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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just completed a build and need help with setting idle. I have it bored .030 with c8ve heads with larger valves and mild porting, weiand stealth intake, KB flattop pistons, comp .584 lift cam, and FST 750 carb. When I fired it up it wouldn't idle lower then 3k. I had timing set at 10* mechanical. I noticed my secondary carb fuel bowl was reading high. My fuel pressure was also set at 9 instead of the suggest 6.5. No vacuum lines were connected. I have not tried to run the engine anymore since I reset the fuel pressure. I also did not have the electric choke connected to power. I don't want to keep playing with it as to not wipe my cam. Any thoughts? Help please.
 

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Failure to idle lower could mean huge vacuum leak or timing way off. but running at 2000 above is great to break in cam. Did you prime the oil pump first?
start over, set static timing 15 degrees, set fuel psi to 6. pull sight plugs to verify proper level. pull carb and reset throttle plates so idle transfer slot showing under 0.060 thousand. start motor, rev to 2000-2500 rpm and set timing to 25-35 degrees,squirt around with starting fluid to find any vacuum leaks, check for oil pressure!! and fuel not flooding. wait 20 min. to break in cam, then see if it will idle lower. a new tight motor wil need high idle at first, that big cam you will need to play with idle circut/transfer slots.
 

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With the choke disconnected it may be stuck on the fast idle cam.
 

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I just completed a build and need help with setting idle. I have it bored .030 with c8ve heads with larger valves and mild porting, weiand stealth intake, KB flattop pistons, comp .584 lift cam, and FST 750 carb. When I fired it up it wouldn't idle lower then 3k. I had timing set at 10* mechanical. I noticed my secondary carb fuel bowl was reading high. My fuel pressure was also set at 9 instead of the suggest 6.5. No vacuum lines were connected. I have not tried to run the engine anymore since I reset the fuel pressure. I also did not have the electric choke connected to power. I don't want to keep playing with it as to not wipe my cam. Any thoughts? Help please.
Progress reports?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Progress. I turned the fuel pressure down to 6.5 like FST recommends. I reset timing to 0* at the moment until I can get it to run long enough to get the light on it. I checked my idle air screws and they all were within 1/2 turn from being closed, so I opened them to 1 1/2 turns out to try and get this thing to run. It fires up and runs but only deep into the throttle. Will not idle at all. When it does run it has the loudest sucking sound, I was hoping it was just through the carb but the more I think about it I'm not so sure its not from the intake gasket. I did use the rubber china wall gaskets. Soooo... tomorrow I plan to remove the intake and reset it with new gaskets and use silicone on the end walls. I know I'm probably gonna lose my cam before I get all this figured out but I can't break in the cam until I get do it figured out.
 

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Did you mill the heads a lot? Could be sucking oil through intake if intake is not milled to match. O degrees will not allow a decent idle, . sas far as breaking in cam, recoat lifters with a little break in lube, re-set the valve lash and double check intake to head alingment from milling block, ect. Seal up intake, static time distributer to 10 degrees and at least start it up and run 2000 rpm for 20 min. to finish cam break in. ONCE that is done, then check again for vacum leaks before messing with the carb baseplate idle transfer slots. Get a holley book by dave vizard or similar to explain this.
If you lose a cam lobe you will HAVE to tear whole engine apart to rid all iron shavings out, with intake off, take a good look at dizzy gear wear pattern as well. If you have a wrong gear material you will have eaten up the gear already.
 
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