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Discussion Starter #21
Thanks for the info on the fuel line, I will take a look at that !
Has anyone here actually run the car with the rockers off? I have turned the engine over on the starter but running it is likely to result in the biggest mess of oil everywhere I can imagine! It runs pretty deep in the head and squirts out of the push rods ! I need a persepx rocker cover or one 2ft tall with no top !
 

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Personally, make your own. Get a set of the tall ones and cut the top out, use plexiglass pattern, drill holes, weld nuts on the inside, make a gasket and there you go. I have an older "Circle Track mag that Smokey Yunick did a bunch of plexiglass cutouts on and engine and used an electric motor to spin it up to 4,000 RPMs. He found some very interesting things that went against everything everyone had thought all along.
 

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Will be very interested to find what this is .. I haven't seen mention of the distributor , could it be dry inside ?? Just a thought.. But then it does sound to be at engine speed so maybe not
 

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Did you check the thermactor plugs in the heads? A pinhole in one of them could easily make the squeak/whistling noise
 

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Will be very interested to find what this is .. I haven't seen mention of the distributor , could it be dry inside ?? Just a thought.. But then it does sound to be at engine speed so maybe not
Interesting. Could be the shaft bottom rubbing in the block when it heats up and expands due to lack of oil. Just one little spot that is a little off is all it would take.
 

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Interesting. Could be the shaft bottom rubbing in the block when it heats up and expands due to lack of oil. Just one little spot that is a little off is all it would take.
I was thinking possibly a dry bush in the distributor itself maybe ? Or yes the lower distributor shaft is lubed from the front cam bearing , was the cam bearing set back the right amount to allow oil to feed ?

Just throwing the idea out there to help find the issue
 

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I'd mark the dist for timing and pull it and completely clean it and check for wear/burn marks. One thing on an older dist is the play they develop with the brass bushing and the alum housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Thanks for all the ideas. I did wonder about the disti at one stage but having taken the sump off, the rockers off a dozen times, belts off etc I decided to just run it up and down the highway for an hour.....result....exactly the same !
All runs smoothly but squeaking, so tried my stethoscope yet again. The best I can get to is that the noise is possibly strongest when I hold it on the bit of head between the rocker covers and the inlet manifold, possibly strongest in the middle cylinders on the right hand side but also noticeable on the left hand side at the back.
I have decided to remove the pushrod guides and run it as I have always been suspicious of them.
Can anyone confirm it is fine to run the engine without the pushrod guide plates on adjustable rockers? I I still cant get my head round why the rockers would stay in place without guide plates as in my mind they can just rotate to anywhere and fall off the valve !
 

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Discussion Starter #29
oh and sorry I forgot to ask what are 'thermactor plugs in the heads' ? I have never heard of them !
 

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Thanks for all the ideas. I did wonder about the disti at one stage but having taken the sump off, the rockers off a dozen times, belts off etc I decided to just run it up and down the highway for an hour.....result....exactly the same !
All runs smoothly but squeaking, so tried my stethoscope yet again. The best I can get to is that the noise is possibly strongest when I hold it on the bit of head between the rocker covers and the inlet manifold, possibly strongest in the middle cylinders on the right hand side but also noticeable on the left hand side at the back.
I have decided to remove the pushrod guides and run it as I have always been suspicious of them.
Can anyone confirm it is fine to run the engine without the pushrod guide plates on adjustable rockers? I I still cant get my head round why the rockers would stay in place without guide plates as in my mind they can just rotate to anywhere and fall off the valve !

What kind of rockers are you running?

If they are full roller rockers you must utilize proper guide plates.

The OEM cast iron rail rocker are self aligning and do NOT need guide plates.


SJ
used 2b RHP


.
 

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Thermactor plugs are on the exhaust side of the heads on each end, they look like little freeze plugs. They block off the holes for the air injection, an antiquated pollution control system that injected air into the exhaust ports after the valve and before the manifold. They rot out and leak exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Great info again! Thanks everyone! I will take a look at those plugs in the heads but the noise doesnt seem to be coming from the end of the heads.

My rockers are stamped steel Crane. What worries me about removing the guide plates is how do they self align ? Im my mind they could just twist round on the stud.

91975
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Thanks for confirming I need the guide plates. So in that case it seems that it would be normal for many of them to be tight on one side every time I check them ? I have just replaced the push rods and one of them is already showing signs of rubbing. I assume all you can do is try to align them so the rocker is a square as possible on the valve.
 

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Something you might want to check is the metal tabs that the pushrods ride in. Sometimes those tabs get bent in and tighten the pushrod slot. By the way, what is your cam specs? Sometimes rocker arms like this don't have enough slot in them for a higher lift cam. This will show up by a bright spot on the stud itself where the rocker arm rubs against it. Also on the rocker arm.
You should have the thickness of a paperclip between the rocker arm and the stud on both sides.
 

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okay this is going to sound funny but listen i had a car come in with the exact same noise it was a newer car but the principal on how and what goes on in a engine are still the same, i remember years ago I had a sbc with a odd noise and i pulled the dipstick noise went away they had the wrong one, so for [email protected] and giggles i pulled the stick and noise was completely gone lol what i found it to be was the pvc system had either clogged or the crank shaft seal was worn, the internal pressure spikes created from the pistons moving down forced air out of the crank seal making that noise it was worse as it got warmer also chirp chirp chirp chirp drove me nuts so i bought a pvc valve a harmonic balancer (I know they make a sleeve but I wanted new) and a new seal for the balancer boom noise was gone like it never was there, now this was on a newer Chevy but the principal is the same and the thicker oil would slow or change the pitch worth checking out simple check take the caps off of the valve covers while it is running, I also had a sbf squeaked like that and it was push rods up against the guide plate i switch the plates over to the plastic ones noise went away, also see if your vacuum is bouncing with the noise again sign of a seal leaking somewhere
 

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also i forgot clean your pushrods remove all the oil residue up at the top where the rocker is paint the pushrods with a little bit of white out. start the motor when squeak starts shut it off check your white out and diagnose from there, if i remember correctly you should have some clearance from the rod to plate. mine was set up with magnum roller rockers and comp plates at the base circle of the cam valve closed i twisted the rocker to make sure my roller had 100 percent contact the length of the roller and that the rods did not contact the guide plate, my 2 cents
 

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Discussion Starter #39
okay this is going to sound funny but listen i had a car come in with the exact same noise it was a newer car but the principal on how and what goes on in a engine are still the same, i remember years ago I had a sbc with a odd noise and i pulled the dipstick noise went away they had the wrong one, so for [email protected] and giggles i pulled the stick and noise was completely gone lol what i found it to be was the pvc system had either clogged or the crank shaft seal was worn, the internal pressure spikes created from the pistons moving down forced air out of the crank seal making that noise it was worse as it got warmer also chirp chirp chirp chirp drove me nuts so i bought a pvc valve a harmonic balancer (I know they make a sleeve but I wanted new) and a new seal for the balancer boom noise was gone like it never was there, now this was on a newer Chevy but the principal is the same and the thicker oil would slow or change the pitch worth checking out simple check take the caps off of the valve covers while it is running, I also had a sbf squeaked like that and it was push rods up against the guide plate i switch the plates over to the plastic ones noise went away, also see if your vacuum is bouncing with the noise again sign of a seal leaking somewhere
This one got me very excited as it is an easy test.....sadly it makes no difference with the caps off and the dip stick out.:(
 

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Discussion Starter #40
also i forgot clean your pushrods remove all the oil residue up at the top where the rocker is paint the pushrods with a little bit of white out. start the motor when squeak starts shut it off check your white out and diagnose from there, if i remember correctly you should have some clearance from the rod to plate. mine was set up with magnum roller rockers and comp plates at the base circle of the cam valve closed i twisted the rocker to make sure my roller had 100 percent contact the length of the roller and that the rods did not contact the guide plate, my 2 cents
I am still extremely suspicious of the pushrod guide plates. Every time I test them after running the engine most of the push rods are hard against one site and some of the new ones are starting to show very slight signs of wear on the black finish. I have stamped rockers but I still dont see how the guides dont end up rubbing as they are the only thing keeping everything aligned. I have tried manually twisting them when off cam and I can twist them all to touch either side of the guide but they settle jammed on one side and I dont see why they wouldnt.
 
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