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Hey 460 fans, new to 460.com. ive been reading a lot of info on intake manifolds here and i need some real world specific experience with my combo. i currently have a 1968 galaxie convertible. I've installed a ford motorsports crate motor from 2005. as built. I've installed a 750dp recently. the car is heavy.. 4100?? has a 2400 stall and a 3.25 gear. the rear tire is 28 tall, the enginehas a c460 camshaft and a ford motorsports version of a victor intake and a super cobrajet head. stock pickup bottom end. hyper 10.5-1 compression, cast cranks truck rods. im going to be driving this on the street but my daughter is going to begin drag racing it in a high school category. i feel the carburetor is way!!! to close to the hood ( had to cut the substructure support for the 1 inch drop 1 inch tall air cleaner to fit). it drives great but lazy from a stop. i have ford performace swap headers with 2.5 exhaust and 3 chamber flowmaster exhaust. im thinking of going to a torquer 2 intake with a super sucker to increase signal strenght at low rpms for torque.. but im also thinking of a performer rpm, however it get to close to the hood being that its only .5 inch lower then the current intake. so i think thats all the needed info whats you experience with a similar combo. thanks!
 

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Torker II would be what I'd run. Great all around intake and LOW carb pad height. Doesn't give up much on the bottom or the top.
 

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If not using the modified FE mounts the swap does place the carb at the hood. I ended up with a scoop to address that on mine. Personally I like the steath dp for the street which works well on my mild cammed combo. If you are looking for opinions I would suggest the air filter is way to small, go to a tuned 950cfm carb and install a 3.70 or 4.11 gear. The latter will definitively wake up the off line acceleration.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If not using the modified FE mounts the swap does place the carb at the hood. I ended up with a scoop to address that on mine. Personally I like the steath dp for the street which works well on my mild cammed combo. If you are looking for opinions I would suggest the air filter is way to small, go to a tuned 950cfm carb and install a 3.70 or 4.11 gear. The latter will definitively wake up the off line acceleration.
where did you get that hood or scoop? FoMOCo
 

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change the converter 3000 3500, rear end ratio 3.70 ,street car, then post what it runs for rpm thru the lights, leave the intake alone for now
 
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change the converter 3000 3500, rear end ratio 3.70 ,street car, then post what it runs for rpm thru the lights, leave the intake alone for now
Yes exactly . Tall rear gears , tall tyres , no stall @ 4100 lbs is what is killing it down low . Manifold "MIGHT" pic up a little

That cam is 244/[email protected]", 588"/614"

I put one of those crate motors in a Falcon some years ago, 3000 converter and 3.5's , with an 850 . Believe me it was not slow down low :)
 

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In addition to the performance issue, I think the OP is more concerned with hood to carb clearance, and a switch to a Stealth or Performer RPM wouldn't help with that much. As I read his 1st post in this thread, it sounds like it's probably more of a highway cruiser/driver type car being a CONVERTIBLE Galaxie that weighs 4100 lbs, has a low stall converter, 3.25 gears, and a small 750 carb. Also sounds like he'd like to keep it that way because he's only going to be letting his daughter race it in the high school class occasionally: he's not building a drag car. With his type of car, switching to a bigger stall, more gear, shorter tires, more carb, more cam, different heads, more cubes, fiberglass body parts, and a roll cage would definitely help in the performance department. Myself, I'd switch the intake to a Torker II to get the hood clearance he's after and gain some bottom end power, still have the car be that nice cruiser he's got, and call it a day.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
In addition to the performance issue, I think the OP is more concerned with hood to carb clearance, and a switch to a Stealth or Performer RPM wouldn't help much with that much. As I read his 1st post in this thread, it sounds like it's probably more of a highway cruiser/driver type car being a CONVERTIBLE Galaxie that weighs 4100 lbs, has a low stall converter, 3.25 gears, and a small 750 carb. Also sounds like he'd like to keep it that way because he's only going to be letting his daughter race it in the high school class occasionally: he's not building a drag car. With his type of car, switching to a bigger stall, more gear, shorter tires, more carb, more cam, different heads, more cubes, fiberglass body parts, and a roll cage would definitely help in the performance department. Myself, I'd switch the intake to a Torker II to get the hood clearance he's after and gain some bottom end power, still have the car be that nice cruiser he's got, and call it a day.
agreed!!! and yes.. i already have a drag car. at best this one will be a sportsman car... but faster than 13.50 it needs a roll bar,,,, and im positive that even with some issues that are not "dialed in yet" its still faster then that now. i agree with all the opinions and options, i just want some past experience to help with my decision so i dont "waste" money.. and we all know that way to easy to do.
 

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If you can squeeze on a set of M/T 275/60/15 Street radial pro's with the mentioned rear gear and converter change it should be well into the 11's.
 

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I will add that with a drop base air cleaner and only 1" air filter, your engine is probably sucking through a 1/4" slot between the air cleaner lid and the carb. A taller air filter if it was possible to fit under your hood would probably make a massive improvement on it's own (I know you can't do that with your set-up, but that's my point). Also a filter lid like a K&N Xtreme or Spectre will help if you're not running one already.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If you can squeeze on a set of M/T 275/60/15 Street radial pro's with the mentioned rear gear and converter change it should be well into the 11's.
that would be perfect! for a driver this sled should **** n git.. .. with the top down:)
 

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I will add that with a drop base air cleaner and only 1" air filter, your engine is probably sucking through a 1/4" slot between the air cleaner lid and the carb. A taller air filter if it was possible to fit under your hood would probably make a massive improvement on it's own (I know you can't do that with your set-up, but that's my point). Also a filter lid like a K&N Xtreme or Spectre will help if you're not running one already.
i already have one on it, but thats why im thinking of the torquer2. lower carb, more air, add super sucker to increase signal and torque. then maybe back to an 850..maybe
 

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Gotta agree with some about the converter, go at least 3-3500, wont be dis-appointed ( even with a strictly street car ) The air cleaner is WAY to small. Do some research on requirements for air flow ( I believe K&N has a graph or the like on their website.) I was surprised at the area required when researching for my 521. No idea how do deal with the close hood clearance, good luck on that. The flow tops are not supposed to gain much as the flow tends to come from the sides of the carb, that being said I do run one on my sons Mustang II with fresh air from the hood because only room for a 9x2 filter.
 

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Gotta agree with some about the converter, go at least 3-3500, wont be dis-appointed ( even with a strictly street car ) The air cleaner is WAY to small. Do some research on requirements for air flow ( I believe K&N has a graph or the like on their website.) I was surprised at the area required when researching for my 521. No idea how do deal with the close hood clearance, good luck on that. The flow tops are not supposed to gain much as the flow tends to come from the sides of the carb, that being said I do run one on my sons Mustang II with fresh air from the hood because only room for a 9x2 filter.
My old man's '67 Chevelle with a 468 BBC loses .4 in the quarter going from a flow top to a regular top (back to back testing) because of hood clearance and his drop base. On a dyno, probably doesn't help much. Real world effects really depend on the car's engine compartment.
 

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I have a large drop in the air-cleaner housing on my Mach 1 to get home-made ram-air under the stock hood. Filter is 14" X 3", but the gap between the apex of the filter base and the shiny chrome lid is >1". Alright for cruising around town, but with the K&N X-stream flow lid fitted - it's a different car.
 
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