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What do you mean, specifically?

You need to have an SFI-approved scattershielf for a clutched setup on a vehicle that runs quicker than 10.99, by NHRA rules, to the best of my recollection. A flywheel (iron, aluminum or steel) or the pressure ring in a pressure plate, when enough heat is built into said piece that it gives up the ghost, is an extremely violent event when it explodes (and generally you're talking about in highly elevated engine speed situations). I've seen in stock aluminum bell'ed incidents pieces of the pressure ring blow through the bellhousing, penetrate through the firewall/floorboard and lodge into the underside dashboard structure...as well as completely blow the bellhousing apart and break the back of the engine block off (where the bellhousing bolts to the block).

For an automatic setup, you need a flexplate shield at 10.99 and quicker. I think the most readily available/easiest options in that aspect are the bolt-on steel flexplate shields like sold by Hughes Performance...I say this because of the C6's integrated bellhousing. I think a couple of companies make SFI-approved bellhousings for the C6 but require the stock bell to be cut off and the case be machined so that the aftermarket bellhousings can be bolted on. At 9.99 and quicker with an automatic setup, you need the flexplate shield AND a trans blank or diaper to help contain "stuff" if you were to suffer a catastrophic failure of the transmission assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What do you mean, specifically?

You need to have an SFI-approved scattershielf for a clutched setup. A flywheel (iron, aluminum or steel) or the pressure ring in a pressure plate, when enough heat is built into said piece that it gives up the ghost, is an extremely violent event when it explodes (and generally you're talking about in highly elevated engine speed situations). I've seen in stock aluminum bell'ed incidents pieces of the pressure ring blow through the bellhousing, penetrate through the firewall/floorboard and lodge into the underside dashboard structure...as well as completely blow the bellhousing apart and break the back of the engine block off (where the bellhousing bolts to the block).

For an automatic setup, you don't need a scattershield but at certain ETs you need specific equipment like a diaper to help contain "stuff" if you were to suffer a catastrophic failure of the transmission assembly.
I'm running a C6 and I was not sure what I needed or if I needed anything at all. I'm thinking that the car should run somewhere in the 9's. So I just wanted to ask before I put the thing down into the car and then went and failed tech inspection because I was missing some piece of saftey equipment.
 

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It's one of those matters where it definitely pays to overkill the matter. There are several vendors to manufacture and sell bolt-on flexplate shields that will work with the stock integral-bell C6 case. I'd invest in one, now, and install it prior to sticking the combo in the car. I'd research what blanket/diaper is most effective (in literal sense as well as dollar sense), as well, and be ready to get that installed once you have the combo in the car and all the perfunctory tuning and adjusting done.


You're better off showing up at a tech inspection with overkill in the safety equipment department than underprepared. No. 1, it's going to make you and the combo safer and No. 2, it's going to impress upon the track crew that you're not cutting corners.
 

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Thanks Zac.. I've been checking them out. Not all that expensive. I'll get one ordered and put it on before I drop the motor/tranny combo in.

Do you have any experience using this? That trans tunnel is already really tight. Will they fit with out any trans tunnel modification? I'm thinking that they won't. But I hope I'm wrong.
 

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I don't have any experience with them in a Fox car...but a Google search indicates one won't simply bolt on and fit in the car without some modifications. Do you have the k-member shimmed/spaced down? That seems to be the deal-maker for 385-series/C6 combos in said cars...and/or using engine plates with a ~1.5" engine installed height drop.
 

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I don't have any experience with them in a Fox car...but a Google search indicates one won't simply bolt on and fit in the car without some modifications. Do you have the k-member shimmed/spaced down? That seems to be the deal-maker for 385-series/C6 combos in said cars...and/or using engine plates with a ~1.5" engine installed height drop.
I have a motor plate but I'm not sure what the drop is. I do believe though that it is at least 1.5 inches. Maybe more. The headers and motor plate were a combo deal from Totoal Performace out of Clinton Township Michigan. I had to shim the k-member so it would clear the oil pan as an example of how low the motor sets in there. I also had to cut the mount towers off the k-member so the motor would clear as well. Hopefully this will be an easy addition for me.
 

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Zac I think you have them backwards the blanket is required before the flexplate shield but Chris's car will be fast enough to need both. Chris you will also need an engine diaper, I believe that is 9.99 and faster but Byron is requiring them on anything 10.99 and fast this year (just a little heads up).
 

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I installed the composite unit from CSR on my rag. Covers the flexplate and trans. Pricing is about what the individual items come to, and it fits real good to the trans.
 

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does anyone have pictures of the trans diaper they're running? I have the tci trans shield and will be ordering the flex shield. I should be in the 9's and am trying to figure out what else is needed before building the tunnel.
 
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