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Couple of restrictions to this. One, you're gonna wanna build your stand up a bit to handle the rotating forces at play here. It's no so much a problem idling, but snap decel and quick accel can make a for a problem pretty quick. I did this once with a friend and his 302 when I was much younger. Engine threw rod 3, and it got small in that garage pretty fast. Two, does a flywheel fit with your engine bolted to the stand? Some don't. Three, there's no where to mount a radiator, small fuel tank of some variety, any gauges to monitor vitals, or a battery.

Moral of the story, best to build a proper engine run stand.
 

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Can I break my engine in on the stand? Not going to have truck ready to drive for months, don't want to let it set that long, it is a roller engine. thanks
Three reactions from me. First is that I am not a believer in "soft" break-ins (a different discussion), which is what you'd get with a stand break-in. Two, a full-run stand (even if only idle) is a LOT of work and some expense… for what, exactly? Worse, if you don't build it for running to full temperature, your runs will all be cold, which is yet more detrimental to your break-in, especially ring-seating. So it has to be robust with strength, stability (floor anchors), fuel, coolant, gauges, blah, blah.

Finally, you gain nothing by running it on a stand, and arguably some detriments, such as-above. The engine is fine sitting there, assuming assembly lube was used. Crate engines often spend years waiting for use, so don't freak. Because I'm anal about engine condition, I would give the crank a 3/4-turn every couple weeks to help prevent valve spring set, where they would normally get that set by constant motion and heat in a normal break-in. It will take about 4 months of the rotations for it to set in the original position again.

However, if it was not prepped during the build, that's another story, and you do not have protective assembly lube to wash-out. :cautious: In that case and IMO, I would repeat the crank turns as-above but also hit the oil pump with your drill while you do to build oil pressure, and rotate the crank 2+3/4 turns to distribute the oil and set it with new valve positions.

While I'm sure most don't worry about it, I hope this will satisfy your urge to protect the engine, while saving the break-in for when it can be done properly under load for better results, and with greater safety and little extra effort. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Couple of restrictions to this. One, you're gonna wanna build your stand up a bit to handle the rotating forces at play here. It's no so much a problem idling, but snap decel and quick accel can make a for a problem pretty quick. I did this once with a friend and his 302 when I was much younger. Engine threw rod 3, and it got small in that garage pretty fast. Two, does a flywheel fit with your engine bolted to the stand? Some don't. Three, there's no where to mount a radiator, small fuel tank of some variety, any gauges to monitor vitals, or a battery.

Moral of the story, best to build a proper engine run stand.
I'm going to put it in truck frame with trans mounted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What did you find that was causing the engine to be so hard to turn over?
Loosened the rod caps and it made no difference, it may be the when machine shop fitted the pistons they got it a little tight, I put oil in cylinders and soaked top of pistons with I installed them, when I found out it was hard to turn I put assembly lube on the cylinder walls, didn't change.
 

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Loosened the rod caps and it made no difference, it may be the when machine shop fitted the pistons they got it a little tight, I put oil in cylinders and soaked top of pistons with I installed them, when I found out it was hard to turn I put assembly lube on the cylinder walls, didn't change.
You’re engine so do what you want but you may want to disassemble the engine and figure out what’s causing the turning torque issue before you just put it in the truck and let it rip.
 

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All i can say is what i would do and that would be to spend the time now to disassemble it to find what is wrong. Might be something simple to fix now that would be major trouble if ignored.

That being said it's just my opinion and you can do whatever you want.

Also if all was verified as good i would wait to start it till i could drive it. I don't see much benefit in run stands and not being able to put a load on the engine to help seat rings
 
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