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Discussion Starter #1
I recently tore down a 460 that was rebuilt with 10k miles. My goal was to use the crank, rods (if football) and various external parts such as timing cover.

While removing the rods and pistons from the cylinder, one of the football rod bolts came out of the rod.

Is this rod bolt okay to use still?

Also the crank is internally balanced and stamped 010 to indicate it has been resurfaced. The crank journals look great with no marring or scratches.

Is this crank good to go for a new build?
 

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first question would be what are your plans for the build?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
450-500 wheel HP in a 70 Torino GT. Reliable street and highway cruiser.

Aluminum heads, roller cam and rockers, 850-1000 cfm carb on pump gas.

It will never see a strip, nitrous or forced induction.
 

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450 to 500 wheel horsepower is around 575- 600 or so at the crank and that is putting your stock bottom end through a lot when you push it that hard .

I would want to make certain all of my fasteners were top notch and new to start for both rods and crankshaft and I would get the clearances checked so as not to gamble.

You are going to spend a fair amount of money to get you there naturally aspirated and reliable so I wouldn't cut corners.

I don't think building a grenade is what you are looking for.

There are plenty of guys here that have done it with stock bottom end parts in the end the reliability depends on the level of abuse it takes.
 

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Thinking about this a bit more you are going to have to have some really significant rpm to get you to that 500 wheel horsepower and a good set of rods would certainly be worth the investment.

If it were me though looking for 600 horsepower at the crank naturally aspirated I would probably go for a stroker kit so I could get more usable power at a lower more driveable rpm pump gas combo and also have more room for improvement down the road.

If you were looking for 450 to 500 at the crankshaft than you wouldn't be beyond the stock limits of the connecting rods with good hardware but at a 100 horsepower above that and essentially the need for a 7000 rpm blast out of a 460 cubic inches I would spend the extra money on at least h beam rods if I planned on long term use.
 

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I'd likely resize the rods with new ARP bolts to be sure.

My 11 to 1 460 makes 456 sae net at the wheels and 570 std crank on the dyno.

6000 rpm hp peak.

This is very near sea level.

11 to 1
Well worked SCJ A's
Ported RPM intake
224 / 228 / 234 @ .050 3 pattern HR cam with SR lifters.
1.8 comp stainless rockers @ 0 lash cold.
950 comp carbs HP
Custom curved DS 30* TT
Headers from FPA and 3" mandrel bent exhaust.


Your goal will require a well though out combination. Good aluminum heads, modest cam timing and some compression. It is ALL in the combination of pieces and details matter.

Getting there with WELL ported iron is possible with about 15 to 20* more intake duration.


SJ
used 2b RHP


:D
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I watched a build by HP Tv where they built a 607hp 460 using stock crank and rods. Only they resurfaced/reconditioned the crank and rods. They added the Trickflow main girdle with a high volume oil pump. Heads were a set of Trickflows with roller rockers and lifters, dampened springs and a custom John Kaase cam. MSD distributer and ignition with E3 plugs. Intake was also Trickflow with a 1000cfm Holley.

After getting the timing on point the result was 589hp @ 5500rpm and 607hp @ 6000rpm. The average was 377hp & 522tq @ 3750rpm.

I realize these are professionals building this engine and that Kaase cam made a huge difference.

My question is will this crank being resurfaced to .010 with the proper size rod bearings be as good as a standard crank with standard bearings.

Can the football rod bolt be reused?
 

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Mad Porter, what transmission and accessories are you running?

A resized crank with proper fillets is just fine.

Resize your rods and utilize new arp bolts.

I am familiar with that build. We do not us high volume op's on the street. AFR heads will make better power with less cam and igntion timing.


C6 with R intermediate servo from Frank Merkel. Green return spring. B&M stage 2 shift kit. Factory restalled convertor. 3450 rpm.

After 7 years the engine is still an animal. The C6 needs some attention specifically the valve body.


The entire car and engine build up are in the car buildup forum. project 12.99 LTD.



SJ
used 2b RHP


:D
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Mad Porter, thank you for the advice. I am going to go with the ARP rod bolts you recommenced. $65 is worth the piece of mind.

Today I finished cleaning up and resealed a 3spd with OD top loader. It looks awesome now as though brand new. Will this trans be decent at higher cruising speeds (80mph)? Looking to run a 3.00-3.25 final and 275/55/17 tires.
 

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That trans isn't out of a Granada or late 70's pick up, is it? It looks like one of these:
Toploader Imposters
If it is, they're not strong and the gear spacing sucks (too wide). At some point years ago i had one and was going to use it, but changed my mind when I really looked in to it.
 

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I'll echo SPLUHAR, those trannys cannot handle the torque. Most OE manual trans are not designed for high performance abuse. I decided to go with a TKO... not as fast as a C6 but it has overdrive.
 
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