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Hello People...

I've been working on my 93 notchback for the last couple of weekends. I've got the engine, transmission, rearend and front K-member pulled out of it. I have a Jegster 12 point cage that I'm going to start welding in it next weekend. I was hoping I could talk the guys that have done this before into posting some pictures of their roll cages and how they are mounted and attached. You know... Where on the inside floor board they have the hoop mounted. How they ran the rear bars and where they are mounted. I also haven't decided if I should run the front bars that go into the engine bay inside of the engine compartment or if I should run them through the inside of the fenders and then bring them back into the engine bay. I have a UPR front k-member that I've cut the motor mount pads off of and I'll be using a front motor plate from Total Performance out of Michigan so the motor sits lower in the engine bay. I also have a set of Mad Dog headers that went with the motor plate. Any help, advice or pictures that you could post would be most helpful. Thanks in advance!!
 

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Chris what are you using for a seat? Get your seat position figured out before you try to install the hoop. Once you have that figured get the wife out there with a Sharpie and mark the hieght of your shoudlers inside of the door frame for referance, also drop a stringline down over your shoulder and mark that spot on the floor that will be where you want to put the front edge of the tube for the main hoop.
 

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Chris what are you using for a seat? Get your seat position figured out before you try to install the hoop. Once you have that figured get the wife out there with a Sharpie and mark the hieght of your shoudlers inside of the door frame for referance, also drop a stringline down over your shoulder and mark that spot on the floor that will be where you want to put the front edge of the tube for the main hoop.
I was going to get some kind or Kirkey. Got any suggestions on make and model seat? I was going to order it either tomorrow or Monday so it was here by next weekend. Also do I need some kind of rails to bolt the seat to the floor with? I'm not sure I need them. I sure don't need to sit up high. I'm 6'4" and 250 pounds. I'm slightly worried that once I get the door bars in I won't be able to get in the thing. I put the stock Mustang seats in my truck when I caged that because the bench seat didn't work when caged. I drove the Mustang a few times with no seats at all. I seemed to fit fine... Not real safe but I'm way out in the country and was just going down the road.
 

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I would get your seat first and see if you need to raise it any if not I would mount it right to the floor. The last time I used aftermarket seats I used the fiberglass ones and they are not very comfortable that's for sure. I know what you mean about getting in and out, I thought about putting in a swingout doorbar more than once but I just don't like them (don't seem strong enough). Some things I did was put the shouder bar as low as I could legally which also allows you to lower the back end of the doorbar lower.
 

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I would get your seat first and see if you need to raise it any if not I would mount it right to the floor. The last time I used aftermarket seats I used the fiberglass ones and they are not very comfortable that's for sure. I know what you mean about getting in and out, I thought about putting in a swingout doorbar more than once but I just don't like them (don't seem strong enough). Some things I did was put the shouder bar as low as I could legally which also allows you to lower the back end of the doorbar lower.
X2 on mounting the seat 1st. You will also need it into make sure the door bars are at the correct hight. If you are looking for good cheap seats with mounts look at the Scat Procar ones. They are really comfortable and do not cost and arm and a leg. Jegs has them in stock. They are the ones I used in the 63.

Clay
 

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X2 on mounting the seat 1st. You will also need it into make sure the door bars are at the correct hight. If you are looking for good cheap seats with mounts look at the Scat Procar ones. They are really comfortable and do not cost and arm and a leg. Jegs has them in stock. They are the ones I used in the 63.

Clay
Thanks for the tip. I was looking at the Procar ones but I wondered how good they were made and how they would hold up.. If we are talking about the same ones they are about $159 a piece and you don't have to buy a seat cover for them. I think I will give them a try. They look pretty cool as well. Did your's hold up well and not look real cheap I guess?
 

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That is terrible... I'm color blind and I didn't even notice that the floors were cut out. ...duh. I see it now that you said something. It all looked the same to me. Good thing I know for sure that the last bulb on the bottom of the tree is GREEN!! Otherwise I'd probably sit there for a while until I finally noticed that the other guy is gone! :eek:
 

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Yep Ranger got it. that car was a back half deal. The bar under the seat is a frame connector to the front clip from the new front four link crossmember. Glad I could help.

dkp
 

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Do you have an NHRA rulebook? I think some of the mounting points like the hoop have to be in certain places,I know they like the doorbars to intersect your arm somewhere I don't know exactly(alot of it will be in the nhra rulebook,I just don't have one handy).
As far as seat mounts,I'm gonna use these in my newest project:

http://shop.holcombmotorsports.com/product.sc?productId=1275&categoryId=68

With these seats, I'm gonna have a friend make me some covers that will match the gray and black of the car:

http://shop.holcombmotorsports.com/product.sc?productId=1377:
Good luck,
Jr.
 

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Here is the rules I based mine off from and it NHRA teched to 9.99 and an inspector said it will tech to 8.50 certification once I decide to pay for the inspection (nice having friends who do it for a living).

ROLL BARS{reprint from IHRA Rulebook}
Mandatory in all cars running 11.49 or quicker, or per class
requirements. All roll bars must be within 6 inches of the rear or
side of the driver's head, extend in height at least 3 inches above
the driver's helmet with driver in normal driving position, and be at
least as wide as the driver's shoulders or within 1 inch of the
driver's door. Rollbar must be adequately supported or cross-braced
to prevent forward or lateral collapse. Rear braces must be
of the same diameter and wall thickness as the roll bar and
intersect with the roll bar at a point not more than 5 inches from
the top of the roll bar. Sidebar must be included on driver's side
and must pass the driver at a point midway between the shoulder
and elbow. Swing-out sidebar permitted. All roll bars must have in
their construction a cross bar for seat bracing and as the shoulder-
harness attachment point; cross bar must be installed no more
than 4 inches below, and not above, the driver's shoulders or to
side bar. All vehicles with OEM frame (i.e. pickup truck where body
bolts to framerails) must have roll bar welded or bolted to frame.
Installation of frame connectors on unibody cars does not
constitute a frame; therefore, it is not necessary to have the roll bar
attached to the frame. Unibody cars with stock floor and firewall
(wheeltubs permitted) may attach roll bar with 6-inch x 6-inch x
.125-inch steel plates on top and bottom of floor bolted together
with at least four 3/8-inch bolts and nuts, or weld main hoop to
rocker sill area with .125-inch reinforcing plates, with plates welded
completely. All 4130 chrome moly tube welding must be done by
approved TIG heliarc process; mild steel welding must be done by
approved MIG wire feed or approved TIG heliarc process. Welding
must be free of slag and porosity. Any grinding of welds prohibited.
Roll bar must be padded anywhere driver's helmet
may contact it while in driving position. Adequate padding must
have minimum 1/4-inch compression or meet SFI Spec 45.1.
ROLL CAGE{reprint}
Mandatory in all cars running quicker than 10.99 seconds or faster
than 135 mph, or per class requirements. Cars with unaltered
firewall, floor and body (from firewall rearward, wheeltubs
permitted) running between 10.00 and 10.99, roll bar permitted in
place of roll cage, or per Class Requirements. Cars with altered
firewall, floor faster than 11.49 must have rollcage and window net.
All cage structures must be designed in an attempt to protect the
driver from any angle, 360 degrees. All 4130 chrome-moly tube
welding must be done by approved TIG heliarc process; mild steel
tube welding must be approved MIG wire feed or TIG heliarc
process. Welding must be free of slag and porosity. Any grinding of
welds prohibited. Additionally, roll cage must be padded anywhere
the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position.
With driver in driving position, helmet must be in front of main
hoop. If helmet is behind or under main hoop, additional tubing,
same size and thickness as roll cage, must be added to protect
driver. Main hoop may be laid back or forward, but driver must be
encapsulated within the required roll cage components. On
unibody cars with stock floor and firewall (wheel tubs permitted),
the roll cage may be bolted or welded to the floor/rocker box via 6-
inch x 6-inch x .125-inch steel plates
Unless attaching to OEM floor or frame, the minimum requirements for a
frame member to which a roll cage member is attached are 1 5/8-
inch x .118-inch MS or .083-inch CM round and/or 2-inch x 2-inch
x .058 MS or CM rectangular.
All cage structures must have in their construction a cross bar for
seat bracing and as the shoulder-harness attachment point; cross
bar must be installed no more than 4 inches below, and not above,
the driver's shoulders, or to side bar. All required rear braces must
be installed at a minimum angle of 30 degrees from vertical and
must be welded in. Side bar must pass the driver at a point midway
between the shoulder and elbow.Unless an OEM framerail is located below and outside of driver's
legs, a rocker or sill bar, minimum 1 5/8-inch x .083 CM or .118 MS
or 2-inch x 2-inch x .058-inch CM or MS rectangular, is mandatory
in any car with a modified floor or rocker box within the roll-cage
uprights (excluding 6 square feet of transmission maintenance
opening). Rocker bar must be installed below and outside of
driver's legs and must tie into the main hoop, the forward hoop,
frame, frame extension, or side diagonal. Rocker bar may not tie
into swing-out side bar support. If rocker bar ties into side diagonal
more than 5 inches (edge to edge) from forward roll-cage support
or main hoop, a 1 5/8-inch x .083 CM or .118 MS brace/gusset is
mandatory between the diagonal and forward roll-cage support or
main hoop.

The section I have in red are the reason that the seat must be mounted before you sart to install the rollcage.
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Yea,it has to fit the driver,but there's still adjustment that can be done here if you have to adjust it a little to get it perfect:

Most of the foxbodies I see run the down bar in the front through the speaker covers,I've seen them not done that way and it's not so hot lol,makes everything harder,maybe ok in a race car but in a street car you'd have to get into more than once it would suck. On the car in the pic we removed the armrest on the door completely to make more room for the door bar so we could move it out a little to make it not so cramped. On that car we monkeyed with the swing out bar til it tracked right with the door when opened so it all works smooth,usually open them together. Have you mocked it up yet? I bet when you do,where everything goes will fall right into place,with the rules too.
Good luck,
Jr.
 
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