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Discussion Starter #1
Any of you all running a steel mid plate? If so what thickness is it? I'm trying to stay away from a .250" aluminum plate so I won't have to either buy a new converter or have mine modified with longer mounting lugs. I built one out of 16GA and it just didn't seem stiff enough. I'm in the process of building one out of 11GA (.120") and plan on using it without the stock seperator plate and building a .060" spacer for the crank. Thanks for any help in advance.
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thank you Ace. I looked at his plate and looked it up on the ATI site and that won't work for me. I already have the Ford pattern Ultra Bell and don't need an adapter from the Chevy pattern. So what thickness is everybody running in thier Rails/Alterds?
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I use a 1/8" steel mid-plate in my door car.
Thanks Dave.....

I've run the .060" in all the door cars that I've built, but they are captured all along the top and sides. My Dragster is only attached at two points at the top and two points at the bottom. Like I said, I tried the .060" route and it was just too flimsy so I'm trying the .120" (11GA) mild steel. Any one else????:)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It would still work. All you do is run the bolts all the way from the ultrabell to the block...

Ace
Thank you Ace........but like I said, I'm trying to stay away from the 1/4" or 1/2" thick pieces so I can run my present converter.......$800+ is just not in the race budget right now.....
Rob
 

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I run a 1/8 ms plate plus the stock block plate with my JW bell. I also run the JW flexplate and the little adapter that fits in the pilot hole of the crank. The little one that JW sends usually gets loose and falls out the first time you pull the converter so I have made my own that has a little more meat to it. End up pretty close with a stock dimension PG converter. The JW by itself does not locate the starter very well so you could see some issues with gear mesh if you dont use the original plate as well.

dkp
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks Boss.
I tried my JW bell, JW flex plate and the mid plate that I made and the starter location seemed pretty good, not much noise at all. As far as the snout adapter goes, I had to mill a few thou off the OD so it would fit my crank.....and I got overzealous and ended up .008" under size. FYI, the snout adapter (that I received, I'm not sure who made it, it came with the converter, flex plate and complete JW tranny) had to be warmed and was an interference fit on the converter hub. It appeared to be designed to stay on the converter when it was pulled. Have you got any pics of the one you built? (since I have to make one now). Here are a couple of pics of both of the mid plates:
Rob
The first .060" plate


And the in process .120" plate
 

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Nice job I see you have the starter hole in the mid plate already. that should help. All my parts are either in the car or in the trailer that is several hours away from me just now but When I get a chance I could try to send you a pic. My adapter came from JW with the bell I think. Not much to it. Just fits in the crank about 3/8 or so and sticks out the back maybe 1/4 inch. fits the converter loose. I usually end up with loctite on the crank fit but even then it works loose sometimes.

btw. guess it may not be much of an issue in a pipe rack but you will not be able to remove the engine with out pulling the trans first with that plate. I removed the center part of mine and can leave the trans in the car if I need to pull the engine.

dkp
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Yeah, you've got the removing thing right. In fact I have to put the engine and trans in as a unit because of the starter. The JW bell has a more pronounced belly around the starter and I thought that it would not fit the chassis at all. I ended up having to move them forward 2 1/8" from where the small Chevy was located in order to get clearance for the starter bulge in the bell. For a while I thought that the starter wouldn't fit in amongst the tubing and braces but with a little "relieving" on the starter housing it went right in. FWIW, I'm running a Mark Williams coupler and he recommends 1/8" clearance between the lock ring and the trans seal to allow for chassis flex (and I've got a TON of that!) and after looking the set-up over I decided that I didn't like the idea of the spinning lock ring rubbing on the trans seal, so I went to the bearing store and bought (for the paltry sum of $11) a Torrington thrust bearing complete with thrust plates, with a 1 1/2" ID and it fit like a glove....no more torn up seal faces. If it only lasts a season without lube (because it's open to the elements) so be it, $11 is affordable in my book. EVERYTHING in this car is a shoehorn....being that it was designed around a SBC.
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm running an 090 mid plate on my altered, cant say how well it does or doesn't do yet as i haven't ran it but we'll see
Thanks Monsta. Are you going to shim the flex plate back the .030" (difference between a stock separator plate and your .090" mid plate) or are you going with longer ears on the converter? If your .090" plate works then my .120" should work OK too. Keep me informed if you would please sir.
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hiya Rick, long time no hear! Yeah, I looked at that aluminum plate and for the price it's a deal. Hell, I can't barely buy the aluminum up here for that price! As far as running your converter .060" out from where it's suppose to register, my close friend and racing team co-hort owns a tranny shop, a pretty reputable one, and I asked him about running my converter a measley .060 forward when I started building the .120" plate and I got a resounding NO out of him. And I believe him. He said that when you slide the converter forward to bolt it to the flex plate the distance is a calculated and fixed one. I'm not saying that it might not work in all cases.....but is it worth the price of a converter, flexplate,front pump and what ever else it takes to put it all back together when you can just shim the flexplate back with a .060" shim? The last midplate that I bought for my T/S truck CAME with a shim. In fact, if you want, I'll build you one and send it to you. I have to build one for me any way......and I can practice on yours first!!!! LOL Just kidding.....Lemme know!

PS....Dig the Moon caps hanging on your wall!
Rob
 

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The plate you're buildin' looks like some damn nice work Rob. If you wind up making a
'practice shim', I'll take it off your hands, yes. Napa used to do a .050, but I can't
find it anymore. The next thing is (I think) Comp Engineering @ about 35 bucks.


That pic was in a friends shop, the place is kind of like walkin' into 1950. I'll try to get
a picture of the front of the place one of these days. Cool stuff.
 
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