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Discussion Starter #1
Well I finally got my front coilover conversion installed. NOTE: for those wishing to use front coilovers. Go ahead and 'spring' for the aftermarket Caster Camber plates!

I'm using 14" x 175# Afco front springs (Thanks Ron!) along with a UPR coil over kit and UPR Steel Billet C/C plates. Front struts are Lakewood 90/10.

I was running Moroso trick front springs along with the lakewoods. Any of you guys switched from coil springs to coil overs? If so, what were the results? Did your short times improve?

Thanks



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Discussion Starter #3
dfree383 said:
Did you run it with them yet? What where the results?
Nope I haven't ran the car with the coil overs yet. I got them installed on Sunday and I'm hoping to go racing this coming Saturday, depending on the weather.

I have the coil overs adjusted all the way down. I'd like for the front to be just a little bit lower. Only way to make it lower would be to use a 12" X 175# spring or maybe a 14" x 150# spring.



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Coil over results

Phantases466,

I have the same problem 14" by 175# springs with the adj. all the way down , I would like for mine to sit a little lower also . I was also told by several guys at my local track not to run them adjusted all the down, they said it would have a negative effect on my 60 ft !! Please let me know what you come up with .....

Thanks,
Blake
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I don't really see how it would have a negative affect since all it's doing is moving the ride height by a few inches. The springs will be compressed the same amount and will have the same amount of stored energy.

Unless I'm mistaken :? If so someone please explain.

Mine are adjusted where there's approximately 1 to 1.5 threads left on the bottom. It's very 'Springy' :p



I'll be sure to let you guys know!



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Damon with the springs all the way down, do you have any compression on them? If not & the car sits too high then the spring is too heavy. Compressing the spring stores energy to help lift the front end on the launch. Since you have them on, give them a try. Then mabe try a lighter spring to get the ride height & spring compression & see if it helps. QA1 springs are $34 a piece. Hope the weather holds out for you this weekend.

:oops: sorry I didn't read all of your last post. Didn't mean to repeat what you had written. :oops:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
sorry I didn't read all of your last post. Didn't mean to repeat what you had written.
No Problem Chris,

Based on how much I have to jack up the front end to get the wheels off the ground, I have a LOT of front end travel. I'm going to do as you say and run it as is for now and in the future if/when I get another set of springs I'll try some 14" x 150# springs.

When I was shopping for coil over kits I found several sets of springs on e-bay for reasonable prices, mostly HAL springs.



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Discussion Starter #8
I forgot to mention my settings.

According to the instructions a Drag setup needed 3 to 4 degrees of Caster. Well when I installed the new C/C plates and coil over kit I set the struts about where they were before just to have a starting point.

So first thing I do is check the caster and it's at 8 degrees :?: :?: Well that's fine with me I guess unless I'm measuring wrong. I checked the strut angle with a digital protractor at ride height so I'm assuming that I'm doing it correctly :?:

Next I set the Camber and the drivers side was dead on -0.5 so I left it there. The passenger side was at +.7 so I adjusted it to -0.5

Now call me lucky but after setting the Caster, Camber and ride height I proceded to check the toe and it was right where I had it before at 1/16" toe IN :!: I didn't have to adjust the toe....... :D



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Discussion Starter #11
Falcon67 said:
Phantasea466 said:
Weekend weather outlook for MP Dragway in Clay City Ky..... HOT!!!!!

http://www.weather.com/weather/weekend/USKY0782?from=36hr_topnav_undeclared
Ha - you call that hot? We'd party in that kinda weather and wear jackets.
:lol: :lol: :lol: :shock:

It's HOT for me :p
If it's above 90 and humid I'd rather stay in the A/C, I know I'm spoiled :p



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Damon, you are fine on your castor setting. I believe most tube chassied cars like mine have the struts set at about 10 degrees positive castor(laid back at the top).
 

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Now that the springs are on the front of car you can't do a full check for bump-steer/un-wanted toe change problems because you can't fully compress the suspension. But you can kinda do a quick partial bump-steer check with it on the ground at ride height if you have time.

You said the toe-in was 1/16", (I'm guessing that's around ride height) write that down and then get the floorjack. Raise the front of the car a small set amount (1/2", 3/4", 1", or whatever) and measure the toe again. then raise it again, and measure toe again. Keep repeating this untill you run out of suspension travel.

This should give you a partial idea or "map" of what the toe is doing throughout part (extension) of the suspension travel.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
D.I.L.L.I.G.A.S. said:
Now that the springs are on the front of car you can't do a full check for bump-steer/un-wanted toe change problems because you can't fully compress the suspension. But you can kinda do a quick partial bump-steer check with it on the ground at ride height if you have time.

You said the toe-in was 1/16", (I'm guessing that's around ride height) write that down and then get the floorjack. Raise the front of the car a small set amount (1/2", 3/4", 1", or whatever) and measure the toe again. then raise it again, and measure toe again. Keep repeating this untill you run out of suspension travel.

This should give you a partial idea or "map" of what the toe is doing throughout part (extension) of the suspension travel.

Thanks Dave!

I'll check it out. My front end is all stock including the K-member, the exception being the new coil overs and drag struts along with the new C/C plates.

This winter, if the money is flowing freely, I'll get a tube K-membe and tube A-arms along with different spindles and larger front brakes.



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