[1991F150]

Hey guys,

In the process of building up the 460.
Dropped off parts at machine shop for all the usual operations.
One of which was crank grind and polish to ten under.
The shop I used outsources the crank work, they called and said that his crank guy could swap it out for one they have on the shelve to save me time (at that time it was a timing issue). I agreed as along as I got another 3Y crank back.
Picked up the parts Saturday and the crank I received was not a 3Y.
The crank looks correct as you see in the pics, oil holes are ground even, but the casting marks are odd.
They are 1C and 1D with a WSM and what appears to be a U as well but its very light. Also a possible 84 date stamp? Stroke appears right on at 3.85"

So my question to the forum is did I get upgraded, downgraded or.....?
I have searched high and low online to decipher those marks, and I have all the good books as well (sa design, chiltons), nothing on this site that I could find.
Now that time is not an issue should I be asking for my crank back just to be safe?

Any help is appreciated in identifying the crank.

More pictures after this post....

Motor was out of a 79 Ford truck,
1979 D9TE Block - .60 over
D3VE-A2A heads
D6VE-AA Rods
Did have a 3Y crank

SMOKYNSB

 

[1991F150]

More Pics of Crank in question, I forgot to mention there is a pic in this post showing marks on a weight. Looks like it was beat with a hammer? Does that help make a decision one way or another? Thanks again guys for any help.
SMOKYNSB

 

[blown473]

crank condition

Looking at the crank you received, I would give it back. Theres rust in the crank throw holes, it does not look very clean, and you never pound on a crank like the marks on it. Thats usually a sign someone pulled apart a motor that was rusted to a frozen condition, and had to pound the counter weight to turn the crank. That crank looks like its been sitting a very long time, not a fresh grind, chances are its been rejected by other people too. You should check aftermarket crank prices, they are often almost as cheap as machining your old high mileage unit. Think of service cycles and how hard you plan to run it.

 

[Paul Kane]

In the process of building up the 460. Dropped off parts at machine shop for all the usual operations. One of which was crank grind and polish to ten under. The shop I used...called and said that his crank guy could swap it out for one they have... I agreed as along as I got another 3Y crank back. Picked up the parts Saturday and the crank I received was not a 3Y.

SMOKYNSB

The crank you received back is indeed a 3Y and is also 10/10. Assuming is has been given a clean bill of health (measures out, passed mag, etc) then I don't see anyting wrong with it for 90% of the builds where it might be used.

Paul

 

[White Lightning]

I agree, take it back.
Rob

 

[1991F150]

Seems we have 2 for taking it back and one for keeping it for mild builds?
Appreciate the help on identifying that it is indeed a 3Y.
Anyone else care to comment?

 

[Paul Kane]

I didn't say "mild" builds, I said "90%" of the builds. Assuming is has a clean bill of health, I see no reason why it can't support 800 horsepower, for example....although I might feather in the dings at that upper hp level (depends on the peak rpm).

How much horspower are you targeting? What is the intended peak rpm? If it ain't higher than the horsepower level than I stated, then the crankshaft ought to hold up fine.

How it "looks" means nothing whatsoever. Would you rather have a mirror-polished crankshaft that is cracked and has an out-of-round journal? Or a reconditioned OEM crank with a clean bill of health?

 

[1991F150]

Hey Paul,

You are correct I miss fired and put mild builds instead of what you wrote, apologies there.
And I agree on the most part, I am not worried about the rust, wire brush that. Plus the oil holes are already widened or ground and look clean as deep as I can see.
Horsepower target is 500, its on off road green sticker truck.
Right now deciding on reworking the D3VE's to reach that level or just buying the Ford Racing Heads. In Santa Barbara there are not a lot of machine shop options for head porting and polish(if any maybe in Ventura) so may just be best to go the bolt on route.
Getting new pistons as well:
Kieth Black Silv-O-Lite Hyperpuetic 1143H-60
So the short block should be fine with that crank, my rods and those pistons, obvious bolt upgrades and a cam with 262/270 or around there.
Thanks again for you input, this forum and the contributors are a genuine help to occasional builder.
SMOKYNSB

 

[MrScharfenberger]

For that power level it is really hard to beat the Eagle cast crank for $245. Make sure you open up those ring gaps on those Keith Black pistions.

If your's did't have hammer marks I'd take it back. Could very well be nothing wrong with it but pulling, building and reinserting a motor is a lot of work. I'm not saying that this one won't work. It very well could. But with the rust and hammer marks why chance it if you don't have to. Seems like low quality work to me. I'm sure you work hard for your money. Make them do the same.

 

[shawnlee]

Hey Paul,

You are correct I miss fired and put mild builds instead of what you wrote, apologies there.
And I agree on the most part, I am not worried about the rust, wire brush that. Plus the oil holes are already widened or ground and look clean as deep as I can see.
Horsepower target is 500, its on off road green sticker truck.
Right now deciding on reworking the D3VE's to reach that level or just buying the Ford Racing Heads. In Santa Barbara there are not a lot of machine shop options for head porting and polish(if any maybe in Ventura) so may just be best to go the bolt on route.
Getting new pistons as well:
Kieth Black Silv-O-Lite Hyperpuetic 1143H-60
So the short block should be fine with that crank, my rods and those pistons, obvious bolt upgrades and a cam with 262/270 or around there.
Thanks again for you input, this forum and the contributors are a genuine help to occasional builder.
SMOKYNSB

You have a top notch guy you can deal with right down the road from ventura who is a member of this board....I believe his name is Chuck Stevens.......I am sure he can point you in the right direction on anything you may need done.

 

[rmcomprandy]

More Pics of Crank in question, I forgot to mention there is a pic in this post showing marks on a weight. Looks like it was beat with a hammer? Does that help make a decision one way or another? Thanks again guys for any help.
SMOKYNSB

This probably isn't what happened here but, you know that when a "high dollar" crank is bent for any reason including "nitriding", a HAMMER is used to straingten it.
Those hammer marks are ugly however, certainly not a detriment.

RUST ...?
IF it can be removed by normal brushing and cleaning and everything else about the crank is fine, then as Paul said ... use it.
You DO have crankshaft oil hole brushes right...?

 

[1991F150]

Agree CompRandy,

Rust is already gone, 5 mins with wire brush in a drill. I have all kinds of brushes.
Yes I have the oil pass brushes as well, there looking pretty clean coming out.
I am hoping to speak to Paul a little more on this, I was late getting to him tonight.
Thanks for you help on this as well.
SMOKYNSB

 

[blown473]

crank

I would be very unlikely to do business with a shop that would try to trade me a crank in that condition. They should have a hot tank and other equipment to give you a crank in the best of condition. If this is an example of what they consider good work, who knows what other corners they will cut building you a motor or machining your parts. Any quality shop would not hand out parts in that condition. The crank itself MIGHT be ok, but who knows? At best it does not look like a lot of time was spent on it. Engines are far too expensive to take chances on. Look on this forum as to what happens to a motor when the crank lets go, it takes out the rest of the motor too, all your expensive parts are down the drain. Find a shop that takes PRIDE in their work, if a shop is dirty, disorganized , and everybody is in a hurry, don't walk , run!

 

[rmcomprandy]

I would be very unlikely to do business with a shop that would try to trade me a crank in that condition. They should have a hot tank and other equipment to give you a crank in the best of condition. If this is an example of what they consider good work, who knows what other corners they will cut building you a motor or machining your parts. Any quality shop would not hand out parts in that condition. The crank itself MIGHT be ok, but who knows? At best it does not look like a lot of time was spent on it. Engines are far too expensive to take chances on. Look on this forum as to what happens to a motor when the crank lets go, it takes out the rest of the motor too, all your expensive parts are down the drain. Find a shop that takes PRIDE in their work, if a shop is dirty, disorganized , and everybody is in a hurry, don't walk , run!

LOL ... yea, you should find a shop where the end product LOOKS like jewelry but, the hidden machining is just north of trash. (Can't get my tongue out of my cheek it's planter so hard.)
I guess we all have our own priorities.

 

[blown473]

end product

Actually I have been using the same machine shop for over 16 years, its a small 2 man shop that actually WARRANTIES racing engines, the man is a ex USAF machinist, runs his shop neat and orderly. He has separate containers labeled for each customers parts, meaning no lost parts or your parts going into someone else's motor. He stands by his work because he assembles each motor personally, not separate people doing tasks. His track record? Between myself and my car club and friends at least 50 motors, and never a dud. I guess the fact that his car has been track champion for about 15 of the last 20 years says something too. He would never want a crank looking like that leaving his shop, his name means something to him. By the way he's 78 years old, looks and acts like he's 60, but comes from the generation where your work and your word mean something. Find a shop like that and you will get both clean parts AND precise machine work too.

 

[Diggindeeper]

For that power level it is really hard to beat the Eagle cast crank for $245. Make sure you open up those ring gaps on those Keith Black pistions.

If your's did't have hammer marks I'd take it back. Could very well be nothing wrong with it but pulling, building and reinserting a motor is a lot of work. I'm not saying that this one won't work. It very well could. But with the rust and hammer marks why chance it if you don't have to. Seems like low quality work to me. I'm sure you work hard for your money. Make them do the same.

Tough to beat the eagle cast? The factory crank that you already have is 10000% better.

 

[dirt bogger]

LOL ... yea, you should find a shop where the end product LOOKS like jewelry but, the hidden machining is just north of trash. (Can't get my tongue out of my cheek it's planter so hard.)
I guess we all have our own priorities.

If he's gonna run those hyper pistons IMO the crank is the least of his problems. GOOD LUCK WITH 'EM!!

 

[rmcomprandy]

In this day and age, (unless you're lucky enough to have an "old school" type auto machine shop in your area), you can get your work done;
RIGHT...
NOT EXPENSIVE...
FAST...
pick one.

If you desire two, you will need to choose a priority...!

All Three??? LOL, lol, LOL, lol, LOL, lol, LOL...