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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a factory nodular hog head with the daytona support and got it rebuilt with a solid spacer and the yoke is too long for the driveshaft. I tried changing it with another yoke out of a regular 9" and it seems to not want to turn easily. I heard you change yokes with a solid spacer without worrying about backlash. Do I need a different yoke or does the yoke I have need to be shortened?
 

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Yup. Takes a shorter yoke. I have bought them and had long ones machined. Most gear places have them.
 

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yoke

I bought a factory nodular hog head with the daytona support and got it rebuilt with a solid spacer and the yoke is too long for the driveshaft. I tried changing it with another yoke out of a regular 9" and it seems to not want to turn easily. I heard you change yokes with a solid spacer without worrying about backlash. Do I need a different yoke or does the yoke I have need to be shortened?
changing the yoke does not affect the backlash at all -- it affects the pinion bearing preload only. if your diff was set up with a solid spacer simply remove your yoke and install the new one, tighten the nut to 200 ft/lbs with loctite on threads and you should be good to go , however you stated that when you changed out the yoke it would not turn easily-- sounds like they may have used a crush sleeve or did not put in the correct length spacer and you have increased the preload on the pinion bearings-- not good---.it should measure with new bearings 20-25 in/lbs used bearings 10-15in/lbs.
what size u -joint are you using -- if it is a 1310 or 1330 size a Ford truck 9 inch yoke is 1 inch shorter than a car yoke which may help with driveshaft install.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I talked to the shop that went through the differential and they definitely used a solid spacer. I was worried about pinion bearing preload because of the yoke being longer on the spline side. I hate to say this but I used an impact to torque the yoke on. I had a vertebrae in my neck fused a little over a week ago and not supposed to lift anything heavier than a coffee cup so I didn't think I could use the torque wrench. I am not exactly following doctors orders to a tee. I think it had 1350 U joints on the yoke that was on there and the yoke I put on there is for 1330. It is a new motor 545 that is in a bay of my friends paint booth and just getting it to move around right now from one bay to another to finish the body work. The help is very appreciated
 

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I have seen a couple of those long yokes over the years. Not sure exactly what they where out of but they are about 1 1/4 inches longer on the outside end. As far as I know they are the same on the inside end so it should not be an issue when changing yokes. I have seen issues with the flinger and or the front seal binding. There is also the possibillity that your shop may not understand how the solid spacer works. Needs to be shimmed for correct preload. If the spacer is to short it will be very hard to turn.

dkp
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well the shop does do a lot of work on drag cars but is known more for transmissions but they do a lot of rear ends also so I would assume they know what they are doing. It would turn fine with the yoke that what was on it but not with the one I changed it to. I was thinking also that it might might be binding on the end of the rear end by the front seal. I had talked to moser and another rear end shop and was told different things so I might not be talking to the tech guys that know what they are doing. One said that the one for nodular is a little shorter and when they sell yokes they include a spacer for no nodular differentials. I just don't want to mess up the newly set up rear end!
 

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HOLD UP A SEC,, the N case yoke if different in that the splines end that gos into the datona suport is shorter, not longer, take a look you will see, , if you use a std pinion suport you dont have to worry about this


yes shorter, this is the diff. splines are not as deep, because inner bearing is wider( thicker)





-rich
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the replies, I guess I need the correct yoke that is shorter. That was what I was thinking as Fordman59 stated but got conflicting answers from different rear end shops.
 

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Just to make it easy to understand. Std yokes have a longer area from the edge that the nut goes against to the end that sits against the bearing. This is a pic of a Daytona yoke.
 

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