the Ranchero man
 
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