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Discussion Starter #1
Any one care to share, or give advice , for setting up a 10.5 x28 Ladder bar back half car. What to look for on a set of scales . car has double adj. shocks rear and 90-10 Lake woods on front ( to be changed later)

How much bite in the right rear, or set it up neutral ? Cast iron heads on a 514 3000 lb. 86 notch back. Also ladder bars are a ladderlink set.

If more info is needed let me know.........


:roll: Blake
 
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Blake , I would start in the middle or bottom hole( 3 hole bracket??) Raising it will hit the tires harder. I would either set the preload to neutral or start with a half a flat of positive preload (lengthen bar to take weight off of RR tire to keep from driving left). I would start with the shocks at or near full loose to start with & go from there. DILLIGAS Dave hopefully will chime in on this. On my 67 , I had ladder bars with 14X32's. I had the ladder bars neutral & in the lower hole. My car drove left but instead of preloading the bar , I tightened the RR shock to basically preload the rear. Today I would adjust it with the ladder bar. It worked though. I started with the shocks at full loose(Koni DA's) & worked my way up from there. Hope this helps & looking forward to meeting you next week. We will be going to KY via I40 to Nashville & then I65 north. How far to Owensboro from Nashville??? :D
 

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Is it a true 10.5 wide slick, or a wider 10.5 W slick? Smaller slicks can be a challenge on any car that has the kind of low end power/torque that a big motor can generate regardless of rear suspension type used. Less slick height & width reduces the size of the contact patch sitting on the track surface. And less sidewall to wind-up reduces the slicks ability to absorb the shock load. Some people hit a smaller slick real hard thinking that a harder hit ALWAYS makes for a harder hook. But that's not always the case every time, especially if a soft sidewall slick is used.

I agree with Chris, either start in the bottom (least violent) front ladder bar mounting hole, or choose a middle(ish) hole (depending on a 3, 4, 5, or 6 hole bracket). If you choose a middle ladder bar hole, a good starting point for the shocks is set them around the middle of their dampening range. Extension (rebound) half way to one click tighter than half, and compression (bump) half way to one click looser than half.

Preload settings can be a flip a coin deal depending on bar length, wheel base, amount of usable power at launch, front/rear weight bias, driver weight, etc, etc. Neutral preload is a good usable starting point because it will tell you which way the preload needs to go with the first rolling burnout & launch on the car....just be ready to use the steering wheel if neutral is a long way from what the car really needs.

There is no one "always works best every time, every car" setup because every car is different and there are many ways to get a car to hook. That's why testing can be a blast, or a pain in the A$$!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Chris, Dave,

Thanks guys, that is the answers I wanted to here, I agree there is not an exact set up for every one, I just needed a starting point or base line .

I back halved a small block car for a friend of mine, same rear as mine, that runs 6.20s and put 25 lb of bite in the right rear to get it to go straight. but his is an aluminum headed engine and has a lot less nose weight than mine,

Just had me a little nervous as where to start with mine . I didn't want to be way out in left field and take two or the trips to the track to get it sorted out .

Dave you asked about the tire , it will have 28x10.5 slickes or 28 12.50 ET streets .

Hoped to get some low 1.30 60 ft times out of it.

The last car I had this engine in was a stock rear end car with all factory parts with a air bag in the right rear. You never knew what direction it was going to go when you left the line, so Im' used to holding on to the steering wheel :shock:



Thank you guy,s again for the help, and can't wait to meet you to Chris , Dave if you go to the bash , try to look me up... I will do the same.




Blake
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Damon,

Just got off the phone with the dyno shop and confirmed my dyno time, so I'm loading up tonight and headed out eeearly in the morning.

I will probably stop at the local track on the way back and make a few passes . I will only get two or three because bracket night is Saturday night.

Hopefully the chassis will be close, got some good help from several forum members to get me in the ball park.

It went straight when I launched out of the shop last night 8) .
3500 rpm on the trans brake.

Later, Blake
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks, Damon I will.

David, we live close enough together that we should meet at a track half way and run our junk sometime....... :D



Blake
 

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You might also think about a stiffer sidewall slick if it is available in your size/brand slick. I think Duane is trying a stiffer sidewall M/T this year with his bracket No-E/Pro setup that is in the 28x10-10.5 range. I don't remember if he has done much testing with them yet, so I don't know if they were more consistent or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Dave,

I will buy whatever I need to buy. The tires I have now are ready to replace, I have the et streets on to bring to the bash,

Are you going to the bash?
 

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IDT-572 said:
Are you going to the bash?
I doubt it, been ignoring a guy's car too much & I need to get something done on it to keep him happy (yes I'm lazy :oops: ).
 

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Phantasea466 said:
He will understand :wink: Bring him with you if you have to :p
Yea, right....chebby guy's only understand super chebby events :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Dave

Bring him on, he can be the next convert, Most of the chevy boys I know just haven't been exposed yet . But it will take about 3-4 times , because most have been brain washed to think only a chevy can make any power :roll: They see it but still just can't believe it........



Blake
 
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D.I.L.L.I.G.A.S. said:
IDT-572 said:
Are you going to the bash?
I doubt it, been ignoring a guy's car too much & I need to get something done on it to keep him happy (yes I'm lazy :oops: ).
I bet if it was a VPRC chassis kit for a 70 Stang with one of the new McAmis 70 fastback fiberglass bodies, you might would have a little more attention to give. :roll: Am I right Dave???? :lol:
 
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ProF100 said:
I can't wait to see it Blake. I hope to bring my pile of junk up there so if anyone needs spare parts, I will have them.
David, since Damon put dibs on the heads & intake, I would like dibs on the 4.75" crank that you have.... :lol: :lol:
 
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