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Discussion Starter #1
This coming spring I plan to start building a 460 for towing. Going into an 1985 F-250 HD. Bumper towing as I am not a fan of 5th wheels. Currently running a C6 with 3.55 gearing but looking into a ZF5 swap. If that changes requirements for the build then assume it will be mated to a ZF5.

Wanted some input from anyone that has done a build or part swaps for towing. I have a short list running from little research and various engine builds I have seen. Some good suggestions on here in the archives but want to see if anything really has changed. If I get a good enough parts list, I can start looking out for deals and stock up. Would do it now but my garage isn't heated and not really much room at the present.

The only thing I know so far is that I want low rpm torque. Only have a couple specific products chosen but still a lot other items left to fill in.
  • FiTech EFI setup along with what other fuel related items they recommend. Seen enough usage of these systems and I am sold.
  • Cloyes Original Race True Roller Timing Set. To get back to straight timing.
  • Canton Racing Main Cap Girdle. Sure I can live without it but I like the idea of bullet proofing.
  • ARP hardware throughout.
So what I really need is parts to put together a long block. Not afraid to spend some money but would like to come in under $6k. I am in the Portland OR area and would love some engine shop recommendations for some machining and other possible help with the build.

Thanks
 

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This coming spring I plan to start building a 460 for towing. Going into an 1985 F-250 HD. Bumper towing as I am not a fan of 5th wheels. Currently running a C6 with 3.55 gearing but looking into a ZF5 swap. If that changes requirements for the build then assume it will be mated to a ZF5.

Wanted some input from anyone that has done a build or part swaps for towing. I have a short list running from little research and various engine builds I have seen. Some good suggestions on here in the archives but want to see if anything really has changed. If I get a good enough parts list, I can start looking out for deals and stock up. Would do it now but my garage isn't heated and not really much room at the present.

The only thing I know so far is that I want low rpm torque. Only have a couple specific products chosen but still a lot other items left to fill in.
  • FiTech EFI setup along with what other fuel related items they recommend. Seen enough usage of these systems and I am sold.
  • Cloyes Original Race True Roller Timing Set. To get back to straight timing.
  • Canton Racing Main Cap Girdle. Sure I can live without it but I like the idea of bullet proofing.
  • ARP hardware throughout.
So what I really need is parts to put together a long block. Not afraid to spend some money but would like to come in under $6k. I am in the Portland OR area and would love some engine shop recommendations for some machining and other possible help with the build.

Thanks
Didn't I speak with you on the phone about this build?



S
 

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It was not I but I have seen your posts about recommendations for towing builds. Sounds right in line with what I want to accomplish. Not too well learnt on what makes what a good combo let alone the quick and dirty suggestions.

I did plan to contact you when I am ready to get started. Well within traveling distance since I see you are few hours north of me.
 

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It was not I but I have seen your posts about recommendations for towing builds. Sounds right in line with what I want to accomplish. Not too well learnt on what makes what a good combo let alone the quick and dirty suggestions.

I did plan to contact you when I am ready to get started. Well within traveling distance since I see you are few hours north of me.
We would be happy to work with you Jim.
This type of combination is very popular and I spoke earlier this week with a gentleman in the Portland Vancouver area with an 80s truck wanting the exact same type of build using Fitech as well.



S
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Oh I can see how you thought that!

Plan to slowly get parts over the winter and be ready for late spring. Know I will be needing some machining done and maybe new heads assembled.

So for now any part suggestions and sources would be helpful. Otherwise summit racing and jegs are the only two I know.
 

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Oh I can see how you thought that!

Plan to slowly get parts over the winter and be ready for late spring. Know I will be needing some machining done and maybe new heads assembled.

So for now any part suggestions and sources would be helpful. Otherwise summit racing and jegs are the only two I know.
PM sent.



S
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah I'm not dying to have it. Just saw it in a build video and looked like a cool idea.

Who has done electric water pumps on their 460? I have seen some threads agreeing that they work great though they seem to be racing built engines where they run them between runs and in the pits. I am wondering about GPM. What sort of flow rate do stock pumps do?
 

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Just like the stud girdle, an electric water pump is over kill. I run a 528 in my class A motorhome. Move 20,500# down the road from 250' below sea level to 11,000' feet above with the stock water pump with no heating problems. I can tell you there is a ton of difference in radiators. A 20 fin per inch radiator will out cool a 15 fin per inch radiator by more than 20%. If your tune, exhaust and every thing else is right, then look to your radiator if you need more cooling.

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just like the stud girdle, an electric water pump is over kill.
I don't disagree but I am not after one thinking it out performs belt driven pump. Like the idea of one less belt. Coupled with electric radiator fans will get me better cooling in traffic plus bring down noise from the huge flex fan being gone.

I can tell you there is a ton of difference in radiators. A 20 fin per inch radiator will out cool a 15 fin per inch radiator by more than 20%. If your tune, exhaust and everything else is right, then look to your radiator if you need more cooling.
I do like the idea of more modern efficient radiator. Thanks for the input.
 

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Electric fans, great idea. The electric water pump is totally unnecessary. You would really need to add a second battery if your gonna electrify pump, fans, efi, etc. Belts work, and water pump not much drag by itself. Stud girdle completely unnecessary aswell.

You should stroke the motor out a bit. Do a 521, following the guide line porter has laid down. Maybe upgrade the heads. Eddy heads would be fine on this torque build. Talk about tow something....like a train.

But, I always wonder why folks still want to use a gasser to tow with. Get on eBay. There is this guy that specializes in Cummins pull outs. Has tranny’s and all. He is out of Ohio I believe. I’ll try to get a link. A lot of his pullouts go for 3-4000.00$ and would be fun to put in your old ford. You get more power, waaaaay more fuel economy, it only makes sense. Here is a link, talked to him on phone, this guy is legit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/CUMMINS-P-pump-6BT-5-9-TURBO-DIESEL-ENGINE-frame-cut-Allison-Auto-FREE-SHIPPING/142544294704?hash=item21304d5330:g:DmcAAOSwONBZAZYk&vxp=mtr

Then build that motor for a sweet street project in the future, lol.

Good luck bud.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This will be my entry into towing. It would be towing a travel trailer hitting up some campgrounds around the coast few times a year maybe while rest of the year just cruise and random hauls for the fun of riding in an old truck. So I am fine sticking with the 460 for now and mileage is not something I think or really care about, I already have the good mileage family car. When I want to step up in class, I will probably move into a diesel.

Not going to lie though, I am a big fan of the old 2 stroke detroit diesels. Seen one or two swaps into old fords and it's awesome!

Thanks for all the thoughts on this. While I like to have my mind made up, I do appreciate hearing other thoughts that might put a different perspective on things.
 

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Yes sir. I was just throwing it out there with the link just Incase you where interested. I seen a ‘94 f250 4x4 ext. cab (restored)other day that bout knocked my socks off....it’s funny but those 80’s-90’s trucks are becoming old. Damn time flies. Enjoy your build, I’m going to shop now to file fit some rings👍.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Resurrecting this thread since spring time has happened upon me. Time to get some parts stocked up.

First things first, I need to get a donor engine to get comfortable with. I used to tear down 4 cylinder diesels for building power generators but that was a long time ago. I will want to tear down, clean, and put back together a donor engine. Will take time but really don't want to screw up ~$5k worth of motor cause I just jumped in head first.

While I am doing that, I can get first round of parts ordered. Probably save the heads for later since they are about a month's budget a piece. I am going off Mad Porter's towing build so let me know if I am missing something or spec'd the wrong part. Pretty sure I should have the crank checked out before going to buy a new one, right or just get a new one?


  • Intake Manifold: Edelbrock Performer 460 - 2166
  • Heads: Edelbrock Performer RPM - 60669 / ARP 155-3603 bolt kit
  • Pushrods: Trick Flow Chromoly (assuming I need to measure for the length?)
  • Camshaft: Lunati Voodoo - 10340702 - Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 262/268, Lift .540/.552, 112 lsa (not really good at deciphering camshaft descriptions. think this is right)
  • Camshaft Bearings: Dura-Bond - F-30
  • Lifters: COMP Cams Hydraulic Lifters - 832-16
  • Pistons: Sealed Power - H612CP (30 or 60 depending on any boring I need)
  • Rings: Sealed Power - E-296K
  • Connecting Rods: Eagle Specialty Products - 6605F3D (I put these down erring on the side of caution reusing old connecting rods)
  • Rod Bearings: Clevite CB818P
  • Main Bearings: Clevite MS1039P
  • Oil Pump: M48D and IS-84 driveshaft and 84-CS2 pickup
So those and machining costs should keep me around $5k. Minus various tools and techniques, think that is a complete list?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Finally starting for reals. Got the motor in the nice warm shop for a winter project.

I am wondering if there are any parts I should be saving as I tear down the motor. I plan to get new internals all around. So should I be conscious of what bolts and stuff I pull off?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Got the heads, water pump, and few other troublesome bits off the motor today. Then I got to looking at the casting around the lifters. They are corroded looking and bit taken out. Is this a deal breaker for using this block in a rebuild?

lifter-cast-damage.jpg
 

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Got the heads, water pump, and few other troublesome bits off the motor today. Then I got to looking at the casting around the lifters. They are corroded looking and bit taken out. Is this a deal breaker for using this block in a rebuild?

View attachment 90919


Those are simply casting defects.

A hard no for a solid roller race build but for your needs perfectly fine.



SJ
used 2b RHP



:D
 
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