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Discussion Starter #1
I recently purchased a 1979 ford f250 ranger xlt with a 460 in it, i've replaced the timing chain, starter, and now the electronic ignition module (mounts to inner fender well) if i crank her over, with my pedal to the floor she sounds like shes runnin but as soon as i let go of the key she stops, and i can't figure out whats wrong. could somebody please tell me what i need to fix/replace now??
 

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Might sound stupid but on the right side inner fender there is the starter solenoid. There are two small wires between the 2 large wires. Mark them then swap them and see if it runs.
clint
 

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Might sound stupid but on the right side inner fender there is the starter solenoid. There are two small wires between the 2 large wires. Mark them then swap them and see if it runs.
clint
It wouldn't crank if you swaped them.....one's a solonoid activation wire, the other is a secondary ign.(12V bypass during cranking).
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I should have put this up before. After I replaced the timing chain and starter I test drove it for about ten minutes, and when I was backing into my driveway she stalled and hasn't started since, I assumed at the time it was just my in carb fuel filter and replaced that. The wires on the starter solenoid are correct, thank you though. I believe it's either my coil or my distributor.
 

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Might be the ignition module. I had this happen before on another Ford. As soon as you released the key the engine would stop. Turns out there were, essentially, two ignition circuits in the module. A start mode and a run mode. The run side had failed.

This was a number of years ago and I know I'm forgetting a bunch of details but that is the crux of the story. I wish I could remember more as to how I discovered and verified this but I've slept since then.

Good luck,

Tom
 

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You know.....every timing chain that I've had knowledge of AS it failed did so right when the engine was shut off. The way you explain about the engine turning freely like that almost suguests that the cam isn't turning. Have you pulled a plug or a valve cover??? I once knew a 302 that shed the cam gear bolt (gear fell right off the cam) and quit the same as what you are saying happened.
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Pull the cap and spin the engine, is the rotor button turning?
My Buddy and I did that last night, and timed the distributor, she purrs now, thanks everybody, now i just have to play with the carb, cause she's puttin to much fuel in; my dad told me he played with the idle screw, and probably have to change my thermostat cause if she's to hot she stalls,and after sittin for about 10 mins she'll flash up again and drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Might be the ignition module. I had this happen before on another Ford. As soon as you released the key the engine would stop. Turns out there were, essentially, two ignition circuits in the module. A start mode and a run mode. The run side had failed.

This was a number of years ago and I know I'm forgetting a bunch of details but that is the crux of the story. I wish I could remember more as to how I discovered and verified this but I've slept since then.

Good luck,

Tom
Thank Ozonkiller, That was part of the problem, I went to a junkyard and pulled one off of a newer truck for $20, she turned better after I replaced that, when i looked at the back of my old one alot of the silicon cover thats there (atleast thats what I assume the back cover is made of) was melted and bubbled.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You know.....every timing chain that I've had knowledge of AS it failed did so right when the engine was shut off. The way you explain about the engine turning freely like that almost suguests that the cam isn't turning. Have you pulled a plug or a valve cover??? I once knew a 302 that shed the cam gear bolt (gear fell right off the cam) and quit the same as what you are saying happened.
Rob
When the timing chain jumped was when it backfired after being rev'd up a little bit.
 

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Check the vacuum advance linkage inside the distributor. There's a connecton from the diaphragm to the advance mechanism where a post fits thru a hole. There's a keeper that goes over the post that can come off and let the connection come apart. When that happens it lets the advance mechanism inside the disributor rotate until it reaches it's max retard, effectively slowing the timing significantly and making it run like crap. You can adjust the timing to compensate but there won't be any vacuum advance, only centrifugal. I've had it happen to me twice, both times right after I got a newly assembled engine running. Not sure why...

Something to check.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Check the vacuum advance linkage inside the distributor. There's a connecton from the diaphragm to the advance mechanism where a post fits thru a hole. There's a keeper that goes over the post that can come off and let the connection come apart. When that happens it lets the advance mechanism inside the disributor rotate until it reaches it's max retard, effectively slowing the timing significantly and making it run like crap. You can adjust the timing to compensate but there won't be any vacuum advance, only centrifugal. I've had it happen to me twice, both times right after I got a newly assembled engine running. Not sure why...

Something to check.

Ron
Thanks Rlzegers, I am going to be workin on her tommorow and I will definately look at that.
 
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