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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
77 Lincoln, did my worn out timing chain jump a tooth? I’m at TDC, and the only thing that seems to line up is the keyway at 12 o’clock. I’m aware this has the factory retarded cam timing for emissions but it still seems off. The cam gear marking is pointed towards the drivers side and not at 6 o’clock. Either way I’m replacing it to get rid of the plastic tooth gear and the chain is extremely loose.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yuppers, that's jumped time... The marks are supposed to line up with each other...
I’m thinking the same. I think that the crank sprocket mark on the factory retarded gear doesn’t match 12 o’clock from the factory, only the crank keyway should face 12 o’clock. And the cam sprocket mark should be facing 6 o’clock no matter what at TDC?
 

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You have not jumped a tooth yet.

When setting up the later timing sets it is tooth to tooth.
If you were to advance the crank so the tooth with the white dot is at noon the cam would be about a half tooth retarded due to chain stretch and gear tooth wear.

When the crank is advanced relative to the alignment tooth the cam is retarded.

Set up with a good quality double roller timing set. Straight up where tooth AND keyway are at NOON.

Properly curved distributor.

The above along with a high flow 180* stat are a good start to a better running smogger engine








Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
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See our products in the Vendor for sale section
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You have not jumped a tooth yet.

When setting up the later timing sets it is tooth to tooth.
If you were to advance the crank so the tooth with the white dot is at noon the cam would be about a half tooth retarded due to chain stretch and gear tooth wear.

When the crank is advanced relative to the alignment tooth the cam is retarded.

Set up with a good quality double roller timing set. Straight up where tooth AND keyway are at NOON.

Properly curved distributor.

The above along with a high flow 180* stat are a good start to a better running smogger engine
So I make sure I’m understanding, when I put on a new straight up set, crank keyway & tooth should be facing noon & cam tooth & marking should be facing 6 o’clock?

To do this, should I move the cam clockwise to line up?
 

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So I make sure I’m understanding, when I put on a new straight up set, crank keyway & tooth should be facing noon & cam tooth & marking should be facing 6 o’clock?

To do this, should I move the cam clockwise to line up?
That would be correct.






Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine
 

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HI
The DOT on the cam gear and the DOT on the crank gear should line up 6 and 12.. the Key way well be ether at 12 if you installed a 0* timing set or off to one side or the other depending if the timing set a advanced or retarded ... But the dots should all ways line up ether way, the key way is what goes off to one side of the other.
good luck take care be safe'
tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I’ve got some parts to order so it will be a while until I get it put back together but this gives me good direction.
The car has been backfiring out of the carb, burning extremely rich(fouling plugs almost immediately). It wouldn’t even start yesterday. I have already:
Rebuilt carb(twice just to confirm)
New plugs
New wires
New cap & rotor
New fuel filter
Timed with advance unplugged at 16* BTC
Compression test looked good

So even though it may not have jumped a tooth, hopefully this is my problem. Here’s the land yacht:
Lincoln mark series Tire Wheel Vehicle Car
 

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nice car
you need any parts i have a 77 just pulled engine out of going to send the rest to the wrecker soon . same colour . man is that one in nice shape
I’ve got some parts to order so it will be a while until I get it put back together but this gives me good direction.
The car has been backfiring out of the carb, burning extremely rich(fouling plugs almost immediately). It wouldn’t even start yesterday. I have already:
Rebuilt carb(twice just to confirm)
New plugs
New wires
New cap & rotor
New fuel filter
Timed with advance unplugged at 16* BTC
Compression test looked good

So even though it may not have jumped a tooth, hopefully this is my problem. Here’s the land yacht:
View attachment 94795
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
yes it does it is in real rough shape though. but there is usuable parts on it if needed.mice got in intertior and body lots rust . but grill and some chrome trims in real good shape. i just tore engine trans and rear end out rest going for scrap
I'm pretty set on the exterior. If the car happens to have a good horn pad, headlight switch(not just the knob but whole switch) and seat belt hole plugs(pictured) I may be interested. Your profile shows the Canadian flag, are you near SK?
Hood Tie Aqua Gadget Motor vehicle
 

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I'm pretty set on the exterior. If the car happens to have a good horn pad, headlight switch(not just the knob but whole switch) and seat belt hole plugs(pictured) I may be interested. Your profile shows the Canadian flag, are you near SK? View attachment 94797
ya i am in sk yes .
the horn pad is not good .
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
ya i am in sk yes .
the horn pad is not good .
I was just curious as I'm in NW North Dakota so I border SK.

The interior is actually different than mine, your interior is from a Mark IV, they were built 72 to 76. The Mark V's were 77 to 79. So the headlight switch and gauges are different and wouldn't swap. The seat belt plug looks to be the same though. Let me know if you have the pair and what you're asking. You can message me if you'd like. Thanks.
 
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