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Discussion Starter #1
Several years ago, I purchased a new Broader C6 from a member who at the time was a prominent member here on the site. This transmission was new and still in shrink wrap. The transmission is a "1000" Hp unit, supposedly, that I intended to use as a "race" project . At the time, I had three different cars I was "putting together", so time sort of slipped away. Anyway, I am now working that project: a 1973 Mach 1 that has a 706HP/736Tq motor that I intend to use as a "crusier" instead of a dedicated "racer." With that in mind, I am trying to use the stock Ford shifter.

The problem is the transmission has the full manual valve body which negates the modulator. Since the car is no longer going to be used as a dedicated racer, I would rather the transmission downshift automatically, at times. Since I have had to drop the valve body to install the shifter lever (the broader came without the lever), I am looking at just changing the full manual vale body for a street/strip (or automatic) valve body.

I paced a call into Jay at Broader (on yesterday) to try and determine what would be involved in the switch but did not receive a callback, yet. I realize his is a family business and he probably was busy and haven't been able to get back with me but my "OCD" is kicking in and got to thinking that maybe someone here on the site might have made this switch or can tell me what is involved.

I readily admit I know very little about transmissions and the folks at the restoration shop where I have the car are also pretty clueless about this particular change. The mechanic also wanted to know what Broader uses to seal the modulator hole to have some idea as to how to remove the "sealant" once we install the new valve body.

I would really appreciate any advice.

BT
 

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SELL THE MAN ONE, and buy a std automatic one.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, Rich, I intend to remove it (and probably donate to someone who might want to use it) but was wondering what (if anything else) is involved in making the switch. The main question from the mechanic is "are there any possible issues in just drilling out the core that is used to block off the area where the modulator goes?"

It should be noted that while this is a full manual valve body, I am not sure as to the pattern.

BT
 

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Yes, Rich, I intend to remove it (and probably donate to someone who might want to use it) but was wondering what (if anything else) is involved in making the switch. The main question from the mechanic is "are there any possible issues in just drilling out the core that is used to block off the area where the modulator goes?"

It should be noted that while this is a full manual valve body, I am not sure as to the pattern.

BT

see now thats the prob, some builders make changes to the case you might not know about
-Rich
 

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Well , you'd really need to talk with Jay to see exactly how he builds or someone that has been inside that particular trans he builds.

Usually when converting to full manual some components are deleted , As you know , no modulator, the governor assembly etc.

If that is the case which i suspect is how he'd of built it , it is simply not possible to convert to an automatic valvebody.

Now at the power level , i'd say stick with that trans, set up your shifter to suit.

The issue with running bigger HP with auto shifts they have to be set up absolutely spot on . Pressure must rise to suit HP. Not a lot of shops would want to , or prob don't even know how to set up a auto valvebody correctly
 

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Don't know about your particular shifter issues, but a manual valve body on the street works fine. I actually prefer it. Of course a stock shifter that has a less than positive engagement might be problematic, but I've seen some people modify them to be more of a gated action.


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Discussion Starter #7
THANKS Guys for your input...believe me I truly value the comments from all three of you.

Right now, I intend to put my "OCD" on hold until I touch base with Jay to get his thoughts. Hopefully, I will be able to reach him on tomorrow.

As Carl noted regarding his "rathers", I too, personally prefer controlling the shifts manually but the First Lady or one of the "kids" (while they are home from college or here for a visit) might decide to drive it. I was trying to leave the interior of the '73 Mach 1 as originally looking as possible; hence the reason for the stock shifter. At this point, I have put quite a bit of time and treasure in acquiring all the transmission linkage (didn't realize how much of those individual parts were so difficult to find for a C6) but if there are too many issues with the change, I might just go to an aftermarket shifter.

As an aside, I actually have an automatic valve body in the C6 (Broader internals) for the 472 that I have in the '73 Grande. When I had that one built, I gathered 2 pieces of each linkage part to try and anticipate the requirements for the C6 that is behind the 545 that has gone into the '73 Mach 1. The original transmission in the 472 was a column shift, so I had to change the shifter arm on that one as the arm was pointing in the wrong direction. For this Broader unit, there was no shifter arm at all as it was built in anticipation of use with an after market shifter, according to Jay. I didn't know this until we installed the motor and transmission into the car and started to hook everything up.

Anyway, like everything else in modifying these cars, this has been a learning experience for me, so again THANKS for y'all inputs.

~BT
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I received a call back from Jay today advising (as y'all surmised) that there were a number of parts that are taken out of the case (as a matter of routine) when they install a full manual valve body in their race transmissions.

Since the motor and transmission are already in the car, I think I will "bite the bullet" and go ahead and used the transmission as is, at least for the near term.

I would, however, still like to try and use the stock shifter.

Carl, do you recall any of the specifics relative to modifying the stock shifter utilizing a "gated" approach as you mentioned in your post?

THANKS again for y'all's inputs.



~BT
 

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Nothing stopping you using the factory shifter. I much prefer them over mucking about with cable shifters.

If it is forward pattern you really need do nothing. What I have done is to weld the detents in the shifter between N + R so as the button has to be pushed right in to get to reverse, like a type of lock-out.

If it is reverse pattern valvebody, usually D will be 1, the factory shifter has a ramp to pull back for 2nd without depressing the button, then press the button to go to 3rd
 

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Just curious what are the reasons to go full manual?

Cheers, Bob
For me, it's all about control. I run a ratchet shifter, so it's easy to bang gears downshifting into a corner, or coming out, a lot like a sequential gearbox setup in a rally car.


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Just curious what are the reasons to go full manual?

Cheers, Bob
Once motors start being built , cams etc , vacuum signal to operate a modulator can be tricky. Then with modulated line pressure ( pressure senses the engine load by vacuum to raise line pressure) you need to ensure line pressure rise is good and rises fast enough to cope with power.

Going full manual gives control as Carl said plus a constant line pressure is preferred.
 
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