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Discussion Starter #1
Well guys we finally were able to take the car out today for test and tune. First runs since getting the motor back from Lem and Bob. We had to wait a little because we had to get some bigger front runners because the car sits so low the pan and headers were hitting the ground. First pass out the car goes left right after leaving the line. Running a 3200 leave chip. Dad brings the car back into the groove and it runs a 6.901 100.34. Second pass we put a 4800 leave chip in and the car leaves the best I have ever seen it leave. Runs a 6.69 at 104.21. Very nice pass and really straight. The biggest problem we were facing was as soon and in the lights and on the transbrake the car would completely stumble so best light off 500 pro tree was a .635. We go back and put the stop on the car and put in a 3600 leave chip since I am getting ready to run 1/4 in a few weeks and leaving at 4800 was just to high. I get in the car and put it into the lights again it stumbles and than comes up on the chip. I leave and it darts again to the left hard. I lift and get back on it and go into high gear and there is no high gear. I get back to trailer put up on jackstands and we check fluid, cable and theres nothing. So we load her up and head home. Sucks because I was not able to make a full pass on this thing. And still do not understand the darting to the left on the low chip leaves but pretty darn straight on the high chip. Were get the tranny pulled out and get her ready to race in Atlanta here in a month. I will say we can see the extra power though. The 60 ft on the first pass was a 1.472 and last year in Bowling Green with same leave chip (3200)it was having 1.56 or 1.57. So it feels like its going to be one bad ride. But does anyone have any idea for the pulling left problems with the low chips?

Thanks,
Doug Benton
 

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In regards to the stumble....remember what bob told you about the carb being real lean off idle went he broke in the flat tappet cam on the run in stand . That being the case , you'll need to rub on the carb to get that thing to leave hard .
 

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Discussion Starter #3
We need a good carb

We really need a good carb. We jetted the carb up from 90's when it was with Bob so we went with 94's. The headers looked good but the plugs still looked lean. So our friend told us to go to to 96's but we were not able to make a full pass after that. Best run in the car so far with old motor was a 6.50 but with a 1/8 mile I think a 5.14 gear in it. It has a 4.11 in it now and it still ran that 6.69 so were happy with the power. I would love to borrow a really good carb one time and see what it would really run. But we have put a ton into this one and still it seems not to run right.
 

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In my experience if it is stumbling coming up on the converter it is usually either not enough pump shot or idle mixture to lean.

As far as going left on the launch at the lower rpm my bet would be that when you leave lower you are dead hooking and you have a little to much weight on the right rear. Then when you bump the rpm for the launch it spins the tires enough to make it not noticeable.

dkp
 

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Yea like bosshoss said, it could be a preload gremlin, also check both slick's roll out measurement to see how close they are. Before you do any major side-to-side weight shifting with preload adjustment, was the car driving straight as a string at the finish line?

If it was driving straight at top end speed/under load, be very careful how much you change the preload settings around to correct the launch. You don't want to straighten out the launch at the cost of a hard to drive car at the finish line.

It could have also just been inconsistent track prep from one pass to the next.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The car drove great last year just like on a string. The tires last year were 24's this year we had to move up to a 26. It seemed to me from watching it behind once it went directly left dad pulled it back in and it seemed to be pretty straight after that. As far as on my pass I had no high gear so I rolled through at like 50mph. Up to that point though the ride sucked. This is a four link car and really we have no clue on how to set one up. Our old cars were all ladder bar cars and even than we had a friend set the car up. So what should be our first move? As far as the high leave chip you could be right about it not be noticeable. I mean it left really mean had a 1.44 60ft and straight as can be.

Damon,
The carb is a 1050 that at first would not run at all. So we replaced both bowls with proforms and had some carb guru from around here work on it. It worked decent and so I played around with the air bleed screws I guess thats what their called (the four screws on each side of the body)? And it actually worked really good the rest of the year. Now the motor is much stronger and Charlie ported some on the heads also. We ran 90 jets all last year and moved to 92's first. Than the 94's. It has 96's in it now but we were not able to make another pass. But the car hardly even stays running and seems to surge when you give it gas than wants to quit if you do not stay on the gas. I think I will mess with the screws some more and hope that helps out some. Thanks guys!

Doug
 

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cobrakid8 said:
The car drove great last year just like on a string. The tires last year were 24's this year we had to move up to a 26.
"24's to26's".....are we talking about the new front runners? If so what size slicks are on the rear? And how much air was in the front runners & the rear slicks?

As Les mentioned some good video could help tell more of what's going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I would love to have some videos but we haven't had a videocamera since I was a young kid :) Yeah the 24 to 26 is the front runners. Dad keeps them at 35lb's I think he said. Cannot remember the slick sizes I will get that for you. I mean again at the low chips it would just dart straight left pretty hard and than you had to bring it back. Now on the high chip it squated really good even pulled the front wheels off the ground and left completely straight with some power. And pulling the wheels off the ground is a feat in itself because the motor sits so far forward it has never came close before. But again I will get those sizes of slicks but cannot do the video unless I can get someone to borrow a camera from.

Damon,
I will do that with the idle mixture screws next time the car is out. I really should have known the real name but yesterday was a rough day. So I need to tighten them all the way in and than come out 1.5 to 1 3/4 turns? Is this correct? If so that is what I will do as soon as the trans comes back from getting a good check and put back together.

Thanks Guys!
Doug Benton
 

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Discussion Starter #12
slicks

The slicks are 31x13x15. Running at 7 1/2lbs pressure. Will try to get a video off my digital camera next time at the strip and let you see what is going on. Thanks Doug
 

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Doug,

you may need a little more pressure in your slicks. I run anywhere from 8.5 to 9.5psi in my Hoosier 31 X 14 X 15's

Yes you are correct on the idle mixture screws. We may have to change your idle air bleeds or mid air bleeds. Lem and Phillip are REALLY good with these carbs. While at the NMRA world finals Phillip was tuning on Chucks 1050HP while talking to Lem on the phone about the air bleeds. It helped a TON!!!

Good Luck!



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Discussion Starter #14
We were not able to take the car out today since all the rain. So we put the new transmission in the car and worked with the four link with a friend trying to help us set it up.

Now the biggest problem is with this carb. Will not idle for crap. We did the thing with the idle mixture screws and it seemed to help some. But the biggest problem we have is once you hit the gas it seems to surge for a little while before it comes back down to idle so it seems to be surging on us. Start it up and it idles for a second at around 2 and than it almost wants to die so you give it just a little fuel to keep it running and it goes up to 3 for 30 seconds or more. Than it will come back down to 2 stay for a little and than want to quit again so you give it a little gas again and it goes again to 3. We do not know much about the idle air bleeds and high speed air bleeds. We took them out today after letting it run for a little and made sure that the holes were not clogged and everything seemed fine there. Any help would be appreciated. I would love to have a quick fuel but we cannot afford one so that is out right now. We got Atlanta in 2 weeks and need to get this car running right.

Thanks,
Doug
 
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cobrakid8

What's the fuel pressure? Is the filter clean? Are you using a bypass fuel system?

Has the carb been sitting around? If it has I'd get a gasket kit and clean it out. Sometimes the gaskest will dry up.. This is a cheap deal so maybe try it..

These are my thoughts on the deal.. Good Luck! Let everybody know what fixed it..

Laters!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The pressure was about 9 while running. We cleaned the fuel filter out and it seemed clean. And it is running a bypass fuel system on it.

Were going to try some other things.

Thanks,
Doug
 

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Does the carb have a strong enuff return spring? My Idle wouldn't stabilized after I drove it, The throttle wouldn't go back to the stop. I had taken one of the springs off the return bracket because I wanted a lite throttle, I guess thats why they put 2 springs on there... :roll:

Fuel pressure seems kinda high too.

Is the carb a 3 circut?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm pretty sure its a 3 circuit. The springs worked great last year so I am sure it has something to do with the tuning of the carb. We went to a better cam and Charlie ported the heads for us. It worked decent last year with this same setup but I guess now were trying to catch up with all that was done to the motor. Usually we run around 7 1/2 to 8 on fuel pressure so that should be lowered by next weekend it was getting to late to make much of anymore changes to it tonight.
 

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The idle thing sounds like a vacuum leak. Try spraying something around
all the carb gaskets and intake gaskets. But it could be leaking under
the intake also? Hope it helps.
 

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