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Guys,
Just hooked up with a few new supplier agreements that will broaden the range of parts available from my fledgling warehouse operation. Haven't yet loaded them out to the website - - but I'll get them in soon. If you need anything in the meantime just call or e-mail - - I always answer.

We now have Scat cranks, rods, and rotating assemblies!
We now have Stef's oil pans, tanks, and fabbed aluminum tidbits
We now have B&B misc. race car stuff - - valvetrain, trinkets

I've been adding more data for Blue Thunder
I redid Probe pistons to take a few clicks out of the search.
And I am actively selling camshafts from inventory.

I just spent several hours installing a new lockset, washing windows and sweeping floors in preparation for the new shelf racks that should arrive tomorrow. My little corner warehouse is gonna start looking pretty official...
 

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A little heads up on the Stefs pans. Although they are really pretty, you hafta goop the crap out of the front & back or it'll leak oil & they don't clear 1 tube on Hooker #6201's. I also had a problem with the scraper hitting an Eagle rod on a stock stroke crank.
 

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Rick,
Thanks for the compliment on looks, lets address your other issues;

We recommend a 3/8" bead of silicone. Apply to block and let is start to set up a little. Then put the pan on. Torquing with an even load.

OEM pans have alot of give in the stamping. With our aluminum or steel pans we have found the silicone is the best way to go.

On the header clearance. If you can send me a photo of where that Hooker number hits the pan we will make note of it for future builds for customers using this combination.

Thanks,
 

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I'll get one for you as soon as I get the header back on. On a side note, it's uncommon for a company to ask for input & I for one take it as a compliment. You are now the second company I can say actually cares. Kudos :D
 

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If you don't listen you don't learn. With pride I say "we build custom oil pans" and they should fit your application. Dealers like Lem Evans and Barry R trust us to make them look good when it comes to oil systems. Nothing more frustrating then to try and install an engine and it won't fit because of the pan.

Thanks for your support of Stef's Performance and good luck in '06.
 

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cstraub said:
Rick,
Thanks for the compliment on looks, lets address your other issues;

We recommend a 3/8" bead of silicone. Apply to block and let is start to set up a little. Then put the pan on. Torquing with an even load.

OEM pans have alot of give in the stamping. With our aluminum or steel pans we have found the silicone is the best way to go.

On the header clearance. If you can send me a photo of where that Hooker number hits the pan we will make note of it for future builds for customers using this combination.

Thanks,
Chris,

We had the same trouble with our pan - it leaked like a seive front and back. We added a 1/4" high bead of weld front and back then used a die grinder to make the pan profile match a cardboard template we made. The leaks are solved without the use of any silicone except for a little dab at the normal location - the transition from the rail gasket to the rubber end seals.

Why not just make the pans fit? Using a large quantity of silicone seems like a poor solution to seal the pan. That's what the gaskets/seals are for.

Other than the front and rear sealing issue - the pan is a nice piece of work and seems to control oil very well.
 
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