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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a jet boat with the Ford 460 in it. I've owned the same boat before, and just bought this for restoration. From the sticky I have this info:

1. Intended use -- Marine use only

2. Vehicle info (weight/gearing/trans) --vessel weighs 4600Lb loaded, no gears, Berkeley jet drive

3. Fuel desired to use ( racing gas/av gas/E-85/methonal/pumpgas(include octane available)) -- pump gas, prefer 87

4. Parts you already have -- Complete engine minus carb. Marine build with I think the D0VE head casting and I'm certain an Edelbrock dual plane intake manifold. The non-high rise type.

5. Proposed Budget -- I can go up to $500 for the right carb that will work with the intake and provide good take off, mid range

6. Location this may help to find a good machine shop -- DFW metro Texas

I'm concerned about getting too big carb and not being able to generate enough intake air flow, but still be able to make 4500RPM max. I plan to use the boat as it was designed for regular runs around 4000 RPM. Economy use will be on plane at about 2700 RPM. Pump 87 gas preferred.

Do I want the ubiquitous Holly 850 DP? Since I don't have a carb, I'm starting from new. I plan to upgrade the valve train with Melling pushrods, roller rocker kit, and heavy pushrod guides. Also may switch from points to an electronic ign module later.
 

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At this point, I wouldn't worry about the carb (unless it just doesn't have one). Convert to electronic first thing. The valvetrain parts you mentioned won't do anything to increase performance, so if you're thinking that will help get you that additional 500 RPM, it won't. BBF's love CFM, but if the intake or cam or compression is holding you back, an 850 is just jewelry.
Unfortunately, you didn't mention the things that need to be known to help get you a bit more power... cam, pistons, what brand/model intake. What impeller does it have? Boats are real easy to throw performance parts (and money) at, but it's the combination of parts that works or doesn't. Spend a little time trying to determine what you have, THEN come up with a plan to increase performance.
Best of luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
At this point, I wouldn't worry about the carb (unless it just doesn't have one). Convert to electronic first thing. The valvetrain parts you mentioned won't do anything to increase performance, so if you're thinking that will help get you that additional 500 RPM, it won't. BBF's love CFM, but if the intake or cam or compression is holding you back, an 850 is just jewelry.
Unfortunately, you didn't mention the things that need to be known to help get you a bit more power... cam, pistons, what brand/model intake. What impeller does it have? Boats are real easy to throw performance parts (and money) at, but it's the combination of parts that works or doesn't. Spend a little time trying to determine what you have, THEN come up with a plan to increase performance.
Best of luck
Well, yeah it just doesn't have one. Step 4 above: "Complete engine minus carb. ". The Berkeley engine build is very similar to the OMC King Cobra, but I don't think it's an exact match. I plan to leave the engine basically as it came from Berkeley(A impeller). Not looking for performance gain right now. My reason to upgrade the valve train is for reliability. Several people, including me have bent pushrods on the 460, and want to avoid that, as I'll be miles from the marina and don't want to keep working on things.

so back to carb now? Size, type, brand? I think the spec says 335HP at 4400-4500RPM with the A impeller. I will be doing a refurb on the pump as well, because I can feel chips in the leading edge of the blades. If I need a new impeller I'll get one but usually I can gently file out the bumps, replace the wear ring and seals and be good.
 

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Simply upgrading the push rods will solve that issue.

The 335 HP version has flat tops and D3 style heads with bolt down rockers. Marine spec cam as well.
The OEM rockers are fine. It is the flimsy push rods that are problematic especially with any additional spring pressure.
You should verify this.


A 750 carb is more than adequate especially if you are running through transom with logs.

A proper ignition curve will help as well.





Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Simply upgrading the push rods will solve that issue.

The 335 HP version has flat tops and D3 style heads with bolt down rockers. Marine spec cam as well.
The OEM rockers are fine. It is the flimsy push rods that are problematic especially with any additional spring pressure.
You should verify this.


A 750 carb is more than adequate especially if you are running through transom with logs.

A proper ignition curve will help as well.





Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine
Thanks. I found I have D3VE-A2A heads. I've done some research and they have a bulge in the exh port for a smog fitting. The cure for that is to have that ground out, as it aids exh flow pretty well. I am using the logs for exhaust right now, and it will be limitation unless I go to tube headers(not considered at this time). I concur on a 750.

Another research thread I found advised that the cam timing set is not optimal for a boat, and should be changed(has a 'smog' timing set with a few deg retard on it?). If I'm going to do the timing set, I might as well do the cam and lifters. I don't want to make this into a big production, so may just do the timing set, pushrods, and a 750 vac secondaries(economy cruise) Carb.

There's a thread on perf boating about porting the alum logs, and then do a port match on both int and exh for the BBF. Apparently that's a little known trick that will really allow very good flow. That would be for next engine cycle after the summer. Have the heads done, intake and exh opened and port matched, and maybe a cam and lifter swap. We'll see how it goes with the carb first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Minor update. The intake and heads are off. I have a arc in one cyl of iron oxide rust from water ingress. The other cyl were able to clean up well with crosshatch hone. I'm tackling the rust area with 800 grit and some carb cleaner, but it's not doing a lot. I'm going to go down to 600 and see how smooth I can get it. This cyl is always going to have some comp leakage and maybe a bit of oil blow-by. Nothing I can do about it now, until the engine comes out of the boat next Nov.

I purchased a 750 Holley to go on the Edelbrock Performer dual plane manifold. The carb guy is also a boater, and he's happy with this combo for now.
 

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