D44 Build ideas / help..

1383 Views 7 Replies 7 Participants Last post by 78bronco460, Jul 2, 2010

plcdwg101

Discussion Starter · Jun 30, 2010

OK, Gotta admit Im a little intimidated by the D60 front axle conversion. Im telling myself I don’t really “need” it. Truth be known I do not off-road a lot. We'll see

With that said, could I get some ideas / suggestions on building a relative strong D44 (with and w/out chrome molly shafts-are they worth it?) Thanks again..

Save

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

D60 little money up front, little extra weight, but,, almost always no problems after that !!

44's I see break every single week !!!! every week!!! Did I happen to mention I see them break every single week.

Modified and not. Modified helps out a ton but they still seem to come apart when landed with the throttle on.

60's I'm sure they break but I haven't seen one break yet this year.!!

Just my .06 cents!

Jeffro

Save

kjett

· #3 · Jun 30, 2010

It depends on how you are racing. I have seen d30's live with no problems running under a 700+ci c headed motor making unknown amounts of hp. It all depends on the application and how it's inteded use is. For hill in the hole pits where the truck is in the air, then go with the 60, for shallow pits a chromoly shafted d44 will live forever as long as it is left open. I do see them break, but it's from the guys that insist that they need to lock or ls the front end. I thought the same as well for a while and kept breaking shafts with my 35" boggers, as soon as I put the open diff back in my speed went up, my times got faster and the truck tracked straighter in the hole. Just some food for thought....

Save

BlueBitch

· #4 · Jun 30, 2010

i agree...if ur doing summin like the hill and hole 60 is best ...i am in the same situation as u i have 836hp and plan on running the 44 open with some upgrades.....we have 1-3 feet of soup mud.....many guys run this set up no prob......just my input

Save

800+BBF

· #5 · Jun 30, 2010

kjett said:
It depends on how you are racing. I have seen d30's live with no problems running under a 700+ci c headed motor making unknown amounts of hp. It all depends on the application and how it's inteded use is. For hill in the hole pits where the truck is in the air, then go with the 60, for shallow pits a chromoly shafted d44 will live forever as long as it is left open. I do see them break, but it's from the guys that insist that they need to lock or ls the front end. I thought the same as well for a while and kept breaking shafts with my 35" boggers, as soon as I put the open diff back in my speed went up, my times got faster and the truck tracked straighter in the hole. Just some food for thought....

Yep!!! Thats the truth, but 4 Hill and hole racing I would ditch the 60 and run a fab 9inch up front hi pinion - 60 outters 35 splined axles= $$$$$ but less weight than a stock 60

jeffro remember the enemy is watching me!

so i will stop there. if the rules let you swap diffs then there is no rule in what you run up front. build it for what it is used for. Ran a Dana 44 hi pinion for the last ten years. with only one ring and pinion failure and 3 axles, till I Switch to ctm joints and chromoly. thats the end of that story. ten inches of mud to well over 4 feet deep. heavy boggers up front will break a 44 and a 60. the question is how much do you wanna spend

Save

McQ

· #6 · Jun 30, 2010 (Edited)

Really good input guys! All accurate. Really good info for sure...

Having said that, Do we really ever expect to put our trucks through the conditions that we did when we broke them? Anwer:no we did not.

Build it not to break and it won't!! But you could listen to Kjet or Marshall and honestly race for years without breaking.

So I am sure there is no right answer but.. (not intending any bad blood or ill feelings from the 44 guys) You will see many guys defend the 44 over the 60. Please try and find one 44 guy that has changed to a 60 and still defends the 44?? It won't happen. Once you go 60 you really apprecioate that it keeps you in races from that point on.........

only my .12 cents

Jeffro

See less See more

Save

Mud Freak

· #7 · Jul 1, 2010

I have done alot of thinkin of swapping to a 44 for the weight reduction, but after the last 2 races seeing about 6 passes with airtime out the end, I better stick to the 60. Like its been said, flat fast tracks are d44 friendly, rough tracks with serious abuse including jumps, wall hits and mud that begs for a front locker, the d60 will not let you down. If the cash flow permits, there are hub/rotor kits made from aluminum that drop about 120lbs off the 60, and if price is no object, then the 9" with 60 knuckles would be the baddest thing to run!!

Save

78bronco460

· #8 · Jul 2, 2010

Check that the steering stop bolts are in place on the knuckles and that they are set right so your tires don't bite the radius arms at full lock. It will save you some axle breakage.

Save

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month