How fast do you plan on going?
Fox Body chassis/suspension advice...
I am wondering how you guys think this looks for some chassis strength. If I am missing something important or I have something I don't need, let em know. The rear end is an Explorer 31 spline (I think) with discs, converted to 4-lug (don't know why, that's how I bought it)
traction/lift bars (probably UMI or Lakewood)
weld in sub frame connectors with floor braces
boxed factory upper control arms with poly bushings
70/30 struts up front
50/50 shocks in the rear
6pt roll cage
uhm... yeah, that is all I have right now, still reading around and everything...
traction/lift bars (probably UMI or Lakewood)
weld in sub frame connectors with floor braces
boxed factory upper control arms with poly bushings
70/30 struts up front
50/50 shocks in the rear
6pt roll cage
uhm... yeah, that is all I have right now, still reading around and everything...
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
low 10's for sure.... may be 9's....How fast do you plan on going?
i wouldnt use factory rear control arms they suck to say the least i bent mine with the 4 banger when i bought it that way i spent $200 on new ones with poly bushings for upper an lower control arms
Unless you set your pinion angle when you installed the lift bars,i'd go with an adjustable upper arm.And weld up those torque boxes!They're only spot welded from the factory and have been known to pull out at that power level.
Russ
Russ
Nothing on that list is installed yet except the 8.8 disc rear. Thanks for reminding me about the torque boxes!!Unless you set your pinion angle when you installed the lift bars,i'd go with an adjustable upper arm.And weld up those torque boxes!They're only spot welded from the factory and have been known to pull out at that power level.
Russ
Bump!
weld up the torque boxs, after you make sure they are not already tweaked.
battle boxs, weld the plates to the floor.
adjustable uppers. solid bushing's
call team z. (they have lowers that have adjustable lower mounting points at the rear end)
call baseline suspension.(they make custom offset uppers per each car.)
90/10 fronts with the correct spring ratio in a coil over.(scale it when its complete and full of fluids)
or adjsutable front struts, and adjustable rear shocks.
i wont ever use lift bars again.
they relocate the lower control arm. but how do you know if they move it to where it needs to be for your car.? the car has a 4 link. use it like one. set up it right the first time and be done. you can do that buy having it completed, and plotting the 4 link.
thru the floor sub frame connectors.
others should chime in. but if not, lots of good reading here http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?PHPSESSID=6c8324e1d7a4c0dcda1965a29a7a9be4&board=30.0
and on yellowbullet.com
battle boxs, weld the plates to the floor.
adjustable uppers. solid bushing's
call team z. (they have lowers that have adjustable lower mounting points at the rear end)
call baseline suspension.(they make custom offset uppers per each car.)
90/10 fronts with the correct spring ratio in a coil over.(scale it when its complete and full of fluids)
or adjsutable front struts, and adjustable rear shocks.
i wont ever use lift bars again.
they relocate the lower control arm. but how do you know if they move it to where it needs to be for your car.? the car has a 4 link. use it like one. set up it right the first time and be done. you can do that buy having it completed, and plotting the 4 link.
thru the floor sub frame connectors.
others should chime in. but if not, lots of good reading here http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?PHPSESSID=6c8324e1d7a4c0dcda1965a29a7a9be4&board=30.0
and on yellowbullet.com
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
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