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I would cut the section out and replace it with a section of 2X3 .083
Deterioration is evident of that subframe and you would only be putting off the inevitable by patching it in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Crap - I thought it was more of a design flaw with the lower control arm mount not going all the way to the outside of the frame rail and the fact the lower control arm mounts are not reinforced with a subframe. The existing 0.083 isn't real strong being pushed. I was hoping to run an 1/8 plate on the outside of the frame rail and then add an additional lower control arm mount on the outside to remove the load from the bottom of the rail.

Th e problem probably has a lot to due with the car's previous owner running mid-5's with the wheels-up for the first 60 ft.

Guess it is decision time.
 

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Hell I would grind the crap out of it then weld it........then grind that down and make a patch that fit that area and weld that up too.....When I had my Maverick one of the shock towers started tearing open...i welded that up and never had a problem again............even though my brother drilled a tree with it later on......good thing it only had a 351C in it and I never got the 460 in there........lol......D
 

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It could be hard to keep the bracket/frame joints from re-cracking again without some bracing. This is because the bracket's length is so long that it has a bunch of push/pull rotating leverage fighting the weld joint area.

Some kind of a crossmember would go a long way toward supporting the bottoms of the brackets, if the oil pan design will allow it.

Are the A-arm's front brackets cracking in the same spot as the rear brackets are in the pic?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wow, I am slow about working on this.

This problem is a lot worse than I originally thought. It appears to be the result of too many wheelies form the previous owner and my habit of tying a car down too tight.

The frame rail is bent, twisted and torn on the driver side - to the point that the lower control arm mounts were moved about 1/2" out and the 2x3x0.080 wall box rail was severely bent.

Bottom of frame rail - note tear, bend and twist


Top of rail/upper A-arm mount - note tear


I reinforced the passenger rail and boxed it


And also boxed the back side of the lower control arm mount - sloppily with the first welds using my new Miller 210


I fabbed up some tools out of an old bumperjack and some 3/8 plate to twist the driver side frame back in place and successfully located the lower control arm mount



The real root of the problem is the lack of a crossmember allowing the frame rails to get twisted by the forces on the lower control arms. I am in the process of making a 1x2x1/8wall crossmember to hold the lower control arm mounts at a constant distance apart which should stop the frame twist.
 

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Don't feel so bad. You work at the same pace I do! I think that crosmember will solve it. usually that's all it's there for on a-arm car anyway.

Good luck
 

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It's amazing how effective home-brewed tools can be. If you find you have to replace an old cage dashbar with a new one (to re-cert the cage) a simple bottle jack & a length of 4x4 wood post can be a big help. If your careful it will flex the front windshield cage bars apart just enough to slip the new fish-mouthed dashbar in place & still have a tight weld joint.
 
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