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sLEEVE

you can always have the block sleeved.

You would want to look at how bad the damage is and if the current block you are using at the time has enough money and modifications put into it, to warrant not just buying a new eliminator etc..

Hope this helps.
 

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Frankie, those are the popular overbores. Some blocks after sonic testing have been shown to go to 4.5" bores. Sleeving is always a way to fix also, and usually results in a stronger hole than the as cast bores. If you ruin a sleeved bore, you can make a couple of passes with a MIG welder and slide the old out and cool a new sleeve and slide it in for a quick fix. Sleeving of more than one or two bores and you should start to look for a new block, as cost becomes prohibitive. Exceptions are factory 4 bolt blocks that have value, or A460 blocks that are spendy to begin with. Sonic testing by a person with knowlege of the Ford blocks is the only way to tell if there is enough room for more bore. My D9TE block in my truck sonic tested to a safe 4.5 bore. It is at 4.42 now so I have a couple more bore jobs left in it. 4.44 and 4.5 are left, both are common shelf pistons.
 

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Blue Thunder said:
you can always have the block sleeved.

You would want to look at how bad the damage is and if the current block you are using at the time has enough money and modifications put into it, to warrant not just buying a new eliminator etc..

Hope this helps.
schmitty said:
Frankie, those are the popular overbores. Some blocks after sonic testing have been shown to go to 4.5" bores. Sleeving is always a way to fix also, and usually results in a stronger hole than the as cast bores. If you ruin a sleeved bore, you can make a couple of passes with a MIG welder and slide the old out and cool a new sleeve and slide it in for a quick fix. Sleeving of more than one or two bores and you should start to look for a new block, as cost becomes prohibitive. Exceptions are factory 4 bolt blocks that have value, or A460 blocks that are spendy to begin with. Sonic testing by a person with knowlege of the Ford blocks is the only way to tell if there is enough room for more bore. My D9TE block in my truck sonic tested to a safe 4.5 bore. It is at 4.42 now so I have a couple more bore jobs left in it. 4.44 and 4.5 are left, both are common shelf pistons.
Thanks guys, that was very helpful info! Heres another one for you :D Lets say I go .080 over, is the power potential of the block compromised at that bore? How about 4.5 with a tested block? Also what is a safe power/RPM level for a good production block?

I'm looking into building something big for a street truck.
 

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If you want BIG go with an A460 block which can go 4.625 bore. 632ci is easy. Not cheap but easily done. Factory blocks are tough, but everything has limits. I would go aftermarket if you want to get wild. You can do 800hp in a factory block and it will be OK but everything depends on how you abuse it and what rpm level you are shooting for. Cap walk is what normally ruins these blocks, everything else seems to hold up fine. Don't kid yourself, 800hp is a lot more than most people have ever tried to drive, and steering is usually done with the right side loud pedal. My 552 is around 600hp and it would be wicked on the street.
 

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schmitty said:
If you want BIG go with an A460 block which can go 4.625 bore. 632ci is easy. Not cheap but easily done. Factory blocks are tough, but everything has limits. I would go aftermarket if you want to get wild. You can do 800hp in a factory block and it will be OK but everything depends on how you abuse it and what rpm level you are shooting for. Cap walk is what normally ruins these blocks, everything else seems to hold up fine. Don't kid yourself, 800hp is a lot more than most people have ever tried to drive, and steering is usually done with the right side loud pedal. My 552 is around 600hp and it would be wicked on the street.
I would like 600-650hp but the tq is really what matters. About how much tq do you think you're cranking out? What tranny do you have?
 

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FIRST I would urge anyone to perform a SEARCH to look for information related to their question. The intent is to have universally agreed upon FAQs, but the reality is that you'll learn more by going through posts for the full story on any question.
Chilly,
I tried your advice and found lots of stuff on oil pressure but not an answer to my question. Maybe you or another reader can help.
I've a '78 460 with about 128,000 miles on it. I can't seem to find anything that gives a safe minimum oil pressure. Running straight 50 wt currently. Oil pressure is 60 psi cold, but drops to about 18 psi hot, at idle in gear (about 650 rpm). I wanna run it until have the money to overhaul but don't want to hurt the crank. (I also talk nice to it and pat the valve covers in the hope that helps.)
Eli
 

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http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/members/nieuport28.html

Roland and all~
I recall reading that the big block Lincoln (Ford) of 460 inch displacement was listed as developing some 200 H.P. at 2100 RPM~ the torque then would be around 500#s~ well short of the 600 or so the Hisso/Woolsey produced. I've always wanted to 'short rod' or stroke one of the 460's to see if it wouldn't be feasible to get a bit more torque at an RPM of around 1800. A turbo might be a good option~ although I have a tendency to think of them as working best when RPMs are relatively high~
A prop of a just slightly smaller diameter than the original 96" or so should work out well on the engine.
The 'stock' 460 with accessories is listed at around 750#s. This weight would be greatly reduced with the use of aluminum heads and manifold and tube exhaust headers (cast iron in original form)~ The Hisso, I think, was around 585#s, but had several hundred #s of guns and ammo mounted about it. The weight then shouldn't be an issue.
I'm assuming that there are boat 'bell housings' readily available which incorporate propeller drive shaft systems for the BB Fords. They definitely were made for the 427s and other more exotic Fords and the bolt pattern might well be identical.
All in all, it might be a feasible way to get a 'direct drive' engine onto the front end of a SE or SPAD? Any comments appreciated~
I think I'll try to accumulate a few more ideas and unless I find the premise completely disproved, I'll soon be in the market for a few components~ especially the boat bell housing adaptor~ If anyone knows of the source of a marine adaptor for the BB Ford I'd appreciate a lead~
Best to all, Lee. Nieuport http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/members/nieuport28.html
The above was written in the address listed above. This has caused me considerable trouble as I had not studied the Ford, Mercury @ Lincoln 429-460 engine to even the smallest extent. But I have been studying it intensely the last few weeks it was originally place in the “theaerodrome” August 20 1970 but I and others paid it no attention. But I have in the past month done a lot of research on the 460 version. Especially the one with fuel injection as an aircraft is a 3 dimensional vehicle. Trying to get a carburetor to do this was a problem until someone solved the fuel shift problem. Finding that aluminum heads and manifolds were very available was very surprising to me!
Question (#1), has anyone to this groups knowledge tried to place a properly prepared 460 either with E.F.I. or a carburetor in an aircraft?
Statement (#2), it is also obvious that the engine has enough background to support a dry sump system, tubing exhaust, and several other things of importance.
Statement (#3), the engine this would be interesting to replace would be the World War #1 engine the 718 cu. in. Hispano-Suiza V-8. To do this would require a torque of 617 ft. lbs. at an output of 235 horsepower at 2000.This would require a gear and pinion of sufficient strength and to reduce the r.p.m to the 2000 required at the propeller.
This engine, Hispano-Suiza was a troublesome engine, as probably they all were, at that time. With 180 degree crankshaft (unbalanced primary) and the usual secondary shake. Oiling problems due to a design error of not putting an oil pressure relief valve on the oil pump output this blowing out the oil lines.
Yours, M.L. Anderson
 

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Aircraft using the 429-460 engine.

I will try to find that book but one that old is not very easy. I have books back to 1907 on the balancing of engines,V-8s in particular, but it took me about 5 years to find that one. However you just never know what will just seem to pop up when you have given up.
Yours, M. L. Anderson :)
 

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As with most forums I visit, the same dumb old questions get old quick and eventually no one is interested enough to respond. In addition, the same dumb old questions clutter up the board. They waste time of the more experienced members since the subject line of these questions usually doesn't capture the question well. It's a pet peeve of mine to see the same questions over and over again. It's as if the person is too lazy to search and wants someone else to do the work for them. Although, I'm guilty of asking them myself on occasion.
mybe you should get a smaller bed so you don't wake up on the wrong side. just a thought. lol
 

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Nice work on the research. I know it has been quite a long time since this was posted but only a few of the links work now..


 

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If you make up your mind that the engine has limits of exhaust
ports, iron heads, and stock rods and let it go at that you can
relax and enjoy the ride.
Just dont expect it to run like you spent a lot of money on it
and let it go at that. Its big enough to have a problem with
the bite and pull hard so dont try to destroy it.
If you get used to the way it runs so you can feel what its doing you will feel it start to feel "ready to shift" around
5 or 55 hundred so dont get heroic - it will go further than that
but it will eat a lot and spoil the fun.
Be very sure about oiling and if the valves loosen - lash them
tighter - so they dont loosen and hammer, and just enjoy the
touch and feel of the big block.
 

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I agree with the links not working???

Is there any way these links can be fixed? Thanks
 

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Intake valve size doesn't have to be compelled to be exaggerated at this level, untainted valves ar steered over heavily used stockers
Port work on the exhaust aspect ought to be thought of necessary at this level. Thermactor removed, bowl intermingled to the larger seat, casting flash removed, exhaust bolt boss two-dimensional. the higher the work, the higher it'll run........:)
----------------
2013 MERCEDES BENZ SL-CLASS
 

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Hey guys I'm sure you've all heard this a million times, but I just got an 86 f250 with the 460, and I live here in the great state of California... Supposedly everything on the truck is smog legal, except for the carburetor. I've looked on summit, jegs, and searched around on here but have found no smog legal carb. Does anyone have any hints or anything on where I could find one? I'd really appreciate it
 
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