Mounting bracket, puke tank, vacuum regulator. Vacuum regulator is supposed to be on the line from the pump to the engine according to Star Machine. They build the best pumps out there. Their pumps have the vacuum relief valve built onto the pump.
If I remembr correctly from your pics, you are running a wet sump system. Which ever one you choose, you need to run no more than 15" of vacuum. Anything over that starts to pull oil from the wrist pins ,etc & eventually causes engine damage. I try to maintain 10-12 inches on my motor. I run the Moroso 3-vane for wet sumps.
Well for the Moroso pump,Gilmer belt pulleys Moroso puke tank, relief valve,hoses & fittings, I would say $650 to $700. V-belt pulleys are cheaper but I would rather have the Gilmer belt so you don't have to run so much tension on the belt. Man it adds up quick don't it!!
The Moroso I have is simple. Take the pulley off & remove four screws & the front cover comes off. Its a machined fit without a gasket to worry with. Then the internals consist of a rotor with three slots that hold graphite vanes, & shaft bearings. These vanes float & ride against the case to create the vacuum. One thing I learned is that you need some type of baffle where you pull the vacuum from on the engine. If not you will suck to much oil & cause the vanes to stick in the rotor & decrease your vacuum. Some oil is wanted because it lubricates the bearings.My fitting was welded to my valve cover so we made a baffle plate & TIGed it in. You can get screw on fittings from Moroso with a filtered securing nut. That is what I am going to put in my Hemi valve cover.One last thing is to tie a rag around the breather on the puke tank to keep moisture/oil from getting all over the place. Also drain the puke tank regularly.Here is a picture. It shows my set up sort of good.
[/[i mg=http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/1809/toppart4ac.th.jpg] ]The pulley is not cracked !!! I was messing around with the pencil in the editing /resizing phase.Under the plug wire you can see the bracket I made to bolt the vac pump to the head, using a 1"alum block bolted to the head with countersunk allen head bolts.The block was then tapped to bolt the pump into it.The center idler pulley uses the top three wp housing bolts to fasten a 1/4 plate to the motor plate. I used two 45 deg. braces to support the alum. spacer bushing.They are welded to the plate, and the bushing hangs in mid air,because I was afraid that the 5/16 hole in the timing chain cover didn't have enough meat around it to support it.I will try to get some better pictures if anyone is interested.