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I’m looking for advice on the rebuild of the 460 in my ’72 Lincoln Mark IV. Background: I bought the car in 1975 and had it restored 12 years ago, including having a rebuilt engine out of a ’70 Mark III installed. It is a now an occasional street driven show car but having grown up in the muscle car era, I enjoy having power. About 3 months ago I started to notice signs of excessive crankcase pressure (assume bad rings), including oil being pushed from under the intake manifold, front and rear and breather “smoke”. This is disappointing since the engine only has 16,500 miles on it. A local machine shop will be rebuilding the engine but I’d like some ideas / advice before I “order” the rebuild.

Following the advice on this forum on providing information, here goes:

Use – Street

Vehicle info – 5,000 lb.; 3.50:1 Traction-Lok; Stock C6 (may have it rebuilt, also)

Fuel – 93 octane pump gas

Current build – Engine is from a ’70 Mark III Lincoln, bored .030 over (466 cu.in.), ported D0VEC heads, Ferrea valves (intake 2.190”; exhaust 1.71”); Comp Cams Magnum roller rockers; forged Speed Pro pistons; UltraDyne cam – duration 276 / 286 (spec card pic is below - I will likely change the cam); Melling hydraulic lifters; compression ratio ~9.7:1; Melling high volume oil pump; Holley 770 Street Avenger carb; Holley 110 GPH Street Performance fuel pump; Edelbrock Performer Aluminum Intake Manifold (port matched); Mallory Unilite distributor; Pertronix Flame-Thrower coil; Taylor Spiro-Pro ignition wires; 1 7/8” headers by Ford Powertrain Applications; 2 ½” dual Flowmasters

I’ve been told this engine is making about 420 hp and 550 lb.ft. I’d like to increase it to 500 hp at least and up the torque, as well, but I have no hard targets. I figure if I’m having to go spend money to have the engine pulled and rebuilt, I may as well increase the performance. Budget is pretty open, but I’d like to keep it under $3,000.

I know I’ll want a more aggressive cam but don’t know if I can get to my objectives without better/expensive heads.
 

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Focus on building as much torque as you can. At 5000 pounds with a 3.50 gear you need an engine that develops peak hp at about 5200 to 5500 rpm.

Increasing displacement via a stroker kit will help make substantial torque and hp in a very usable RPM range.

Keep the iron heads but pocket port the intake and port the exhaust.
Keep the performer intake but use a jomar power cone.

The FPA headers are perfect for the application but flow master mufflers are restrictive. Get straight through non baffled mufflers.

Are you running a stall convertor? Stall speed if you are?


SJ
used 2b RHP
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the advice. The original builder said he selected the cam that is in it recognizing the need to make a torque engine. A stroker kit was on my mind already so I will probably go that route. A buddy of mine recommended a Scat kit. Looks like those are about $1,500. He also recommended I call Bullet Cams, tell them about my car, its use, etc. and get a custom grind cam cut.

During the original build 12 yrs ago, the guy opened up the exhaust ports but didn't do any intake porting as far as I know. I have hood clearance issues and unfortunately, can't use a Phenolic Carb Spacer.

I need new mufflers anyway so I'll select replacements that are straight through.

The transmission is a stock C6 and it is getting tired. It was rebuilt once back 25 years ago. It used to chirp the tires on the shift to second, but is soft now. I will eventually get it rebuilt. What stall speed or other performance improvements on the trans do you recommend? I'm thinking 2200 - 2500 with a shift kit?
 

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I had a '74 Mark IV when I was a kid. It's one of a very few cars I still miss.

I'd like to go back in time and get it back....with a P-51 headed, roller cammed, 545......and a billet steel shifter column.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Focus on building as much torque as you can. At 5000 pounds with a 3.50 gear you need an engine that develops peak hp at about 5200 to 5500 rpm.

Increasing displacement via a stroker kit will help make substantial torque and hp in a very usable RPM range.

Keep the iron heads but pocket port the intake and port the exhaust.
Keep the performer intake but use a jomar power cone.

The FPA headers are perfect for the application but flow master mufflers are restrictive. Get straight through non baffled mufflers.

Are you running a stall convertor? Stall speed if you are?


SJ
used 2b RHP
Do you have a recommendation on cams? I'm not sure you saw my other reply to your first comments. Thanks.
 
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