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Discussion Starter #1
How much Hp do you think my truck can handle safely? I have been dead set on 750hp for my engine build. But I am now starting to try to imagine the whole build as a package. I guess I am trying to realistic and only build what the truck can handle. That way I can get back to having fun rather than up grading parts because I am making too much power!

For reference my truck is a, 1979, F150, super cab, short bed, 2wd. It won't win any beauty awards but it's my "truck". It weighs 4,540lbs with driver and a full tank of gas. Right now it runs 9.4's in the 1/8th. It will probably bust out a 9.0 or 8 next time out with the slicks. When using my calculator I get 268hp but others are closer to 300.


I hope one day down the road to have a real pro built drag car one day. But for now I am using this truck as my learning tool.
 

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now that your thinking of it as a whole package a general rule of the thumb i use is to spend as much from the flywheel to the lugnuts as you do on the motor.if you spend 4k on the motor put 4k in upgrading the drivetrain.convertor,transmission,shifter,driveshaft,3rd memeber w/billet caps,racing axles,9" housing w/brace, shocks,ladder bars,cal-tracs or 4 link. i think if you use this formula you will have a reliable,fun and quick truck....ron
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I was wanting to build a 545, TFS headed, soilid roller then maybe a little nitrous on top of that.

I'm thinking now of maybe a 466 or 514 with budget TFS heads or Iron heads wiht a hyd cam or soild lifters. With this setup I might not have to have another transmission rebuilt or have so much hp that the truck has to have complete roll cage! I also have this nice 3" exhaust that we made that is hooked to 1-3/4" headers.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
slowbrick said:
my old unibody truck ran 8.5 1/8 no problems with slapper bars open rear w/ 2.60s . The faster it got the more cage ,supension upgrades.$$$$
I have a feeling next time out I will run 8.9's with this engine. I am going to try a 850dp, light wheels and slicks, no 15-20mph head wind! It ran 9.4 with a 750 vacume secondary and 235/75R15 tires with a 2.1 60ft. So I see no reason for it not running 8's.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Bump for me!

Come on I'm trying to decide between iron heads and aluminum heads.

On one hand I could have a soild 500hp Iron head engine. (total engine build would be a little less) plus have the cool factor of being iron headed

Or

Aluminum headed TFS 500hp with the room to grow, save about 80 lbs off the front and have cool aluminum heads!
 
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Jones,

Back in the day I had a 78 LWB with a 429 putting out around 450HP. After a few years of running her hard. My cab and my bed were starting to go different directions. There was a little twisting going on.

Nice looking truck by the way..

Glenn
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you, I wish I could make it look better, but I can't find a body shop that wants to work on it! Everyone rather do insurance work and not mess with restoration. I had one body shop tell me it had been years since they done a complete body paint job.

I have kind of lost my direction I am wanting to go with the truck now. I'm thinking of finishing up what little I have left and just leave it like it is. Set back, regroup and see what happens. (In other words, I have ran out of money for now!)
 

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The motor that is in my 96 Mustang used to be in my 79 Bronco. I had ~500 hp and the C6, Dana 60, and Dana 44 never had a problem twisting things up. Actually, I did break a axle once. Then, I upgrade to 35 spline and Detroit.

Have a good day!
Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Maverick said:
psquare75 said:
I prefer the "change things as they break rule". :lol:
That's what I call "testing parts to failure threshold". :lol:
Oh I am testing some parts!

I have a 4,540lb truck with a 2,600 stall, slicks and 28 spline axles with a mini spool. You might could say I am testing my axles!
 

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i would build and install a x-member into your frame if you are concerned,a guy i knew from my old home town use to have a 500hp 460 in his truck+175 shot of juice with no twisting problems.Although it spun hard on the bottle ,no hooking there :lol: :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
One thing is I don't know how much money chassis wise I want to put into this truck. I keep going back in forth in my head, because the truck has some rust issues around the rear super cab windows.

If I can find someone to repair the rust around the windows, I want to see about having a roll cage installed. The truck all ready weighs 4,540lbs with me in it. How much more weight do you think a roll cage would add?

If I do find someone to do the body work I will have fiberglass, hood, fenders and doors installed.

If I knew I could find someone to do the body work I guess I wouldn't be asking this question and would forsure build the most powerfull engine I could.
 

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My old 61 ran 8.5 with a strait axel front ,if you can get the truck to hook it will be plenty quick. I would use some type of ladder bars w/ coil overs out back and install a 8piont roll bar to prevent chassis flex .The weight will come off when you start removing street friendly stuff .i.e. head liners , bench seat ,inner fender wells and install after market disc brakes . Good luck love watching truck haul :D
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok so now I know that my truck right now is making 300fhp and 60ft's 1.90 with a 3.50 rear gear running 8.9's in the 1/8.

So if I add atleast another 200hp what would that probably do for the truck? (60ft and et)

So if I add atleast another 450hp what would that probably do for the truck? (60ft and et)

I have a feeling that I might need to go for the 750hp. I will have to start adding rollcage and would need the extra power to over come the added weight.

I love my bench seat but I want to stay safe.
 

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My quarter jr. program says you need 340 hp to run what you are doing now. :D

If I input 500 hp it gets you down to 8.00 in the 1/8 and 12.50 at the quarter.

750 hp gets you 7.2 @ 100mph at the 1/8 and 11.15 @ 125 for the 1/4 :shock:

Assuming the truck stays the same weight.

If you strip all the street stuff out and add the roll bar you will probably end up slightly lighter. If you want to maintain the creature comforts your only hope is to pay up for the lightweight body parts etc.

dkp
 
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