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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
took the plunge,big money.
like Christmas, the fed x truck delivered the BIG box...
the pieces look beautiful,,,until you line them up.flanges dont line up.
each header is 3 pieces. the main is 2 flanges and runners welded into the 4x collector.
2 other loose runners will plug into the 2 other tubes in the collector.
this eases the install, they say.
to get a good look i bolted the main pieces on the engine on the floor, wide open space.
hard to get 2 bolts in each,out of 4. some i cant get in.bolt flange washer hits the runner and a socket cannot be used.
adding the 2 loose pieces on each side i struggle to get just one bolt in each.
i cannot get bolts in runner #6. it binds as it goes in the slip tube and wont line up...
this is just another snag in my ongoing struggle.
ill call hooker tomorrow yo ask them to take them back...
im about finished, even buying fresh stuff i cant get it like i did 25 yrs ago...
 

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Sorry to hear you are having so much trouble with your build.
On my 429 I had to order a header stud kit then install the studs and then the headers. On two or three of the studs on each side will then have to be taken out [I don't remember which ones] and 3/8 th inch header bolts used. This is after you fool with all the different pieces to get them lined up correctly. I have never used washers on header bolt's.
It will be easier to line up the tubes if you coat the connections with anti seize. Kind of a pain but worth it.
Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry to hear you are having so much trouble with your build.
On my 429 I had to order a header stud kit then install the studs and then the headers. On two or three of the studs on each side will then have to be taken out [I don't remember which ones] and 3/8 th inch header bolts used. This is after you fool with all the different pieces to get them lined up correctly. I have never used washers on header bolt's.
It will be easier to line up the tubes if you coat the connections with anti seize. Kind of a pain but worth it.
Greg
looks like they didnt use a jig when welding. flanges dont line up on welded stuff.
then,"bolt flange washer " hits runner.
the washer is part of their bolt. would need to grind them and do other machine work.
im not going to have the bolts twisting stuff to make it fit/seal...
btw, plenty of space for stick shift stuff,even the fork if not a hydra bearing...
i dont know why they say auto only ??

and tubes that hit each other would need hammered, not me...!
 

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1990 Ford Mustang LX 351M powered!! Project Cherry Bomb!!
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I think you may be on the right track doing assembly on the block first.. would it simplify matters to go ahead and bolt up the tranny and clutch to the engine with the headers installed already, then drop the k-member out of the car unless you have a different k-member. Then install the whole mess from under the car? From what I can tell you have more room doing it that way. May have to pull an reattach the steering shaft, but I think that's about the worst of it by doing it this way... That's the way I've got it planned to do it on mine, and I think that's the only way ppl are able to do a coyote swap on em as a coyote is wider than a big block... Most ppl don't realize that when they want to do a coyote swap!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think you may be on the right track doing assembly on the block first.. would it simplify matters to go ahead and bolt up the tranny and clutch to the engine with the headers installed already, then drop the k-member out of the car unless you have a different k-member. Then install the whole mess from under the car? From what I can tell you have more room doing it that way. May have to pull an reattach the steering shaft, but I think that's about the worst of it by doing it this way... That's the way I've got it planned to do it on mine, and I think that's the only way ppl are able to do a coyote swap on em as a coyote is wider than a big block... Most ppl don't realize that when they want to do a coyote swap!!
i put on the engine just to test the fit which i said is pretty poor. ill talk to hooker on mon.bugs me that i had no bad snags in 95 with one piece full length headers. engine and tranny one chunk from the top,headers from bottom.

so with headers on hold,i am persueing the clutch linkage. im starting a new thread on that because some very interesting stuff is happening and i want others to hear about it..!
with headers on the block i could see a lot of space for linkage, now MAYBE EVEN CHEAP CABLE/FORK HOOKUP!! , not $600 hydra bearing...
coming next,gotta get pix...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
well jegs is another dead end. no follow up, no call back or even e mail response.
cant reach by phone, got put on forever hold. 40 minutes,i gave up.
sent 2 more emails, no response.
no, im not going to drill and grind on $1000 headers and then find they wont fit the car.
i had my credit card stop payment...
so, done with jegs...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
this pix pretty much shows the situation.first bolt on left is snug. the center would need to bend the pipe to pull it in. the third is a small bolt i stuck in to show how the hole is out of place.
that flange should be flush with the head.
93100
 

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1990 Ford Mustang LX 351M powered!! Project Cherry Bomb!!
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WoW!! I thought Hooker headers were supposed to be like the shizznit when it comes to headers.. I remember reading the reviews on Summit on those and they weren't good, but pix really show it... I know you don't wanna hear this but I think you may be better off with the mid pipes from D&D... From their pix it looks like they have a lot better fit on em... As busy as ppl are right now (still recovering from the dumpster fire 2020) may just have to give those ppl some time and patience... I'm still waiting on a hood I ordered back on the first week of April if that tells ya how rough things are right now ... .. 😳
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
WoW!! I thought Hooker headers were supposed to be like the shizznit when it comes to headers.. I remember reading the reviews on Summit on those and they weren't good, but pix really show it... I know you don't wanna hear this but I think you may be better off with the mid pipes from D&D... From their pix it looks like they have a lot better fit on em... As busy as ppl are right now (still recovering from the dumpster fire 2020) may just have to give those ppl some time and patience... I'm still waiting on a hood I ordered back on the first week of April if that tells ya how rough things are right now ... .. 😳
id use cast iron if they fit the car. i just want to move ahead and im stuck here.
btw it actually looks like the hookers wont fit the car either but im not gonna scratch them trying without a block fit.
if i cant reach d n d theres no way i can buy anything from them...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
id use cast iron if they fit the car. i just want to move ahead and im stuck here.
btw it actually looks like the hookers wont fit the car either but im not gonna scratch them trying without a block fit.
if i cant reach d n d theres no way i can buy anything from them...
btw, do you see that they could not be using a fixture,or a 460 head,to weld this stuff together.
bolt to a head and weld, it cant not fit !!
 

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btw, do you see that they could not be using a fixture,or a 460 head,to weld this stuff together.
bolt to a head and weld, it cant not fit !!
What chassis is this for? I have Fox body headers that I ran on an 87 Mustang with stock k-member that are for sale.
 
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