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Discussion Starter #1
OK, this just popped up. For about a week now, my 2006 F250 has been hard to start. It turns over for about 3-5 seconds, then fires off. Used to fire at the first couple of spins. What could be the problem? It has 59K on it & yes, the fuel filters are fresh. I am waiting for the light to go off & it has been 48-70 degrees here.

Any ideas? Or, is it time to take it in?
 

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ICP (injection control pressure switch)

pretty common if you unplug it and there is any oil in the electrical plug you need a new one .. only other way to tell is get it on a scanner and try starting it while watching the icp to see if its reading is lagging once motor is cranking over ..the injectors are fired by high pressure oil and with no signal of proper pressure it wont fire injectors ..

I just changed mine a few months ago it was bad and creating a long crank to start
 

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prob need s ficm,(fuel inj control module)quite commin whenn the cold weather hits.or the stc fitting crapped out at the hp pump.
 

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Take it to the nearest dealer and pay the 100 deductable.

Its still in powertrain warranty, you could spend thousands of dollars throwing parts at it from advice on this site..............what i'm getting at is there are a lot of things that could be the problem and without an IDS and someone who knows how to use it you'll be wasting time and money.
 

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The first and simplest thing you guys can do before taking it in is get the batterys tested.

I swear every other truck that comes in one or both of the batterys are shot.........big PITA
 

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Jon,

I forgot to let you know my buddy changed the Batteries in his truck that i asked you about a month or so ago and all is well.

Thanks Mark.
 

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hard start

i assume you have the 6.0. i have one in my f450. mine has close to 100k and it has had several problems. the bats had to be replaced before it's 2nd year. that could be the prob. one gets bad and pulls down the other. makes it hard to start even when it gets cooooool. it got to where it would start fine, but took forever to warm up enough to drive. it would smoke badly and would not even move enough to drive it. no matter how much throttle you gave it. took it in at 75k and they replaced 6 of the injectors. it's ran fine for awhile now. but now it does like yours. if i glow plug it once , it still turns over and over before it starts. i think its the fuel pump or the reg. because i was able to turn on the switch for the glow plugs and here the fuel pump run for a max of 2 seconds. now i turn it on and it takes at least 10 seconds for the pump to reach pressure and shut off. after that it starts fine. my buddy at work has a twin to mine and they have replaced the injectors, fuel pump, fuel tank, etc. etc. now his won't start if if it's at operating temp., has to wait till it cools down. damn international diesels. wish i had my old powerstroke back. it would run circles around this thing. the engine has a 100k warranty on some of the parts. that helps, but it's still a shame. sorry man, i feeeeeel your pain.

steve
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The first and simplest thing you guys can do before taking it in is get the batterys tested.

I swear every other truck that comes in one or both of the batterys are shot.........big PITA

Interesting. I had both bateries replaced under warranty, along with the wires, last year. Thing is, I found one loose about 4 weeks ago, truck wouldn't turn over all of a sudden. Tightened it, 2 weeks later, this problem starts. Engine turns over very fast, does not act like a low battery, it just doesn't kick for about 5 seconds, where it used to fire at 1 or 2 seconds.
 

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Simple test hook a voltmeter up tp the batts and watch the voltage while cranking, should never dip below 10 volts, if it does then fix that concern.

Only other prelim deal is make sure the oil is the right grade and rating, and that its not too old, also those one piece oil filter-cap assy's can cause said issues, be sure its got the short factory cap, and has a ford filter, also make sure the standpipe lookin' plastic piece in there does not have the top broken................common quick lube screw up.

If all the above is ok take it in.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Simple test hook a voltmeter up tp the batts and watch the voltage while cranking, should never dip below 10 volts, if it does then fix that concern.

Only other prelim deal is make sure the oil is the right grade and rating, and that its not too old, also those one piece oil filter-cap assy's can cause said issues, be sure its got the short factory cap, and has a ford filter, also make sure the standpipe lookin' plastic piece in there does not have the top broken................common quick lube screw up.

If all the above is ok take it in.
Excellent, I'll check them out. Hope I'm good on the filter housing, dealer did the last change.

John.
 

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my 06 just started the hardstart it sounds like its running on five cyl. but after a min or so its fine or so i think it is. i took it to a friend who put his scanner on it and it said cylinder 7 injector circuit low and the same thing for cyl6 and cyl3 do you no what it could be.
thanks jeremy
 

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dammit

j,

that sounds like the injectors are going down. mine did the same. it will get worse. take it in while it's still under warranty. i think the engine warranty is 100k. as far as the original guy said about the long cranking time before start. open the door and listen for the fuel pump. it should only run about as long as the glow plug light stays on. that the problem i'm having now myself. mine runs forever after the light goes out. if i wait till it stops running and then crank it starts fine. i'm gonna service mine tomorrow to make sure it's not the lower filter. if not it will be back to the shop next week.

steve
 

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AT LEAST MINE HAS 341,000 AND STILL RUNS GOOD,I DROVE FORD TRUCKS FOR 25+ YEARS BUT THE INTERNATIONAL IS THE WORST OF THE BUNCH.I WORK ON SEMI-TRUCKS AND SEE THESE PROBLEMS EVERYDAY.THERE IS ONLY 2 GOOD DIESELS:CAT OR CUMMINS.
 

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Seen many a 7.3 DI with 6-700,000...............original heads and shortblock.

Wont get in the argument....one can do what he wants.

Actually had a 6.0 in the shop the other day with nearly 300,000..........was shocked to say the least.
 

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i`ll guess bout $2,400 if you took it to repair shop, 1,900 if you did it yourself??? done both on my nieghbor`s bout 3 months ago:( , i know its not cheap, his only had 74,000 on it
 
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