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I have decided to put in a rear anti-roll bar. Below is the kit I was thinking about getting. I just wondered if anybody had any opinions on this choice. I was also wondering if anybody had any pictures of their rear anti roll bar that they could post for me. Any brand will do...

The link below is what I was thinking about getting:
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-chrome-moly-double-anti-roll-bar-kit.html

Thanks in advance for your thoughs.
 

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The double links isnt needed bud.. I have the UPR.. Its been good to me.. but I wouldnt buy it again for my car.. The links aren't hex or anything, just round.. So its a pain in the butt to tweak pre-load. Have to use channel locks to hold it still while you break the nuts loose and then fine adjust..

It also depends on how low your car sits.. if you want to slam it.. dont get it because where this style sits in the frame.. you will have clearance issues with the upper control arms hitting the arb.. especially if you have a upper with a "shoe box" like the UPR's.. and especially if you have a 9" with raised uppers. Or if you have the "relocated uppers" bracket..

The other thing I dont like about the UPR is.. the ends (bushings) they send are "roller bearings".. sounds cool right? But they arent near as strong as a brass bushing like most of the nicer ones. And the UPR doesnt have grease fittings on the ends either so you cant maintain it.. I drilled and tapped mine so I could install grease fittings. And lastly.. the UPR is a solid bar.. so it is heavy for one.. and weaker than a tubular.. Not alot of people are aware that a tubular bar is stronger than a solid bar.. there is more surface area (outside of tube and inside of tube).. ofcorse the thickness of tube makes a difference in this and a .10" thick tube wont be stronger than a 2" solid bar.. but a correct thickness tubing will be stronger, and alot lighter.
Im a fan of the kits that allow you mount the ARB on a bar, and send long unwelded links so you cut you links yourself. Either install it over the axle in the car and have a bar coming acorss there.. or have a bar between frame rails , behind rear, with it mounted on it.. There are some arb's out there that you can cut to length and mount it like the UPR straight to frame just wherever you want.. I prefer the arb to be behind the rear with the arms going forward. I also like the kits that have the plates to where you can unbolt the antiroll from the frame if you want.

Here is a few pics.. the first one is my UPR in my car back in the day.. Next one is a car just finished up last week. I can get you more pics if you want.





Heres the recent car.. kind of hard to see now that Im trying to show you.. Ill get some better pics of the setup if you want..





 

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Discussion Starter #4
I really appreciate the pic's and the advice Hambone. It is most helpful. I needed the pic's because I just wasn't sure how they went on but I can clearly see how it goes on and works now. My car like the one in the last few pictures has a 9 inch housing with the Jegs axle housing braces welded on. So I think that means that my ARB will have to go on the frong of the housing unless the tabs can be welded onto the Jegs axle housing brace.
 

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I really appreciate the pic's and the advice Hambone. It is most helpful. I needed the pic's because I just wasn't sure how they went on but I can clearly see how it goes on and works now. My car like the one in the last few pictures has a 9 inch housing with the Jegs axle housing braces welded on. So I think that means that my ARB will have to go on the frong of the housing unless the tabs can be welded onto the Jegs axle housing brace.

If you have the 9".. its going to have to go behind it or with one thats above it like the first one i showed.. The 9" and "normal location" ARB dont mix. I have my car sitting higher than I want so it wont hit now even with the new control arms.. Its not that it hits on the launch since my antisquat and all that is good to go.. but a bump at end of track or something and it will ding it pretty good. The way I have my car setup.. I want it in the dirt.. so low that right now the ARB would almost sit on the control arms right now.. one of these days im going to move this one, mount one like in first pics but on a bar behind the rear between the frame rails with the ARB arms facing forward.. Too busy buying go faster parts for now though. lol.. and yes the ARB tabs can be welded anywhere..
 

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WOW!! Those pictures are excellent. Just what I needed. I now know how I need to install it. It will definitely go on the rear of the axle housing. I have the UPR upper and lower control arms so I don't want them to get into a bind with the ARB. I'll just have to weld the tabs onto the slightly angled part of the Jegs axle housing brace. The tabs won't point directly rearward but I don't think that will be a big issue. They will still hold the axle housing square with the body just fine. I really appreciate you posting the pictures. The zerc fittings were a very nice touch as well.
 

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yeah thats a pretty good video.. good for your straight forward stockish cars and stock location ARB.. The preload talk is good info too.. pay close attention to the "square and centered rear".. thats a mandatory on a triangulated 4 link.. no preload what so ever with the control arms.. then add some weight with the ARB.. it doesnt take much to change how the car launches (left/right) alot.. one fuell rotation of that downlink bar is moving 80-90lbs of preload. Thats a good base setting in the video.. but dont think that its going to be perfect and go for broke on the first hit.. it may need minor tweaking one way or the other.. If it goes right.. add preload to right rear or lengthen the link as he said.. if it goes left.. just shorten it.. an 1/8th turn or "flat" with their ARB is enough make a car that is leaving and trailing right.. go straight.. so dont get under there and put 2 or 3 full turns in it.. lol. at the most 3 or 4 passes of fine tuning to the ARB and you're ready to go straight forever. Throw the kitchen sink at her and let it eat.. lol
 

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Will say first Ham knows a hell of a lot more about racing fox's than I do. With that said you might also want to check out Wolfe Racecraft's ARB. That's what I welded up this weekend and its a really nice piece. Has the bronze bushing like the Team Z.
 

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Hambone,

Can I ask what stroke and spring rate you used in your older setup?
My set up is like your old and I have 7" stroke shocks with 110# springs. Yes my car is up too dang high. I bought as a roller and that was what they had on there. I'm thinking a 5" stroke with #110's. The problem I'm having is now that I'm getting more power on launch (new converter) now they are bottoming out.
 

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Thanks for posting the video. That was excellent!! Now I think I want a Team Z ARB instead of a UPR. Thanks again. Most helpful!!
In order.......
1. Team Z
2. Racecraft
3. Wolfe
 
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