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It seems that you are not grasping the basics of a hydraulic clutch actuation system, so it is confusing to design a new one. You can push or pull on either end, but most commonly a standard master on the firewall (pedal pushes rod into MC), and a push or pull slave for the fork. I said there are 101 ways to get it done, and here is another example from 2005 on a Cleveland, mounting a push slave on the block/bellhousing to push the clutch fork rearward:
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Once you envision how you are going to configure the two ends of the system, you can calculate the bore sizes to achieve the correct throws. A random example can be needing 1.3" throw at the clutch fork (max), with 1" at the MC (max), using a 6:1 pedal ratio (your foot moving 6" stroke, max). Measure whatever your numbers are.

I made a spreadsheet years ago to calculate this bore-vs-stroke stuff, and it is linked here. Draw your system out on paper to keep it straight in your head, write the required measurements on it (as above), and calculate the sizes and types you need to match those numbers. Go shopping. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
It seems that you are not grasping the basics of a hydraulic clutch actuation system, so it is confusing to design a new one. You can push or pull on either end, but most commonly a standard master on the firewall (pedal pushes rod into MC), and a push or pull slave for the fork. I said there are 101 ways to get it done, and here is another example from 2005 on a Cleveland, mounting a push slave on the block/bellhousing to push the clutch fork rearward:
View attachment 94546
Once you envision how you are going to configure the two ends of the system, you can calculate the bore sizes to achieve the correct throws. A random example can be needing 1.3" throw at the clutch fork (max), with 1" at the MC (max), using a 6:1 pedal ratio (your foot moving 6" stroke, max). Measure whatever your numbers are.

I made a spreadsheet years ago to calculate this bore-vs-stroke stuff, and it is linked here. Draw your system out on paper to keep it straight in your head, write the required measurements on it (as above), and calculate the sizes and types you need to match those numbers. Go shopping. :cool:
It seems that you are not grasping the basics of a hydraulic clutch actuation system, so it is confusing to design a new one. You can push or pull on either end, but most commonly a standard master on the firewall (pedal pushes rod into MC), and a push or pull slave for the fork. I said there are 101 ways to get it done, and here is another example from 2005 on a Cleveland, mounting a push slave on the block/bellhousing to push the clutch fork rearward:
View attachment 94546
Once you envision how you are going to configure the two ends of the system, you can calculate the bore sizes to achieve the correct throws. A random example can be needing 1.3" throw at the clutch fork (max), with 1" at the MC (max), using a 6:1 pedal ratio (your foot moving 6" stroke, max). Measure whatever your numbers are.

I made a spreadsheet years ago to calculate this bore-vs-stroke stuff, and it is linked here. Draw your system out on paper to keep it straight in your head, write the required measurements on it (as above), and calculate the sizes and types you need to match those numbers. Go shopping. :cool:
MY clutch cable pulls in as the pedal is pushed, not out as do brakes.
have not found a f wall mounted mc that pulls in.
talked to summit and others, no help.

my clutch fork moves back toward the rear so i need a pull type slave.
those are fixed and i cant change them...
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
MY clutch cable pulls in as the pedal is pushed, not out as do brakes.
have not found a f wall mounted mc that pulls in.
talked to summit and others, no help.

my clutch fork moves back toward the rear so i need a pull type slave.
those are fixed and i cant change them...
so i know xactly what needs to happen , but not sure how to get it done.
i built a bracket to mount a long cable that went out,down, around behind the fork and back to the fork to pull back.
.'that dont work...
 

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You have to mount the master cylinder push rod below the pivot point of the clutch pedal, and then your clutch pedal will be pushing the rod into the master cylinder bore.or get with a company that sells the required bracketry. Modern drive line sells something I'm sure of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
You have to mount the master cylinder push rod below the pivot point of the clutch pedal, and then your clutch pedal will be pushing the rod into the master cylinder bore.or get with a company that sells the required bracketry. Modern drive line sells something I'm sure of it.
80 mustang, i can see the pivot but not touch it.
pretty crowded up/in there.
to hook up a cable i close my eyes and go by feel, even the cotter pin !!! but i did it in a loosing attempt with a cable...no room in front of firewall huh...that would be below the hole for a regular cable.
 

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Please realize that I do not know if this will fix your situation and understand that I did not evaluate this as a solution for your particular problem. I just posted the link so you could see the associated bracketry and whatnot that modern drive line offers up as a potential solution.

Another option is to ditch the factory fox clutch and brake pedals and go with a quality aftermarket setup from, say, wilwood for example.

Third option, and my personal favorite, get creative, and build it yourself. Look at some pictures of what other have done, crack a cold one and study your options. Decide if you'll modify the existing pedal, or fabricate new. Then get to work. As PSIG has mentioned, math is your friend, geometry + pascals law will dictate what needs to happen.

Perhaps the best piece of advise given here, no surprise it's from PSIG, is to map this out on paper.
 

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MY clutch cable pulls in as the pedal is pushed, not out as do brakes.
Correct. So either a pull-master cylinder, or convert to push as I and @ArnoldRC described.
my clutch fork moves back toward the rear so i need a pull type slave.
Yes, or a front-mounted push-slave cylinder as in the photo above.

You can convert the pedal from pull to push. You can also convert the fork from push to pull (typically $20 each for the end-pivot fork and ball pivot), but the trans has to come out for that. Although, it does give the option to keep your existing cable setup, using only one 180° bend to the fork like factory setups use. Again, 101 ways to do it. Pick your path, good luck, and let us know which way you went!
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Correct. So either a pull-master cylinder, or convert to push as I and @ArnoldRC described.
Yes, or a front-mounted push-slave cylinder as in the photo above.

You can convert the pedal from pull to push. You can also convert the fork from push to pull (typically $20 each for the end-pivot fork and ball pivot), but the trans has to come out for that. Although, it does give the option to keep your existing cable setup, using only one 180° bend to the fork like factory setups use. Again, 101 ways to do it. Pick your path, good luck, and let us know which way you went!
what is stunning and amazing is that ive been searching for over a year for this info. made calls to summit, all big catalog guys, tech support, NOBODY HAD ANY ANSWERS, COULDNT FIND ANY INFO..Iv discussed it here and in other forums and got nowhere
so i designed a support bracket for my 2x 180 bend cable approach, the only way i
could try to do the back pull clutch,...
AND THIS STUFF HAS BEEN AROUND FOR A LONG TIME!!
its like it was a secret..

i need a break to refresh and start over...spent big time and money...
thanks, ill be back later...
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
here is an early pix of my rear cable approach. the long cable that dont work.
now, ill be looking atreversing the cable and adding a belcrankto the right /rear of that cable end connection.
those are not my now headers, skip them.
headers may have a problem with a b crank...later

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
my headers now end in front of the fork. i have planned on a short ,ez removable section of pipe for access to clutch stuff.looking now it seems possible to add the belcrank to the right of the cable mount and move the cable in close to tran.

im a little enthused about this now...explore 2morrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
my headers now end in front of the fork. i have planned on a short ,ez removable section of pipe for access to clutch stuff.looking now it seems possible to add the belcrank to the right of the cable mount and move the cable in close to tran.

im a little enthused about this now...explore 2morrow.
if you're married to the cable, make it pull a bellcrank the attaches to the clutch fork.
Bell cranks are easy to make and can be made to provide mechanical advantage. Just sayin'.

THANKS
ArnoldRC ...YOUR WORDS
your words were the trigger!!! i made plans last night and worked noon toll 9 pm nonstop today
reworking my bracket setup, added some scrap metal and got a smooth functioning cable setup !!!THANK YOU.
over a year of searching, phone calls to the "x" perts with zero progress i finally got the fix for what was killing my project !! the biggest blockade...
ill tie things out 2morrow then on to morestuff...
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
if you're married to the cable, make it pull a bellcrank the attaches to the clutch fork.
Bell cranks are easy to make and can be made to provide mechanical advantage. Just sayin'.

THANKS
ArnoldRC ...YOUR WORDS
your words were the trigger!!! i made plans last night and worked noon toll 9 pm nonstop today
reworking my bracket setup, added some scrap metal and got a smooth functioning cable setup !!!THANK YOU.
over a year of searching, phone calls to the "x" perts with zero progress i finally got the fix for what was killing my project !! the biggest blockade...
ill tie things out 2morrow then on to more stuff...
oh, i made the belcrank out of the only piece of angle stock i had...no trip to the store, all scrap metal...
 
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