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Engine Choice

4K views 24 replies 7 participants last post by  Colt 
#1 ·
I've been looking for an engine for my 1953 F100 for a while, I still have the running original in it, but I may sell it or keep it for nostalgia. I bought 1986 302 EFI that was running when pulled for $365 CAD on a stand with a chain on the advice of my mechanic/friend. I really didn't want a 302 for my first project and this truck but my mechanic convinced me it would be a cheaper and decent build. Turns out, my step dad has some engines laying around his garage... he has a 5.0 EFI, a 351M/400 and another what appears to be 351. My heart tells me I want a 460 and I found one about an hour from here in an 87-90 Coachmen RV. The guy will sell me the whole running RV for $800 CAD and I can take the engine out. Does anyone know what tranny and rear end was in this vehicle and if they have any value for use or sale? How do I know this is a 460 and is there any value in the 4 engines I have laying around?
 

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#3 ·
Class A Motorhome 88-90 Ford F53 chassis would be 460 EFI with E4OD. Probably a Dana 80 rear end with 5:13. 10 bolt hub center w/disc brake
Class A motorhome 87-90 Oshkosh chassis would be 460 carb with C6. Probably a 4.11 rear end.

Richard
[/QUOTEWow, fast response... thanks a lot Richard!! I think I’m gonna like this forum. It’s definitely the carbureted engine.
 
#4 ·
A 460 in there would be very cool. I think with the style of your truck (very sweet by the way), I'd want to keep it old school and carbureted, but that's just a personal choice. Avoid doing the 351/400M, they're fine but limited market especially for performance, and resale if you ever do go to sell it is going to be much less. They were mid 70s smog engines. The other 351 your step dad has, if it's a Cleveland, would be cool, too, and there's plenty of performance options for that engine along with the 460. Easiest way to tell a Cleveland from the 351/400M is that they will both have 8 bolt valve covers, but the Cleveland has a small block bellhousing pattern for the trans. 351/400 will have the same bellhousing pattern as a 429/460. If the 351 is a Windsor, easiest way to tell that is the valve covers will have 6 bolt valve covers and the thermostat housing goes in the intake manifold (351C or 351/400M have dry intakes, t-stat goes into the block). A Windsor will be the cheapest to build and they make good power, but they're kinda like a SBC. Everybody has one. Again, just my opinion.
 
#7 ·
Thanks, I agree the 460 would be cool. I'll probably sell off those other engines to try and get some money to start the 460 build. I've added some pics to show the work I have done to the truck. I've added a Mustang II IFS with air bags, power steering and brakes, and some new rims. Gonna do the rear end next, convert to 12V and then the engine. I am keeping the 239 flat-head in it for now, will hate selling that engine, but I may have to instead of keeping something I'll never use.
 

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#6 ·
Thanks for the response... gas is definitely a major consideration. The truck will not be a daily driver however it will be driven a lot or as much as our Canadian summers will allow. I'm leaning towards the 460 for the wow factor. I love the 302, but there are a lot out there.
 
#9 ·
Great idea. but I called the guy selling the 460 in the RV and he dropped the price to $700 for the whole RV. Bylaw said he needs to move it so I'm hoping to drive it home this weekend. I'll try to sell some stuff off the RV to make some money back such as the rims, generator, propane tank, rad etc. So,,, I'll have a running 302 and a running 460 with tranny to decide between and I will probably choose the 460. I did some research on the 337 and it seems like a pretty underappreciated engine... it would definitely fit my project well being a flat-head with decent power, thanks for the suggestion!
 
#10 ·
So I'm all in on the 460... I am picking it up this weekend. I could be the luckiest guy in ford land right now... my mechanic/friend texted me to bring $800 CAD roughly $600 USD to the shop. When I got there, there was a brand new pair of AFR Aluminum Heads for a big block Ford 385 series... I think he said they were 315CC/75CC. Turns out a guy called him today talking about his Mustang project that he gave up on and that he now had these aluminum heads to get rid of, my buddy jumped on it and they decided on the price. Then the guy says he was working on a Ford 427 High Riser... and my friend asks what his plans are for the block, the guy wanted to get rid of it, so he just gave it to us hahahaha. Said it was coated in WD40 in a bag in his garage. Not sure what I'm gonna do with it but what a score... this stuff never happens. When I get the block, I'll post some pics.
 

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#11 ·
The casting pictured appears to be a procomp / speedmaster.
Is there a engraved serial number running along the valve cover rail near the center?



SJ
used 2b RHP


.
 
#16 ·
I'm sure you've seen the sticky at the top of this forum, but if not: ProComp BBF flow numbers large valve too...

Scotty and guys like Carl build them to be good. 500 hp will be cake with them, but don't trust the parts and assembly "from the factory" on them.
Thanks... I ended up reading the copious amounts of threads on this popular topic and with your advice I’m probably gonna keep the procomps and replace the parts and assembly.
 
#17 ·
My 429 block is in getting machined... I'm going to bore .030 and use either a 4.150 or a 4.300 crank. Any suggestions as to which crank would be better? From the reading I've done a 4.300 crank 521ci seems to be a popular build. I'm leaning that way over the 4.150 crank 502ci build. Suggestions and reasons for choosing one crank over the other would be very helpful on my first build.
 
#18 ·
Congratulations on the truck and 460 combo., that's going to be a brutal ride.?

Between the two strokes you mentioned, I'd go with the 4.3. It's a super common stroke and tons of parts to support that particular kit. Besides, the 4.15 nets you the same cubes as a readily available Chevy big block. ? Can't have that. lol. You might even consider a 4.5 stroke for even more lowdown torquie goodness.
But, the 4.3 may be the best compromise for longevity and power.

I'm sure one of the gurus on here will point you in the right direction.

Best of fortune to you for whatever you end up with.?
 
#20 ·
When utilizing cylinder heads that move some good air the difference in a 521 and 545 for peak rpm is about 300.
The 521 will peak about 500 rpm lower than a 460.

The limiting factor here is the Procomp heads.


SJ
used 2b RHP

.
 
#21 ·
When utilizing cylinder heads that move some good air the difference in a 521 and 545 for peak rpm is about 300.
The 521 will peak about 500 rpm lower than a 460.

The limiting factor here is the Procomp heads.


SJ
used 2b RHP

.
Thanks your Madness... do you suggest the 4.150, the 4.300 or the 4.500 crank. I'm starting with a 429 block, I'm boring .030 and my goals are not the 1/4 mile or any type of racing. I'm looking for my 53 f100 to produce 500+ HP and be able to run on the highway. More than likely I will have a 6 speed tranny (manual) perhaps a t56. I'm not sure which gears I should use, again, I'm not racing so any suggestions on gears in the rear for my application would be greatly appreciated. I was thinking 3:73's as I would like to run comfortably at 80 miles per hour on a Canadian highway but also have power to burn the tires off the line for fun which should not be hard as the f100 has a light rear end.

As far as the Procomp Heads... the guy who is machining my engine said he will look at them to see if they are any good. He said he can take off a valve spring and be able to tell if the cast is decent as the newer stuff, now just Speedmaster is much more preferred than the older Procomp Speedmaster stuff.

I got some new toys from Summit today... I got a 140 amp chrome alternator from tough stuff, a flamethrower coil and a headlight switch to help me with my conversion from 6V to 12V.

I'm pulling a 9" diff from a 73 ford pickup on Saturday, I'll get it sandblasted soon, and see what kind of shape it is in. That will allow me to dry fit the 4 link and get my rear end started.

I am loving this first build...

Thanks for all the help Mad Porter, and to everyone who is helping me on my first build.
 
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