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Someone tried to talk me out of putting headers on my 460 dump truck. He tells me no matter what I do I will always have exhaust system leaks. Is there a magical gasket material out there that I won't have a problem with.
 

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I've never had an issue with any gaskets. Felpro or mr gasket. Just make sure the pipes you use have a nice solid flange plate. And are actually flat before fitting. Retorque the bolts a few times after they've seen a few heat cycles and you should be fine.
Graphite gaskets I've not used on exhaust but have used Victor Reinz intakes I believe are graphite and they are the best I've used


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I use a carbon felt gasket....think of a dense cotton candy and thats on both faces ...seals nice
 

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I've never had an issue with any gaskets. Felpro or mr gasket. Just make sure the pipes you use have a nice solid flange plate. And are actually flat before fitting. Retorque the bolts a few times after they've seen a few heat cycles and you should be fine.
Graphite gaskets I've not used on exhaust but have used Victor Reinz intakes I believe are graphite and they are the best I've used


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X2 :)

GD
 

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Percys XXCarbon

Have theses on mine, flanges are rough at best and they seal good, no problems at all.
 

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Once I was helping my son put a 460 into a fox stang and we had a terrible gasket leak. As it turned out the header flange was not pulling up to the head surface. There was a ridge below the exhaust port that caused the problem. Don't remember the # on heads, Headers were 2 1/2" big tubes. Probably just a compatibility issue (too much header & not enough head) LOL. Just watch for this issue if you if you don't want to have to take a grinder to your flanges.
 

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I use the red hi-temp RTV. I put a small bead on the head surface and then install the manifolds or headers using pilot studs as not to smear the silicon out of place. Once they make contact I install the rest of the bolts and replace the pilot studs with bolts as well.I snug them very slightly and let them set up over night. I then torque to spec the next day. I've been doing this for years on all my work trucks as well as the race car with zero leaks.
 

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well here is my trick for header gaskets, I soak them in a bucket of water before installing them, once you have them installed wet start the engine and let them get good and hot then tighten up once and thats it.
 

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I use the red hi-temp RTV. I put a small bead on the head surface and then install the manifolds or headers using pilot studs as not to smear the silicon out of place. Once they make contact I install the rest of the bolts and replace the pilot studs with bolts as well.I snug them very slightly and let them set up over night. I then torque to spec the next day. I've been doing this for years on all my work trucks as well as the race car with zero leaks.
X2. I stopped wasting good money on expensive "it'll seal anything" gaskets years ago. Since most all RTV silicone is basically all the same formula and has almost identical pressure strength and temperature ranges, most any type of RTV will work. (I know this because I attended an 8 hour Lock Tite class years ago and that info is right out of the tech's mouth).
The problem with header sealing is the POS production line headers them selves! I've NEVER seen a set that WASN'T warped right out of the box. Take the time to make the thin azz flanges, that have been warped from welding, flat and you won't need ANY gaskets.
Even the heavy over-the-transom 2" Hooker Super Comps that I have on my boat don't leak, and I haven't run gaskets on the past 2 engines......but the heads AND the flanges are dead flat.
Rob
 

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I use the red hi-temp RTV. I put a small bead on the head surface and then install the manifolds or headers using pilot studs as not to smear the silicon out of place. Once they make contact I install the rest of the bolts and replace the pilot studs with bolts as well.I snug them very slightly and let them set up over night. I then torque to spec the next day. I've been doing this for years on all my work trucks as well as the race car with zero leaks.
X3

didn't know they even still made gaskets for headers lol
 

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I've always found that you're better off with no gaskets. They can't burn out that way!
 

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gaskets

flat. ! straight. ! thick flang, re torque after heat cycle.. i used the fel-pro non stick but they will anyway. put them back on the same way they came off a little WD 40 on both sides to help them seat and reuse... RTV works.!! no gasket required i just didnt like the clean up, a bit messy for me. done....
 

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Bought three pair of headers in my life. Only the Thorleys were flat enough to seal. Two pair had to go to a machine shop to be flattened. Only found one local machine shop that would/could do the job. They used a large belt sander holding the headers by hand. It didn't look very precise but it got the job done.

Had a tour of an engine rebuilding shop many years ago that had a 12-14" disc sander mounted horizontally in a flat table to flatten exhaust manifolds. That looked like the right tool.
 
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