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I do own a 3/8" right angle drill adapter but I keep reading everywhere that you need a 1/2" drill to do this. Is it because of the amount of torque? If so, putting a 3/8" right angle adapter on a 1/2" drill may not be a good idea. Has anyone ever tried this?
1/2" would be recommended. What type of adapter do you have? One of those u-joint swivel attachments? or is it a chuck adapter?

When I did mine (granted, it was the 400, not the 460), the diesel was fine, but when I put oil in, it put a huge strain on the drill and the windings started to smoke. Definitely a bit much for a 3/8" drill. I've read that the 400 and 460 dizzys are interchangable, and if thats true, a deep well socket should fit over the oil pump shaft just fine.
 

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HI My 3/8 dewalt turned my 545's oil pump fine New up to 40 psi. with no problem don't know about using the right angle adapter, it might cause to much drag to work with a 3/8 drill.
Remember when pulling the dizzy be aware of where the rotor is pointing so it well be close to the proper timing, when you pull it and also when reinstalling the dizzy you may have to turn the pump shaft a little to get it to re-line up the the dizzy.
good luck
tim
 

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Discussion Starter #24
When you have a bad battery and you add jumper cables, some (maybe most) of the power from the Jumpers is going into the bad battery. If the bad battery has shorted cells, you will never get the engine to crank.

Of course when you installed the spark plug you are now fighting the engines compression in addition to the normal drag of the piston rings and rotating parts.

You need to get a new battery. Then you will be able to crank the engine at the proper speed. Even taking the old battery out temporarily hooking up the truck battery (by itself) is a good choice.
Those of you suggesting dead battery and jumping not a good idea were right. I wasn't really jumping the dead battery, I had it disconnected and connected the good battery via jumper wires to the battery wires on the 460 engine. Anyway, physically putting the good battery in the chassis makes the engine crank with plugs and all installed. Now I have to deal with priming the oil pump(spinning the dizzy) as some people say... Not an easy task but we will get there.
 

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STOP STOP
Was the dizzy in when you turned it over ??? if it was then the oil pump was already turning.. or should have been.. The dizzy operates the oil pump if it was turning so was the pump.. unless the shaft was broken. Who ever calls it spinning the dizzy does not know what they are talking about.. if you have to spin the oil pump your HAVE to remove the dizzy.. But cranking the motor well turn the dizzy and the oil pump if that is what they mean.
good luck
tim
 

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Discussion Starter #26
STOP STOP
Was the dizzy in when you turned it over ??? if it was then the oil pump was already turning.. or should have been.. The dizzy operates the oil pump if it was turning so was the pump.. unless the shaft was broken. Who ever calls it spinning the dizzy does not know what they are talking about.. if you have to spin the oil pump your HAVE to remove the dizzy.. But cranking the motor well turn the dizzy and the oil pump if that is what they mean.
good luck
tim
I am glad I just read your post. I was at the point of pulling the distributor, hold down bolt removed(yes I aligned the stator and marked the body to the block) but it seems stuck to the block it will not come out. I left it soaking with lubricant. Does it just drop in the hole? Given that the body is plastic I am afraid of breaking it.

PS: I have never removed the distributor. I was able to turn the engine by hand, and crank a few times for no more than 2 seconds each time. The only reason for doing the oil pump priming is the comments made by several that the bearings will be destroyed if I attempt to start it after sitting for 5 years. Believe me I would rather save me the aggravation, just following the advice of all you guys.
 

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I am glad I just read your post. I was at the point of pulling the distributor, hold down bolt removed(yes I aligned the stator and marked the body to the block) but it seems stuck to the block it will not come out. I left it soaking with lubricant. Does it just drop in the hole? Given that the body is plastic I am afraid of breaking it.

PS: I have never removed the distributor. I was able to turn the engine by hand, and crank a few times for no more than 2 seconds each time. The only reason for doing the oil pump priming is the comments made by several that the bearings will be destroyed if I attempt to start it after sitting for 5 years. Believe me I would rather save me the aggravation, just following the advice of all you guys.
If you absolutely cannot get it out, then I would crank the engine with no plugs in it, as long as its not making any dry, metallic noises. I'm not really surprised that the distributor is seized in the block.

Just take it easy on the motor. The motor seized for a reason. I'd hate for you to get her fired up, then have a rod fly through the block.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
At this point I am stuck trying to get the distributor off the engine. With heat(I use heat gun, don't like torches) and lubricant I will get it off. I am not a a hurry.

One last question: which way do you spin the drill once in place? CW or CCW? Is 5 minutes plenty of time?
 

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HI something is up if you've removed the bolt and still can't get it out.. might be a bigger problem inside the motor like the gear chewed up or something causing it to stick..
good luck
tim
 

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At this point I am stuck trying to get the distributor off the engine. With heat(I use heat gun, don't like torches) and lubricant I will get it off. I am not a a hurry.

One last question: which way do you spin the drill once in place? CW or CCW? Is 5 minutes plenty of time?
CCW. Honestly, I would spin the oil shaft for a minute, rotate the motor, spin, rotate, etc. Just dont be surprised if you have a hard time getting the dizzy back in. It can be a pain to get the oil shaft lined up as youre trying to slide the dizzy back in :)
 

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Hi Yes pay attention to who the rotor turns as you pull the distributor. that way you well know where to put the rotor when reinstalling the distributor and to the oil pump.. I think it well move about a 1/2 inch so you well need to set it at that 1/2 inch so when it fully in the rotor well line up with the proper point where you took it out at.. (it is always best to do this at TDC so you are sure its line up to the proper wire in the cap. Also remember two turns of the Crank equal one turn of the distributor.)
good luck
tim
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I am doing what the shop manual says but sometimes they could be wrong... It says to make a mark on the body of the distributor and the block so the distributor goes back in exactly where is was before, and to mark the rotor where it points on the housing. It also says to avoid turning the engine to avoid having to set TDC.
Still fighting removal of the distributor, I am sure it hasn't been removed in 30 years...Motorhomes do not get used a lot. By the way, no one has commented on whether it drops in the hole or screws into it. Sorry for the stupid questions but I have never pulled one and it makes a big difference as you are trying to remove it.
 

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yes it just drops in the hole so it should pull right out but I under stand being stuck after years of no mess with. If you can rotate the distributor it shouldn't be stuck, if it is then something might be wrong inside. Now when you mark the rotor while in the block is fine but REMEMBER when you pull it out because the gear is cut on an angle it well turn when you pull it out about a 1/2 inch. pay attention to where it wines up at when pulled so you can start the rotor it the right spot to be in the right spot when fully installed.
good luck
tim
 

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It is NOT at all unusual for the distributor to be stuck in the block especially when the timing is not regularly checked / adjusted.

Electrolysis between dissimilar metals is partly to blame.

Soak it well and repeatedly with penetrating oil. You can then try rotating the distributor body by carefully prying against the vacuum advance boss. NOT THE dashpot.

In some cases you will damage the distributor. It can not be avoided.


SJ
used 2b RHP



:D
 

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I have seen a FEW WATER PUMPS,AND ALT'S FREZZ UP CAUSING THIS SAME PROB,take off all the belts and check,and then try to turn it over.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I really appreciate all the suggestions. I will try them all as I continue to work on this project. Will keep you posted.
 

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I think your wasting your time trying to pull the distributor. I know the engine has been sitting for a long time, but there will still be oil in the galleys and on the bearings, and after a couple of seconds cranking the engine more oil will be pumped through the engine.

I would just get some fresh gas, and a good battery and start it up.
 

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Hey guys, I'm new to 460/FORD but I've been working ford my whole life, and this same thing happen to me a couple of months ago, and it was the starter. After sitting for about a year, I tried to start my truck and nothing. Freshly charged battery, while jumping it at the same time. Nothing. New starter.......same thing. The motor was free, l could move it by hand, And after trying a few things, and out of ideas, I dug out an old starter from my collection of parts, and it started no problem. I got a bad starter from Advance Auto. Go figure. Anyways I hope this helps.
 

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As stated above, replace the BATTERY with a NEW one, clean all cables, drain and fill with new, clean oil, squirt each cylinder with oil, crank over for 30 seconds, stop, wait repeat 3-4 times this will get your oil moving. Put charger on battery, install spark plugs and NEW wires, prime carb with gas and start. I have done this numerous times on field cars and trucks as well as my own long term storage vehicles successfully. Once it starts this thing will smoke like no tomorrow, resist the urge to rev it up, just let it idle and reach operating temp. You will also want to flush the cooling system and run a couple of cans of sea foam in the tank and one in the oil. after you get it started and up to temp, drain the oil and fill with new clean oil and a new filter. 90% of your starting issue is the battery and the cables, good luck .
 
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