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Just curious how everyone is cleaning up their engine bays. I would like to fill in all the holes and I can think of several ways to do it.

1. Weld them all up. I have a mig welder but not much welding experience.
2. Buy fender aprons from Dugan Racing. I heard they are not that great though.
3. Fibreglass/Duraglass? I have absolutley no experience.
4. Fabricate some kind of sheetmetal covers and weld then on. I don't have a brake nor do I know anyone who has one.
5. Pay someone else to do it.

Thanks,
-Allen
 

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Weld them up then use a SKIM coat of putty to produce an even finish.

Brian
 

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Duct Tape

Duct tape works. Bubble Gum?

Seriously, I watched a guy weld those holes...and by the time he was done he had a far bigger mess than if he'd just left them alone. Not to mention what it looked like from the fender-well side. Egads.

Unless you are prepared to spend serious time on a really mundane task that yields zero ET change, I would just leave it alone. Unless of course it's a show car. In that case, weld it up, polish it smooth, and chrome it.
 

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If you got a mig ya need to practice....play with the settings........you can weld up the holes by using a copper spoon and the weld will be smooth and not stick to the copper....grind it and putty it if need be....if the hole is big just fab up some plugs or covers.................D
 

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Like the others said, weld them up using a welders copper spoon to backup the smaller holes and make patches and weld them in for the larger holes. I eliminated most of the welding in the front aprons by fabricating my own covers and welding them in. Use body filler to do the final smoothing. My engine bay will powdercoated so I will by using Labmetal to smooth everything over.

 

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Maxed said:
Just curious how everyone is cleaning up their engine bays. I would like to fill in all the holes and I can think of several ways to do it.
-Allen
Welding them takes way longer than I thought it would (my 87 Fox T-bird), and for them to be show-car smooth, still would require body-filler. These Fox cars have a rediculous amount of extra holes in the inner fenders/strut-towers because of all the different engine combos available through the years.

An alternative that I would probably do next time is to rivet bead-rolled aluminum covers over all of the flat panels and only weld the obvious holes that are not covered. I saw this done at a chassis shop and it really looked trick for a reasonable amount of $$$.
 

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Doug Rahn said:
Like the others said, weld them up using a welders copper spoon to backup the smaller holes and make patches and weld them in for the larger holes. I eliminated most of the welding in the front aprons by fabricating my own covers and welding them in. Use body filler to do the final smoothing. My engine bay will powdercoated so I will by using Labmetal to smooth everything over.


Damn Doug, she's lookin' good and that engine.... :shock:

Hope ya don't mind but I'm stealing your naca duct idea for a little fresh air.
 

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JR545 said:
Doug Rahn said:
Like the others said, weld them up using a welders copper spoon to backup the smaller holes and make patches and weld them in for the larger holes. I eliminated most of the welding in the front aprons by fabricating my own covers and welding them in. Use body filler to do the final smoothing. My engine bay will powdercoated so I will by using Labmetal to smooth everything over.

Damn Doug, she's lookin' good and that engine.... :shock:

Hope ya don't mind but I'm stealing your naca duct idea for a little fresh air.
Thanks, it's starting to come together now. This weekend I took the car off the rotisserie and started to do a completed build up of the whole car to make sure I didn't miss anything, then I will disassemble everything and then it goes to paint and powdercoat. Credit for the engine assembly goes to Lem, Charlie and Jet Boat Bob. All I did was pick out the parts that went in it.

The NACA duct deal is something I had to come up with to get some air in the car since I had to block of the vent cowl in front of the windshield. My Aeroscoop goes all the way to the windshield and covered it up, so I had to find some other way to get some air in there. A NACA duct will work great without adding any drag to the car.
 

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Doug Rahn said:
................... My engine bay will powdercoated so I will by using Labmetal to smooth everything over.



Doug,

You found an oven large enough to bake the powder on your underhood portion in? Or will the powder be cured using some UV lights???

The car's looking good. If you don't mind I'm stealing some of your little touches that you did to that Wolfe cage and doing it to my car.

Also, that motorplate file you sent me a looong time ago finally got cut last week on some 6061. It looks nice sitting down between the rails... now if I can just get that engine mocked I'll feel like I'm getting somewhere!
 

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The powdercoater's oven is 20 ft. long so we can roll the car in there while it's on the rotisserie. They are also going to powdercoat the complete underside of the car and the roll cage. Help yourself to anything I've done, and if you have any questions, drop me and E-mail anytime.
 

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How will the heat affect the car? Doesn't it have to be heated to 3-400 degrees?

Also, I thought powdering cages was a big no-no now with the NHRA. They said it throws off the sonic check for thickness or something like that. That's something to keep in mind for re-certs down the road.
 

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jbozzelle said:
How will the heat affect the car? Doesn't it have to be heated to 3-400 degrees?

Also, I thought powdering cages was a big no-no now with the NHRA. They said it throws off the sonic check for thickness or something like that. That's something to keep in mind for re-certs down the road.
There's nothing in the rulebook that says you can't powercoat.
 

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Doug its looking good as you would expect coming from you...That HotRod of yours is going to be a looker and a screamer when done..

I bet you cant wait!! I cant!! LOL..

Russ
 
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