1/2" would be recommended. What type of adapter do you have? One of those u-joint swivel attachments? or is it a chuck adapter?I do own a 3/8" right angle drill adapter but I keep reading everywhere that you need a 1/2" drill to do this. Is it because of the amount of torque? If so, putting a 3/8" right angle adapter on a 1/2" drill may not be a good idea. Has anyone ever tried this?
Those of you suggesting dead battery and jumping not a good idea were right. I wasn't really jumping the dead battery, I had it disconnected and connected the good battery via jumper wires to the battery wires on the 460 engine. Anyway, physically putting the good battery in the chassis makes the engine crank with plugs and all installed. Now I have to deal with priming the oil pump(spinning the dizzy) as some people say... Not an easy task but we will get there.When you have a bad battery and you add jumper cables, some (maybe most) of the power from the Jumpers is going into the bad battery. If the bad battery has shorted cells, you will never get the engine to crank.
Of course when you installed the spark plug you are now fighting the engines compression in addition to the normal drag of the piston rings and rotating parts.
You need to get a new battery. Then you will be able to crank the engine at the proper speed. Even taking the old battery out temporarily hooking up the truck battery (by itself) is a good choice.
I am glad I just read your post. I was at the point of pulling the distributor, hold down bolt removed(yes I aligned the stator and marked the body to the block) but it seems stuck to the block it will not come out. I left it soaking with lubricant. Does it just drop in the hole? Given that the body is plastic I am afraid of breaking it.STOP STOP
Was the dizzy in when you turned it over ??? if it was then the oil pump was already turning.. or should have been.. The dizzy operates the oil pump if it was turning so was the pump.. unless the shaft was broken. Who ever calls it spinning the dizzy does not know what they are talking about.. if you have to spin the oil pump your HAVE to remove the dizzy.. But cranking the motor well turn the dizzy and the oil pump if that is what they mean.
If you absolutely cannot get it out, then I would crank the engine with no plugs in it, as long as its not making any dry, metallic noises. I'm not really surprised that the distributor is seized in the block.I am glad I just read your post. I was at the point of pulling the distributor, hold down bolt removed(yes I aligned the stator and marked the body to the block) but it seems stuck to the block it will not come out. I left it soaking with lubricant. Does it just drop in the hole? Given that the body is plastic I am afraid of breaking it.
PS: I have never removed the distributor. I was able to turn the engine by hand, and crank a few times for no more than 2 seconds each time. The only reason for doing the oil pump priming is the comments made by several that the bearings will be destroyed if I attempt to start it after sitting for 5 years. Believe me I would rather save me the aggravation, just following the advice of all you guys.
CCW. Honestly, I would spin the oil shaft for a minute, rotate the motor, spin, rotate, etc. Just dont be surprised if you have a hard time getting the dizzy back in. It can be a pain to get the oil shaft lined up as youre trying to slide the dizzy back inAt this point I am stuck trying to get the distributor off the engine. With heat(I use heat gun, don't like torches) and lubricant I will get it off. I am not a a hurry.
One last question: which way do you spin the drill once in place? CW or CCW? Is 5 minutes plenty of time?