[jbozzelle]

I'm looking at buying an 01 F250 CC Lariat PSD from my uncle. It's got 225K on the clock. He just bought the truck about 6 months ago from a friend.

Tell me everything I should look out for on this truck with these many miles... I don't mind the mileage since it's a diesel. But how can I tell if it's been cared for. I can look over the chassis, etc... But I know just about nothing about the PSD's. I just don't want to buy it if it needs some costly repairs.

Do these have a timing chain? If so, should it be replaced every so often?

Does the turbo need to be rebuilt at any set interval?

Anything else I should look out for. I'm probably going to look at it this coming Saturday. My Dad had already driven it and said it's fine. Drives just like his 02 PSD did before he chipped it.

School me please.........

 

[Ranger50]

Timing is handled by gears, not chains.

No on turbo service intervals, but oil changes should have been done in a timely manner to avoid this repair.

Basically, all the other normal wear items should checked out. Ball joints, driveshaft ujoints, axle joints, if 4x4, steering linkage, etc.... it does have 225k on it afterall.

Brian

 

[TRUKPULR]

Biggest problem I had with my 01 PS is the Glow plug relay goes to heck every year. $85 for the relay and ten minutes of work and I'm good for another year.
After breaking this motor in with 4000 mile oil changes at the 96000 mile mark, I switched over too Delvac 400 syn. oil and will now change oil at 5000 intervals.
Plan to run this truck to 250,000 miles then trade it in on a new one.

ShaZam

 

[jmcx]

http://forums.thedieselstop.com

Cooling system should have gotten additive regularly to prevent cavitation from wrecking the block. There are test stips to check coolant quaility. Auto trannys are weak link when engine is modded and manuals have troublesome dual mass fly-wheel.

No reason to get rid of it at any milage if it has been cared for. None of the mechanicals wear in these motors but the periferals can sometimes give trouble.

 

[skipped_link]

Jmcx, I agree the auto tranny is not to great in these thrucks, I believe they went away from the daul mass fly wheel in 98 or 99, & the biggest thing with the auto is keep it cool, all it is, is an updated e4od,

Common things that I repair on these are ball joints (if 4x4) also check out the unit bearings on the front, the carrier bearing is also a common failure, but after replacing the origonal we usually don't have them coming back with that problem, (may have been a bad batch from the factory),
As for the Powerstroke engine, the 7.3 is proven to be reliable & tough, I have seen a couple dusted due to lack of maintinance, If it is an auto that would be my only caus for concern, just check it out good,

 

[jbozzelle]

Thanks guys,

Keep the info coming. The truck is a 2WD auto.

Thanks again

 

[hotford460]

the 7.3 is agood strong engine i have been running the ford diesels since they came out. usually run 3/4 and one ton 4-wheel drive they usually see pretty heavy service. usually run them up to 300-350k miles them sell them. haven't had good luck with the automatic though.but we usually run heavy (my current one goes across the scales at 11,500 lbs). i don't think that i have ever lost an engine. lots of glow plugs, relays,some injection pumps. do keep the now cool (for electolysis) additive in the coolant. and keep good batteries in it . LOL hotford 460

 

[jbozzelle]

Where can I buy the coolant test strips from? Someone told me the dealer doesn't have them. They only have the additive.

 

[David Cole]

You can but the test strips at most heavy truck supply stores. They are sold under the Fleetguard name. But.... I buy mine online:
http://www.dieselpage.com/motorfw16.htm
Good company to deal with. I also buy my fuel filters from them. MUCH cheaper than going to a Ford dealer.
http://www.dieselpage.com/racrefpl.htm

One other way is to just avoid the need for the test strips. At your next coolant change do a complete flush and change the coolant from green to the Motorcraft GOLD coolant. It is factory in 02-up PSD's. It doesn't require the additive or test strips.

David Cole

 

[bonfire]

I'd keep a spare Cam position sensor (CPS). for more info.
http://www.superdutydiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96

 

[DiscountPowerParts]

The CPS (Cam Position Sensor)and a 10mm wrench should be in the glove box. It is literally a 5 min change. Its just beside the crank dampener on the passanger side. One plug and a 10mm bolt hold it in. Its in there tight with an O-Ring so keep a little screw driver to help pry it out. They can last a million miles, or 10 miles. Buy this on Ebay for 35-70 bucks. I got my last one for 35 at a bid auction, or you can Buy It Now for 69.95.
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The tranny should have a tru-cool MAX (without thermal bypass) cooler added to it, or a BD-Diesel 1030610 cooler. I can help you with the BD cooler, you can do a search on the Trucool cooler if you like that. The BD cooler has a fan as well.
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The trannys notoriously run warm to hot, and that is the major factor causing failures. Part of the heat is caused by soft/lazy shifting. A BD Diesel valve body mod can help in a major way. I can help you with that. It is inexpensive, and you can do it as you change your tranny fluid. See the kit below:

Exchange Accumulator Kit

Ford Automatic Transmissions 1989 through 2002 BD's exchange Accumulator Kit can be installed in the stock transmission. It will improve the life of your transmission by reducing the time that it takes to shift from one gear to the next. A long delayed shift may be smooth but it drags the clutches which causes heat and premature clutch wear. The rate and the volume of the apply oil is modified with the components included in our exchange accumulators. The bodies mating surfaces are lapped to prevent any cross leaks.

A new pan gasket and filter is included to make this a smart and clean transmission upgrade. Designed for E4Od and 4R100 transmissions that are driven by Diesel engines.


** Quicker Shifts Reduce Heat and results in less Clutch Wear**

Part #1060442 Accumulator Body Kit 4R100/E4OD 2wd (I can help you on this part as well if you are interested)
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Ball joints are common wear items on 4x4's for sure, 50-60K miles normal life. I dont know anyone with a 2wd superduty to know if they suffer similar issues. If your replacing them, MOOG is the most recomended replacement joint out there. I can help you on this part.
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Sway bar end links on the front sway bar are normal wear items. The bushings get loose and it makes a clunk sound. Ford has these normally in stock.
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SES lights are commonly tripped from MAP sensors. 68 bucks at advance auto parts.
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There is a hose that comes out of your drivers side valve cover and goes upto the inlet just before the turbo. Remove the preformed hose and runa few feet of rubber hose down into the wheelwell and exhaust the crankcase out there. There is alot of oil that gets blown into the intercooler from this hose. It well clean up the intercooler and also help prevent your intercooler boots from getting blown off from the oil.
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The radiator additive is at your local Ford dealer, I just toss a bottle in once a year.
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Change the fluid in the powersteering system. This is the same fluid that operates your brakes...its called hydro-boost. That fluid takes a beating.
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Fuel filters need changed at regular intervals on a diesel, you can't do this like a car and run it for 10 years on the factory filter. Every oil change. Its a simple swap, 3-5 min on top of the engine.
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Add a tuner for more power! The 7.3 is great, but it can be sooo much better. I can help you with this.
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If your going to tow, add a guage set with tranny temp, EGT, and if you want to...boost. Or do a digital box like the Bullydog Monitor that monitors everything and defuels the truck if you get the EGT's to high. Edge also makes the Evolution with Attitude monitor that does the same thing. I can help you out on all tuner issues.
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After that, its back to standard issue...look at things like mentioned by others....U-joints and all. The PowerStroke has been known to go 300-400K miles with proper maintenance.

 

[jbozzelle]

HERE"S AN UPDATE!! Sorry it's long...... NEED HELP!

Saw the truck up close for the first time today. MAN is it DIRTY!!!! The previous owner used it as a work truck and apparently never vacuumed it regularly, etc..... Looks like it just needs to have the **** detailed out of it!

The leather look OK, I would say it's in real good shape considering the 225K miles on the clock. It has one small hole right near the seat edge. You can tell it's from sliding in/out of the truck. I can replace seat upholstery if I had too.

The truck had zero leaks. The underside of it looked dry. It has 3.73's and a Trac Lok in it. Tires are OK.

I give the body a 7 out of 10. It has no rust, but has 2 dents on the roof right where the roof meets the top door area. The paint is cracked there and there is a rust colored line where the paint is cracked. There is also 4 holes in the roof, right down the middle of the cab, front to back. These have some rubber plugs popped into them.

Here's my concerns after looking at it. Upon first driving it it had ZERO bottom end power..... Found the air filter was plugged BIG TIME. The air filter gauge was sucked to the red....... Luckily my Dad's 02 PSD was next to it and we swapped in his K&N and I noticed a big improvement.... But it still lacked some, to me at least, BUT maybe it's just me.

It also had what seemed to be an exhaust leak on the driver's side. I could hear it tick while driving.

What else could make it seem like it still had some air inlet restriction?

Also, it seemed to run rough. I know it's a diesel and has 225K on the clock, but it seemed rough compared to my Dad's which has 80K on it. could it be dirty injectors? A bad sensor? Will the engine light come on if a code is present? Or will I have to pull the codes. It seemed rough when I would stomp it and it would accelerate up through the gears and also while cruising when I would mash the gas a little to speed up to change lanes, etc.... My Dad's truck is smooth when I do this..... Could this be air in the fuel lines? Or becuase of the chip it supposedly has in it. It sure didn't perform like a chipped truck.

It didn't smoke any more than other PSD's I've seen when you stomp on it. No smoke at idle, seemed to idle fine, it was a little louder than my Dad's. Don't know why? Maybe the idle loudness and the roughness of the engine are connected? This truck is identical to my Dad's, except it's an 01.

Don't know what oil was run in it. It had a "Quickie Lube Place" sticker on it. What could happen if it didn't have the correct "diesel" oil on run in it?

The trans seemed to shudder when I took off. Not real noticeable, but I could feel it here and there. What could this be?

Other than the roof dents, a few scratches... it was, after all a work truck, it's not bad. I can clean the interior myself, and I have a body/paint man that can weld the holes shut in the roof and fix the dents for a great price.

Also, it's had the muffler removed. It's got a straight pipe installed in it's place. It sounds great too! Will this cause any problems???

My uncle wants 13,000 for it. Kelly Blue Book lists this truck, with all of its options in GOOD condition (4 out of 5 stars) for 16,800, and in FAIR condition (3 out of 5 stars) for 15,100. This is Private Party Value. What do you think?!

I have the previous owners number and will call him about the truck. Just to inquire about maintenance, etc.....

Also, I took it out on the highway and the overhead MPG computer said 23.5 mpg at 74 MPH. I know these things can be off by as much as 4-5mpg, but I thought this was still good.


Do you think it's worth it? I say YES, but really I don't know. BUT only because I don't know what could be causing the "rough" condition. Or the trans shudder.

HELP ME GUYS.......

I really need the 4 doors this truck has, My 94 Supercab just ain't cutting it with my 2 boys stuffed in the back.......

Thanks as usual......

 

[DiscountPowerParts]

Re: HERE"S AN UPDATE!! Sorry it's long...... NEED H

The truck had zero leaks. The underside of it looked dry. It has 3.73's and a Trac Lok in it. Tires are OK.

**Good sign, no leaks. Leaks can be problematic with some 7.3's. Most all 7.3's had 3.73 gears with a limited slip from the factory, it was the F-450 and up that had 4.10 gears normally unless it was special ordered.***

I give the body a 7 out of 10. It has no rust, but has 2 dents on the roof right where the roof meets the top door area. The paint is cracked there and there is a rust colored line where the paint is cracked. There is also 4 holes in the roof, right down the middle of the cab, front to back. These have some rubber plugs popped into them.

***I'm not to worried about the body, unless its severe abuse. They are pretty well coated with anti-corrosive coatings any more. Touch up the cracked paint with sand paper and some spray bombs Until you can afford to spruce it up right.***

Here's my concerns after looking at it. Upon first driving it it had ZERO bottom end power..... Found the air filter was plugged BIG TIME. The air filter gauge was sucked to the red....... Luckily my Dad's 02 PSD was next to it and we swapped in his K&N and I noticed a big improvement.... But it still lacked some, to me at least, BUT maybe it's just me.

***I would check the fuel filter. It should be changed every oil change. If the EGR has been getting a fair amount of blowby, the intercooler can be partially clogged with oil. Take the EGR pre-formed hose out of the drivers side valve cover and throw it at the nearest Chevy you see. Make up a fitting/hose so you can go from the valve cover and run the hose into the wheel-well. It will smoke a bit out of your wheel-well....lol...but in a couple weeks the intercoller will begin to clear up and move more air with less resistance. By an Airaid cold air intake, they are cheap and work as good as any. Thye bottom end can be helped by buying a Wicked Wheel compressor wheel...or similar. Banks has one, BD Diesel, TS, Black Cloud...there are many out there. It is basicly a pre-1999 compressor wheel. The 99 and newer had the redesigned compressor wheel that was quieter....it sucks. It does less boost at low RPM's, it goes into surge WAY to fast...and causes turbo failure....not to mention its freaking QUITE! Who wants a quiet turbo? You better hope the guy has the tuner for it. If its a chip, it is in teh PCM facing your left knee as you set in teh truck. If its a tuner it was plugged into the OBD-II port and a performance tune was installed. If you dont have the tune device, and you ever take it for service...you loose the tune. Dealer will flash over your tune and its gone forever. How old is this tuner? Todays tunes are 1000% better than what was out 3-4 years back. If you want to know what tuners are good today ask me.****

It also had what seemed to be an exhaust leak on the driver's side. I could hear it tick while driving.

***The up-pipe from the manifold to the turbo? The exhaust manifold? The turbo inlet "Y"? It could be any of these.......you just got to find it...****

What else could make it seem like it still had some air inlet restriction?

If its not getting air, its going to smoke. The 7.3 should not smoke much at all, even at wide open. Until you add fuel with aftermarket injectors...smoke is hard to come by unless your injector timing and pulse width is so far out of whack that the thing makes no power and just plain dumps raw fuel thru it. If it is smoking, something is not right. I run a 100chip with a 6-gun stacked on it and I can make a grey puff if I let my 7.3 fall to idle at 40 MPH and smack the throttle to the rug like Im mad at it...a few second puff and the boost comes alive and cleans it up.****

Also, it seemed to run rough. I know it's a diesel and has 225K on the clock, but it seemed rough compared to my Dad's which has 80K on it. could it be dirty injectors? A bad sensor? Will the engine light come on if a code is present? Or will I have to pull the codes. It seemed rough when I would stomp it and it would accelerate up through the gears and also while cruising when I would mash the gas a little to speed up to change lanes, etc.... My Dad's truck is smooth when I do this..... Could this be air in the fuel lines? Or becuase of the chip it supposedly has in it. It sure didn't perform like a chipped truck.

***If there is a minor code, it will throw the yellow SES (Service Engine Soon) light. If there is serious detrimental to the engine's life code, you throw the red SES light...and you better shut her off.....now. Change the fuel filter/air filter and see if it cleans up the rough running. I'm betting it does.****


It didn't smoke any more than other PSD's I've seen when you stomp on it. No smoke at idle, seemed to idle fine, it was a little louder than my Dad's. Don't know why? Maybe the idle loudness and the roughness of the engine are connected? This truck is identical to my Dad's, except it's an 01.

**See above, it should not be smoking unless its messed up or HIGHLY modified***

Don't know what oil was run in it. It had a "Quickie Lube Place" sticker on it. What could happen if it didn't have the correct "diesel" oil on run in it?

****Run Diesel oil only. Mobile1, Delvac, Ams-Oil 3000, or similar. If your running regular oil, your going to have noisey injectors, and ruined injectors...soon. Good oil quits the oil, keeps the injectors alive, and actually can help smooth the idle and quiet the injector clatter.****

The trans seemed to shudder when I took off. Not real noticeable, but I could feel it here and there. What could this be?

****Common problem is Convertors, that has the old single disk lock up convertor Unless its been changed out with the 2003 7.3 convertor (2 disk). Like 350 bucks for a new one if you know how to buy it. Ask me if you need one, I can tell you who to call. The other thing is the valve body mod, and the tranny fluid should be flushed. You can do this at home, I can tell you how..ask me.****

Other than the roof dents, a few scratches... it was, after all a work truck, it's not bad. I can clean the interior myself, and I have a body/paint man that can weld the holes shut in the roof and fix the dents for a great price.

Also, it's had the muffler removed. It's got a straight pipe installed in it's place. It sounds great too! Will this cause any problems???

****This is the best thing you can do for it. It lowers the EGT's and makes her sound just right...****

My uncle wants 13,000 for it. Kelly Blue Book lists this truck, with all of its options in GOOD condition (4 out of 5 stars) for 16,800, and in FAIR condition (3 out of 5 stars) for 15,100. This is Private Party Value. What do you think?!

***When you hear it run, whats your gut feeling? Does it sound mechanicly "smooth", or does it sound like a box marbles? It sounds a bit high with the body damage and the low maintenance...I dont like hearing that the filter was sooo dirty it tripped the sucky-sensor.....that shows it was not maintained or loved. Consider this an abused truck.****

I have the previous owners number and will call him about the truck. Just to inquire about maintenance, etc.....

***Get the tuner! Is the convertor original? When was the tranny flushed last? Do the tranny every 50-60K miles for longer life. What oil did he ask for at the quick change shop?***

Also, I took it out on the highway and the overhead MPG computer said 23.5 mpg at 74 MPH. I know these things can be off by as much as 4-5mpg, but I thought this was still good.

***Especailly with a tuner, that thing is worthless. Consider it a "Lie-O-Meter". With no tuner its pretty close.....within 1 MPG.***


Do you think it's worth it? I say YES, but really I don't know. BUT only because I don't know what could be causing the "rough" condition. Or the trans shudder.

***It may just take a good servicing, injector cleaner, fuel/air filter, EGR re-route, clean out the intercooler......and she should get back up and run. Add a whicked wheel and a tuner from the last 12-18 months and your really going to love it. Can you say 310-330 RWHP and 600 ft/lb of TQ? I can do a quarter in 16.8 with my 8,400 lb Excursion.

HELP ME GUYS.......

I really need the 4 doors this truck has, My 94 Supercab just ain't cutting it with my 2 boys stuffed in the back.......

Thanks as usual......

 

[ProF100]

I think the mileage is off...

Mine is a '01, 4x4, CC, SWB, 3.73, 6-speed and get about 18 under normal driving. I can get 20-21 on level ground at 55mph. 70-80 mph nets about 16.5-17, 80-90 mph nets about 15-16. I have a 4-pos chip and it hurt the mileage about .5 mpg, but the power is great. All the PSD's I test drove sucked on takeoff. I went ahead and bought one and as soon as I bought the chip, the low-end power is where it should be now. My truck doesn't start pulling hard until about 1700 rpm, then it pulls HARD.

David

 

[jbozzelle]

Larry,

Thanks,

Talked to the original owner today. Truck was serviced every 7K (Rotella). Trans was serviced. Front end was done 30K ago. he said he wouldn't hesitate to jump back in it and drive it anywhere. He just bought a new one because he could.

Explain to me how the intercooler will clean itself out? Seems like i would have to spray something in there?!

How easy is it to change the turbo wheel? balancing probs after?

It only smoked lightly when I stomped on it. Nothing major, actually smoked less than my dad's 02 with the Superchips h/held programmer on the 40hp setting. This truck has a chip in the PCM.

Will the chip cause a rough running feeling? I've heard yes due to the injector advance....

How big of a job to clean the injectors. Can I do it myself or just swap them out?

Also, when i was driving it with the dirty air filter it was sluggish and sounded like it was either dumping boost or sucking air from somewhere after the filter housing. Sounded liek a big air leak under the dash... Any ideas..... Once it reached about 2-2500rpms she took off hard. Maybe it's just the chip?

I think I'm going to buy it. The guy seemed honest on the phone. just didn't seem like he was telling me what I wanted to hear. Plus my uncle's been friends with him forever.

Only thing I didn't like was it seemed louder than my dad's 02. maybe it's just the mileage. My dad said it reminded him of his 97 PSD.

 

[DiscountPowerParts]

Larry,

Thanks,

Talked to the original owner today. Truck was serviced every 7K (Rotella). Trans was serviced. Front end was done 30K ago. he said he wouldn't hesitate to jump back in it and drive it anywhere. He just bought a new one because he could.

****Rotella is about the most recomended oil in the 7.3 PSD. It makes the injectors quiet, and blackstone reports show it to be a good oil for standard service intervals. I am doing Amsoil3000 with 15K mile intervals and using Blackstone lab to verify I am good. Keep with the Delvac, its fine.****

Explain to me how the intercooler will clean itself out? Seems like i would have to spray something in there?!

**** The Intercooler will clean itself out in a couple weeks just from the heat and and the vollume of air. As time goes by and you drive it, it will eventually blow MOST of the crud from the EGR system out. Get rid of that EGR, its a mess...run it into the wheel well. Once you get a fitting and hose, it will take 5-10 minuts to do this. take a look at it and see what you can come up, it should be cheap fix...as in home remedy.****

How easy is it to change the turbo wheel? balancing probs after?

****You can have the thing re-ballanced, but 95% of the folks on earth do not and they are all ok. The new wheel you want is a much more agressive 2 stage turbine that has 5 primary blades....the new style one that you have now has I think 9 primary blades, and each one is significantly less agressive than the 5 blade from the early years. These are really inexpensive to buy, and easy to change. Use a plastic srew driver handle wraped with a rag to hold the blade while you take the nut off with an impact. Same thing back together with the new one. While your looking, push/pull the shaft and feel for end play. There should be a few thousandths, but not an eigth inch oir anything crazy. If you see that the blades have hit the housing, your bushings are shot. Most folks say its over, and its non rebuildable....but you can yank that turbo when and if the bushings go bad and send it to RS Diesel Performance in Townsville PA and they will overhaul it. I can get you the compressor wheel.****

It only smoked lightly when I stomped on it. Nothing major, actually smoked less than my dad's 02 with the Superchips h/held programmer on the 40hp setting. This truck has a chip in the PCM.

****That sounds about correct****

Will the chip cause a rough running feeling? I've heard yes due to the injector advance....

****Only if its a lame program, today you can get a SCT tune or Edge tune that runs smooth and makes 100 hp...and works even in brutal cold winter. Look at the chip, what brand is printed on the chip? Let me know.****

How big of a job to clean the injectors. Can I do it myself or just swap them out?

****Use Diesel Klean from Wal-Mart. White or grey bottle, one is a cetane booster as well as cleaner, other is cleaner only. Both are anti-gel for cold weather.****

Also, when i was driving it with the dirty air filter it was sluggish and sounded like it was either dumping boost or sucking air from somewhere after the filter housing. Sounded liek a big air leak under the dash... Any ideas..... Once it reached about 2-2500rpms she took off hard. Maybe it's just the chip?

***That sounds alot like mine....the turbo gets into its airflow map and takes off! Under that, the thing does not really make much boost, and your not really making a ton of power. At about 1.8K to 2.2K your turbo goes from a few pounds of boost to 17 lbs of boost in a few hundred RPM. Normal. Every tune has its own personality, so the chip your running may not be the best overall power tune, it may be more of a top end tune. Sounds like an older tune....I am intersted in hearing who's tune that is. I am running a Bank's Big Hoss myself, and its not the best....I plan on upgrading to one of the better custom burns out there. If you ever want to go that way, and get into a new style tune I can help direct you.****

I think I'm going to buy it. The guy seemed honest on the phone. just didn't seem like he was telling me what I wanted to hear. Plus my uncle's been friends with him forever.

Only thing I didn't like was it seemed louder than my dad's 02. maybe it's just the mileage. My dad said it reminded him of his 97 PSD.

***If it seems louder, take the boot off of the compressor inlet and look at the blades with a flashlight. Do you see 5 major blades and 5 minor blades? If so, it already has an aggressive wheel in the compressor. Count the bigest blades and tell me how many you see. Or, take a digi picture and email it to me.****

 

[jbozzelle]

Thanks Larry,

I'm calling today to tell him I want it. probably go get it this weekend.

What's your thoughts on the Superchips/Hypertech H/Held programmer? My Dad loves his. I like it too. Both of us are not looking to make racecars out of our trucks, but we like the extra power vs mileage they provide.

Thanks again

 

[DiscountPowerParts]

"What's your thoughts on the Superchips/Hypertech H/Held programmer?"

I sell tham all...Edge, Predator, Bulydog, SCT, Innovative Diesel, SuperChips, HyperTech, Bank's, BD-Diesel..... I think the Superchips 1705 (335.99) is better than the Hypertech.

I also feel the Edge Evolution EEF1000 ($320.99) is better than both.

The Edge has more of a fan base, more power and adjustability,and helps the stock tranny live longer than the Superchips. The superchip is good, and I can hook you up with that also, but its not as recomended as the Edge in any stretch of the mind...

Then you have custom tunes. If you want to spend more, around $425 I can get you into a Innovative Diesel custom tune. For the 7.3...I hate to say it, the custom tunes really are not worth it unless your going for all out, hard core power...than I would steer you to a guy named Jody Tipton. For your application the Edge Evolution is the way to go. You can also add an inexpensive Bully Dog outlook monitor #40173 ($309.99), its a digital display that has 4 windows that you can set to show you any 4 of various parameters monitored by the engines PCM.

An EGT probe can be added to your exh manifold in about 1 hour at home with a drill and tap, and the outlook monitor will allow you to keep an eye on EGT's while towing.

 

[jbozzelle]

Well, I bought it. One new air filter later it runs like it should. I also added a half bottle of the gray Diesel Kleen to it when I filled it up today. The o/head computer showed anywhere from 19-22mpg on the interstate while driving today depending on how fast I'm driving.

Here's a few things that I need to fix on it:

There is a noticeable tick from the driver's side. Not sure if it's an exhaust leak or maybe a loose rocker?????? Cracked manifold???


When the cruise is set it seems to hunt up/down in rpm. You can't see it on the speedo or tach, but you can hear it in the whine of the turbo. just doesn't seem right. Does this sound like the speed sensor in the rear? Does it have one there? My 94 F150 did.


Any help is appreciated guys.......

Thanks

 

[DiscountPowerParts]

The bully dog stand alone monitor is actually a #41300. I listed the wrong number above.

As for the hunting, are you sure you are not hearing the diesel fuel and defual with engine/tranny load? The RPM's will stay dang near the same exact number, but on level you may be at 20-30% fuel with 3-5 lbs boost, and on a slight hill you may be 30-60% fuel with 8-12 lbs boost...and you get a harder pull and you may see 70-100% fuel with a 14-17 lb boost. If you modify it with a tuner you will see 100%+ fuel (compared to stock) and upto 26-28 lbs boost. The speed sensor usually would cause other issues....tranny shifting, OD light, brake light... but I never heard of it hunting while driving due to a speed sensor.