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Discussion Starter #1
'87 F350 with hydraulic clutch. Is there any trick to removing the small lever that connects to the master cylinder rod? The lever has one 11/16" nut holding it on. I took the nut off but can't get the little lever to budge.
 

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Get up in there with a small pry bar and rock it back and forth to get it off,when the nut is tightened up it presses the arm on and cuts splines in the arm.why are you trying to get it off?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. I'll try that. I don't want to pry much against the aluminum bracket though. I'll prob pry against the steering column itself. I had a small pair of vise grips on there to try to wiggle it, but no wiggle. I may also try a hammer and punch. Well, this is a recent purchase for $400 and I tried hauling the hay trailer with it yesterday. I found out that the clutch would slip with anything over 1/4 throttle. Upon further inspection last night, the clutch master cylinder rod had been threaded out (longer) to make it stay in contact with the pin on that clutch pedal lever. The plastic bushing was missing and the metal on metal action wore into the clutch lever quite a bit. So now I'm going to replace the lever and get a new plastic bushing. It's also likely that the rod being so far extended was causing the clutch to not fully engage.
 

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the new lever will not have any splines cut into it,so it is important to get it indexed properly before you tighten up the nut,make sure the clutch pedal is all the way up against the stop and the master cylinder rod is in the new lever before you tighten the nut or you won't get proper release or engagement.also make sure the firewall is not cracked around the area that the master cylinder bolts through,look on the engine side of the firewall for cracks or places where the seam is splitting,do not install the new lever until you get the firewall repaired bacause it is hard to move the lever a little bit because of the splines.Ford has two repair kits for cracked firewalls depending on how severe the cracks are.It is VERY common for the firewalls to crack and cause clutches that are hard to disengage. hope this helps,,
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sweet liberation! The pry bar was enough to initiate the first wiggle and from there the vise grips took over the wiggling duties. Yeah, I'd thought of how it would have to be indexed before tightening the nut. I usually spend about 3 hours diagnosing and figuring out a repair and one hour of actual repair if it's a job I haven't done before. No cracks in the firewall, so that's good. I'll see how much the replacement arm costs. If it's outrageously expensive, I'll probably find a bolt that's the same diameter as the little pin, cut the spot weld of the old pin, drive it out, and make my own replacement pin. Thanks much!
 
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