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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Procomp heads for the BBF are fine if assembled with quality parts, proper machine work and a hand blended bowl.
They are NOT TFS copies but rather a decent D3 upgrade.

Edelbrock heads are too damned expensive for the mediocre performance they offer.

That being said that heads that you find with that ebay seller have large valves installed on the 2 angle small valve seats as they come from procomp. They do not flow worth a S#%$.

In addition to offering "Corrected" pro comp heads to our clients I've un buggered many sets of heads purchased from that particular ebay seller as well as his long blocks.








Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
Banks Authorized Dealer
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
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I'm happy to purchase from you. Just tell me what to buy (400something hp and enough vacuum for brakes - although maybe I can add an electric pump if needed?) and the prices. I prefer aluminum heads just for the weight savings, even if they flow the same. Can I get a complete turn key engine from you?

I'll try to give your shop a call later after I get a bit more caught up on work.
 

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Everyone is packed. Specialty Machine in Glendale, Standard Machine in Glendale, Klein Engine in Phoenix, Blue Monkey Performance, also in Glendale.

It's Phoenix. You have to drive to get anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Everyone is packed. Specialty Machine in Glendale, Standard Machine in Glendale, Klein Engine in Phoenix, Blue Monkey Performance, also in Glendale.

It's Phoenix. You have to drive to get anything.
I'm in St. Louis - but I'm happy to pay shipping. Basically, I either need to order an ATK engine from Summit/Jegs or order individual parts from Scotty or elsewhere and assemble my engine. Haven't decided yet. I'd prefer to get a crate engine that comes dyno tested, but no one seems to be able to do that in under 6 months... I'm a full-time grad student and work full-time, so taking the time to build an engine (correctly) may not be that practical at the moment.
 

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I'm in St. Louis - but I'm happy to pay shipping. Basically, I either need to order an ATK engine from Summit/Jegs or order individual parts from Scotty or elsewhere and assemble my engine. Haven't decided yet. I'd prefer to get a crate engine that comes dyno tested, but no one seems to be able to do that in under 6 months... I'm a full-time grad student and work full-time, so taking the time to build an engine (correctly) may not be that practical at the moment.
Any shop worth its salt is going to be buried. We are a minimum of 6 months out on crate performance builds.
Another local shop is a year out.

Folks have $$$ and are wanting to spend it. We could use 2 good machinists and a front counter person. Can not find anyone qualified but that is another subject altogether.








Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
Banks Authorized Dealer
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Any shop worth its salt is going to be buried. We are a minimum of 6 months out on crate performance builds.
Another local shop is a year out.

Folks have $$$ and are wanting to spend it. We could use 2 good machinists and a front counter person. Can not find anyone qualified but that is another subject altogether.


Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
Banks Authorized Dealer
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine
I hear ya. I can't imagine how hard it will be to find a good machinist shop 10 or 20 years from now.
 

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Any shop worth its salt is going to be buried. We are a minimum of 6 months out on crate performance builds.
Another local shop is a year out.

Folks have $$$ and are wanting to spend it. We could use 2 good machinists and a front counter person. Can not find anyone qualified but that is another subject altogether.

Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
Banks Authorized Dealer
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine

Six months sounds about right. Oddly, we have as many builds from outside America as we do inside.

Panama, Brazil, South Africa, Mwxico, Czech Republic, off the top of my head....never seen it like this before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I'm not sure why places aren't raising prices more to balance it out. If I'm overselling something, I raise the prices until it levels off some. I think if I ran a machine shop I would keep my prices high enough so I would scare away a lot of customers and never be more than a month out. We're going to need a lot more inflation before wait times slow down.
 

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Any shop worth its salt is going to be buried. We are a minimum of 6 months out on crate performance builds.
Another local shop is a year out.

Folks have $$$ and are wanting to spend it. We could use 2 good machinists and a front counter person. Can not find anyone qualified but that is another subject altogether.








Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
Banks Authorized Dealer
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine
I would love to be your front counter person, but just a little to far away (Australia).LOL.

There was a local job to work at a speed shop, but the 2 hour drive each way will kill me.......just my luck!!

Cheers, Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I removed the fenders and header panel/core support. Was a bit of a PITA, but will make replacing the suspension parts a lot easier, etc. Got my shop cleaned up decently also. Should be able to work pretty efficiently.

I will probably just order the ATK engine from Jegs... Just dragging my feet on it because it's so expensive. Probably won't get it until April. Ordering a TCI trans also. Just sucks letting the reality set in that I need to put a good $15k minimum into this thing. Wouldn't be so bad, but I paid way too much for this car to begin with lol.

Any suggestions for the steering? Do these boxes hold up well? The steering was pretty crappy and I want to replace as much as I can while it's all apart. Also, I think I'm going to put in a floor shifter. The factory linkage and brackets look way too complicated. I'd rather just have a cable go from a shifter right to the arm on the transmission - if that's possible.

Plan to pull out the rear end this week and start ordering parts. Just need to start plugging away here and there at misc crap.


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That takes all the fun out of working on the engine/car. It's a good suspension, especially with the disc brake system. Problem is they are for a "luxury" ride. Beef it up, probably with bigger station wagon swaybar and stuff along with better coil springs front/rear. Plus get rid of the rubber bushings.
Personally, I wouldn't change the steering system since it does work and it all ready fits. Just find someone that can rebuild it or maybe look for a quicker steering box to install.
Wish I still had mine. I got rid of the orange and painted that black.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Yea, I ordered a quick steering box from RockAuto... Luckily they make one. The old one felt really floaty. I'll also change the rag joint. I'm replacing all of the control arm bushings (front and rear), shocks, springs, tie rods, pitman arm, etc...

I'm having trouble with the brake parts though. My master cylinder and booster are bad. And I suspect the proportioning valve is. So, I want to replace all of it. What should I buy if I do the rear disc conversion? Will the OEM style master cylinder work? I'd assume I'd need a different one, and a different proportioning valve. Not sure where to find this stuff though. Can't find this stuff for a Ford anywhere.

Oh, and will I need to run a steering cooler? I will be using a serpentine conversion kit with 5/8 keyway pump.

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And yes, that makes your rearend look big, LOL. I would run a steer cooler due to exhaust manifold heat need the steering system.
You might do some internet surfing and see if there's anyone out there that can rebuild your factory brake system.
Rock Auto has the MC and booster. Prop valve will probably have to be rebuilt.
Some would change to rear discs, but they factory stuff is good. and it would make the rebuild easier. But then being Ford/Mercury people, we don't do easy stuff anyway. Otherwise we'd be driving/working on a brand X.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
And yes, that makes your rearend look big, LOL. I would run a steer cooler due to exhaust manifold heat need the steering system.
You might do some internet surfing and see if there's anyone out there that can rebuild your factory brake system.
Rock Auto has the MC and booster. Prop valve will probably have to be rebuilt.
Some would change to rear discs, but they factory stuff is good. and it would make the rebuild easier. But then being Ford/Mercury people, we don't do easy stuff anyway. Otherwise we'd be driving/working on a brand X.
The booster on rockauto shows says specifically it's for drum brakes... So, I'm wondering if it's not the same for a disc/drum car like mine. I'd really like to do disc brakes on the rear for a cleaner, more modern setup - especially since there are so many options for disc brakes on a Ford 9". I'll keep researching and see what I can turn up.

My headers will be ceramic coated - so that should help underhood temps - but I'll run a cooler anyways to be safe. They're cheap enough.
 

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I've seen places that do rebuild the power booster. I'd just google it and see what comes up. Probably find someone that rebuilds the MC also. As bad as it sounds, go over to the darkside (Chevy) restros and you'll probably find one. They always seem to have everything available to them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I've seen places that do rebuild the power booster. I'd just google it and see what comes up. Probably find someone that rebuilds the MC also. As bad as it sounds, go over to the darkside (Chevy) restros and you'll probably find one. They always seem to have everything available to them.
Yep... Just gotta figure out how much modifying is needed to use a booster/master/prop valve for a Chevy - Or maybe an older Mustang. Mustangs are the only Ford cars that have good aftermarket support. Maybe it's as simple as just using a different brake pedal. I'm not sure as I've only ever removed a brake booster once in my life.
 

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Sometimes the bigger, up to 73 Mustangs use the same stuff. 71 429SCJ might be the best place. Or a 70 with a 428SCJ.
When you go outside of the Mustang world, things get fewer and far between. But the trick is knowing what stuff crosses over. Mercury, Cougars, Cyclones, Montereys, and Ford Torinos/Fairlane etc are a good place to also look. Maybe even a few of the truck sources. Lots of heavy duty stuff there.
You might even contact some of the custom shops that do truck and car custom work and see where they go to. Try Art Morrison up in Fife, Wa.
 
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