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Discussion Starter #1
Getting ready to fire up my 466, so trying to eliminate issues that can have detrimental effect on HFT cam break-in, like coolant leak.
I pressured the coolant system empty (dry) with compressed air. The cap is a nature regulator, but started with 5 psi. it leaked out within a few minutes. I then used a spray bottle with soapy water to find leak, and saw bubbles all the way around water pump... Hmm.
This motor has a new timing cover, backing plate and water pump. Block was hot tanked/bored. I used hi tack gasket glue on gaskets, same as I have done for decades on these type of motors. Never had a leak.

I snugged up bolts but leak persists. I like to invent problems to delay progress, but am hesitant to tear it apart, as I would re-assemble the same. Do the gaskets need to be wet to swell and seal?

Should I fill with water, remove air pockets and pressurize at rad cap?
 

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Getting ready to fire up my 466, so trying to eliminate issues that can have detrimental effect on HFT cam break-in, like coolant leak.
I pressured the coolant system empty (dry) with compressed air. The cap is a nature regulator, but started with 5 psi. it leaked out within a few minutes. I then used a spray bottle with soapy water to find leak, and saw bubbles all the way around water pump... Hmm.
This motor has a new timing cover, backing plate and water pump. Block was hot tanked/bored. I used hi tack gasket glue on gaskets, same as I have done for decades on these type of motors. Never had a leak.

I snugged up bolts but leak persists. I like to invent problems to delay progress, but am hesitant to tear it apart, as I would re-assemble the same. Do the gaskets need to be wet to swell and seal?

Should I fill with water, remove air pockets and pressurize at rad cap?
Pretty slick idea................
 

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Something isn't flat, either the cover or the water pump, bad gasket etc... It's not likely to get better with running.
 

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I agree; something likely is not straight, planar, uniform, etc. You'll likely have to disassemble to find the problem.
 

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Make sure that none of those bolts are lacking thread length or bottoming out. Might want to use RTV instead of hi tack.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for feedback.

If the new timing cover or new water pump wasn't flat I would expect it to leak in one area or another where gasket thickness become insufficient, but It leaked all around before I snugged the bolts. Maybe I didn't use enough sealant, I usually use too much....hmmm

All bolts are proper length, I used torque wrench initially. Bolts into jackets have sealer on threads.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well turns out I'm just incompetent, and put gasket glue on 10 of 12 surfaces and it was leaking on the 2 I neglected. Can see were gasket came off clean on one side of backing plate and the other adhered and separated.


I left room between cross member and oil pan to allow this job but wasn't planning on doing it so soon...
Although gasket adhered enough to separate on disassembly, I can see that glue was not applied to block surface itself. There was only one small leak at block but didn't want to risk one on crankcase side that I wouldn't be able to see.

I don't know how much glue I need, but I know how much I'm going to use next time.

 

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This stuff has always worked well if I’m just trying to hold a gasket in place.

 

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This stuff has always worked well if I’m just trying to hold a gasket in place.


DO NOT USE THE OIL SLINGER WITH A DOUBLE ROLLER TIMING SET !!!!!
The chain will chew it up.

SJ
used 2b RHP
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The GASKET is supposed to do the sealing with out any extra goo...........

Richard
Yes by definition it should.... but not in this case. Wonder if Ford used any goo in production?

This stuff has always worked well if I’m just trying to hold a gasket in place.

That is what I used and still had problems. Must be allied to both sides of everything, else it leaks.

DO NOT USE THE OIL SLINGER WITH A DOUBLE ROLLER TIMING SET !!!!!
The chain will chew it up.

SJ
used 2b RHP
Good to know now, thanks for sharing your knowledge. Will remove.
Now that you bring it up I think I read the same in a thread here long ago, then forgot.
So I guess it needed to come apart anyhow....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Removed the slinger and got the motor back together. Put Hi-tack on all 12 surfaces. No leaks now. Also put in heater fittings that needed to go in before the bypass tube.
 
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