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Discussion Starter #1
Well I've sold a few engine blocks and I'll be selling a few more items soon so it's time to order some much needed parts.

I'll be ordering a new set of Hoosier 26" front runners to replace my current 25" 'street type' tires.

My car currently has Moroso front springs, cut 1.25 coils out, with Lakewood 90/10 struts. I'm going to get a coil over conversion for the front and maybe in a few years I may spring for a tube K-member. IMO the coil over front will make my 60' times more consistent and a little quicker. I have the Granatelli Drag kit on my Summit wish list along with the hoosier tires. However I'm leaning towards getting the PA racing setup that some of you guys have recommended to me.

I currently have AVO rear coil over shocks that are at least 9 years old. I think it's time for new rear shocks, what do you think :?:

I checked prices on Summit and they are EXPENSIVE!! What kind of rear coil over shocks are good for the money? It's the shorter shocks with 2.5" springs, your typical coil over shock setup for a 4-link or ladder bar car.

Just thinking out loud :roll: and appreciate any input.

Dyno day is this Saturday!!



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rear coil overs

Damon, I don't know what you consider "EXPENSIVE". Plus don't waste your money & buy a single adjustable shock. Get external double adjustable. Here are three that I would recommend.

1) Strange - cheaper than Koni's. PLus both adjustments are at the bottom so the shaft is solid(I think I am right on this). Clearly this is the best bang for the buck.

2) Koni- You know their reputation. I ran them on my last car with no problems. A litttle more expensive than Strange.

3) Santhuff- These are the "mac daddies" of coil overs. They are also the most expensive. About $1000 a pair. Has a huge 7/8" dia. shaft . You won't ever hurt or wear these out. These are on my current car.

One last thing, I would recommend using a shock with the longest stroke available. I believe this is 7". It makes getting your big tires off alot easier on low slung cars. One last thing. When it comes to shocks, I truely believe you get what you pay for. They are one item I believe in getting the best because they are a huge part of a chassis working correctly. Just my 2 cents. Hope it helps. :D
 

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I think a set of those cheap gas charged econo coil over style shocks is what you need on that ole heap!!! LOL.

I agree with TopSportsman916 100%. Even though I put my foot in my mouth and bought Jerry Smith's (jsracingbbf) old QA1's from him last year.

But hey, I'm on a tight budget......

One thing to consider, and it was the biggest reason I bought the used ones from Jerry, is that those AVO's are rebuildable.

IMO I'd try to find the contact info for Hal Lee. He's the guy who first produced the HAL and AVO shocks before he was bought by QA1. Hal worked for QA1 for awhile but now he's back in business. He will rebuild/revalve just about any coil over. Tell him about your car and he'll tailor it to your application.

He's located in Florida (I think) and has some good prices from what I heard. This might be the way to go instead of buying some double adjustables. Might be cheaper too, or maybe he can convert them to double adj for you.
 

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Double adjustable.

Agree with TopSportsman916 go with a double adjustable shock, especially if you ever plan on using wheelie bars.

Santhuff's are great to work with, the valving is really responsive. As mentioned above Koni's are next in line. I havent worked with the Strange doubles yet, but have heard only good about them.
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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My aproach as risky as it is:

I have ran my car tall in the rear; with the stock 2.3L springs/shocks in the front and ladder bars with Olds shocks and 2.3L springs/control arms in the back. So far so good with an estimated 480hp, top run at 11.39.

The car needs lowered in the rear. One way or another it will be 1" lower at the rear axle area. I may have to change the ladders, or find a way they can be repositioned.

So now I am going 700hp + or - 25 hp. Will suspension need changed? Most likely but I want to see what it needs before I change it. Don't fix something that is not broken. Wait and see where you need changes, you may need to spend more or less than you thought. No sense in doing it now and find out you still need to alter it more.

Unless of cours you have money to spare.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
jpierce55 said:
My aproach as risky as it is:

I have ran my car tall in the rear; with the stock 2.3L springs/shocks in the front and ladder bars with Olds shocks and 2.3L springs/control arms in the back. So far so good with an estimated 480hp, top run at 11.39.

The car needs lowered in the rear. One way or another it will be 1" lower at the rear axle area. I may have to change the ladders, or find a way they can be repositioned.

So now I am going 700hp + or - 25 hp. Will suspension need changed? Most likely but I want to see what it needs before I change it. Don't fix something that is not broken. Wait and see where you need changes, you may need to spend more or less than you thought. No sense in doing it now and find out you still need to alter it more.

Unless of cours you have money to spare.
My sentiments exactly. I'll most likely run it as is for now but I WILL have to get new front tires however I do need the front conversion at a minimum.

Waterslinger I may take you up on the QA1 shocks. If I were outlaw racing then I'd want the BEST but for my little 'ole bracket car "heap" I don't need the BEST :lol: 8)
Yeah, that's aimed at you John :wink:

Later guys and THANKS!



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Discussion Starter #10

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I am running QA1 coilovers on the rear of the ladderbar Fairlane and love them. 32 17.5 x 15 tires with 4.56 gears. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ProStreetFairlane said:
I am running QA1 coilovers on the rear of the ladderbar Fairlane and love them. 32 17.5 x 15 tires with 4.56 gears. :D
I've been looking at the QA1 shocks. I'll most likely go this direction. The shocks I have on my car now are OLD and non adjustable.

So what's the best way to check my spring rate? Compress it one inch and see how much weight it takes :?: I wonder if I could bring it into the lab and use the United Tensile Tester to measure the force required to compress it one inch :?: Good Idea :wink: I'll have to convert it from Kgf to Lbf.

I'm going to try and find someone locally that has some scales so I can weigh the car front and back OR 4 corners.



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Damon, scaling the car is the best way. I had to guess on mine but I got lucky & picked the right springs. I started with 300# & 110# springs. I now have 250# & 95# on the car now. The car is now at the exact ride height & the spring seats are mid way of the coil over threads. I still want to scale my car. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Chris,


How much does your car weigh? I know we are comparing apples to oranges but...........

There's a round track racer locally that has the scales. I'm thinking that I need to scale the car AFTER I install the front coil overs. Then I can see if the rear springs I already have are OK and then order new rear coil over shocks? And maybe new rear springs.

My car weighs 3000 to 3100# I'm guesstimating based on the last time I weighed the car it was 2999# with driver. Then I was running an Iron headed 428 with a C6 transmission and one battery. 1700# front and 1300# rear.

NOW I'm running the aluminum headed 466 and C4 tranny with 2 batteries.



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about .4 sec. quicker. I want to go to an aluminum block so bad I can taste it. That would be a good 125-150 lbs off of the front end. That would get me down to a fighting weight of 2450!!!! Mabe one day..... :D
 
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