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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys, i know this has ben gone over many times but i cant seem to figure out which route is the best to take.

to begin with , i have a 514 with approx 600hp in an 86 f150. big lift 44 inch tires yada yada. anyways i built this rig 20 plus years ago. it has a radiator out of a f600 in it with a 160 degree thermostat.

now when i originally built this truck the temp never got over 160. ac , summeertime, it didnt matter. after a 6 hour road trip that i never should have taken , the temp started climbing. a jump to 180 and then a slow climb from there. i never could determine where the heat was coming from. the truck wound up sitting for many years due to a snafu with a paint and body shop . so after about 5 yrs i tried to get it road worthy again. changed all the fluids and filters multiple times. it seemed ok but it did have a little miss in it. so i finally tried to drive it to work one day ,about 15mi. on the way home the temp got a little over 200 but it was steady. i finally lost oil pressure and shut it down immediately.

i tore it down and found a stuck valve which spit a lifter out which caused the oil pressure drop. the cam was wiped out too. bearings had a few light scratches but the crank polished out.

so anyways i replaced the cam and lifters went through the block . no need for boring. new bearings . pretty much went through everything except the pistons.

i assumed this would take care of whatever my problem was. i did take my radiator to a shop and had it cleaned. well yesterday when i tried to break the cam in the motor was hot within 5 minutes. i advanced the timing a little more which helped me get through the rest of a 20 minute break in . but the temp was still just barely shy of 200.

my question is, should i go with a new radiator like the one that i have (big f600)or go to an aluminum radiator? which im sure would be smaller? how do i know which would be better? i know aluminum is supposed to have better heat exchange properties but the f600 radiator is much larger. it held at barely under 200 but i also had a big shop fan blowing through the radiator . im not concerned with weight but getting this motor temp down is paramount for me .

or can yall think of something else i might be missing? this has been quite frustrating and dissappointing to say the least
 

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1990 Ford Mustang LX 351M powered!! Project Cherry Bomb!!
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What kind of fan or fans do you have on it? Possibly clutch gone in fan clutch? If electric relay not kicking when supposed to or fans not spinning up the way they should? Also as it's a new assembly and it's not done breaking in yet it will run a tick warm...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm turning a mechanical fan an autometer temp gauge and as for temp the motor ran good at 160 b4. I know thats a little cool but I want as much wiggle room as I can in case a problem develops

Thanks!
 

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I would focus on airflow through radiator. fan clutch, number of blades, SHROUD, cavitation paths (seal rad support) and so on.
High flow tstat.
What climate? temps?

Get a cheap temp gun and check the temps at various locations; intake, t-stat housing, top of rad, bottom of rad, block.

200 isn't even close to hot in my opinion.
 

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How many gallons does it hold now ? In your situation I'd say you should have at least 6 gallons total. If it used to cool ok then why not have a rad shop take the tank off and see if it needs rodded out ? Have you ran your hand over the core feeling for cool spots ? Aluminum radiators do not cool as well as copper/brass and they don't last nearly as long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I would focus on airflow through radiator. fan clutch, number of blades, SHROUD, cavitation paths (seal rad support) and so on.
High flow tstat.
What climate? temps?

Get a cheap temp gun and check the temps at various locations; intake, t-stat housing, top of rad, bottom of rad, block.

200 isn't even close to hot in my opinion.
as far as air flows i do have an oil cooler and two tranny coolers in front of the rad so i could see where that wouldnt help but the truck has always been set up that way and i really dont know where else i would put that stuff.


i did try the heat gun thing ani had around 192 going inio rad and maybe 165 coming out. ive heard there should be a fifty degree drop. im not sure if thts right but i know i dont have that much.

im in ga so the temps can be pretty rough but this is where ive always been and it didnt bother me before

and i think i could be ok with 200 if it stayed there but when i ran it a couple days ago it was without a load and i had a really big shop fan blowing directly across the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
How many gallons does it hold now ? In your situation I'd say you should have at least 6 gallons total. If it used to cool ok then why not have a rad shop take the tank off and see if it needs rodded out ? Have you ran your hand over the core feeling for cool spots ? Aluminum radiators do not cool as well as copper/brass and they don't last nearly as long.

thats about right. somewhere between 5 1/2 to 6 gallons.

i tred the radiator shop thing and there are no longer any around the town i live in . i took it to a place 2 hrs away and the guy told me it cleaned up great but i have my doubts. i know he didnt rod it out he just "chemically" cleaned it. so it seems i just wasted my money. i cant believe there are no more shops around here anymore..

i always thought aluminum was better? so thats not the case? why is that all everyone is crows about ?
 

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1990 Ford Mustang LX 351M powered!! Project Cherry Bomb!!
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I actually used Cascade to flush mine with... Used about 1/2 to 1 cup in it, run it for awhile, up and down the streets with the heater on to clean out the heater core as well, to get it circulated good and up to temp, then dump it out, flush it out and refill with clean water to see how it's gnna do. If it seems fine, dump it again and refill with 50/50 antifreeze and distilled water mix. The Cascade doesn't foam up like other cleaners do, cuts accumulated crud out and also cleans out your block while you're at it. We used to use it on heavy duty diesel radiators that had blown oil coolers instead of replacing the radiators. This is prolly the cheapest thing for you to try, and it wouldn't hurt instead of replacing parts at this point.
 

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as far as air flows i do have an oil cooler and two tranny coolers in front of the rad so i could see where that wouldnt help but the truck has always been set up that way and i really dont know where else i would put that stuff.


i did try the heat gun thing ani had around 192 going inio rad and maybe 165 coming out. ive heard there should be a fifty degree drop. im not sure if thts right but i know i dont have that much.
The temp drop across a radiator is dependent on airflow through it. So parked at idle is worst case with lowest drop. I'd say 30* drop in that condition is good. Cooler should be OK.

What is timing at idle? Do you have vac advance? When on manifold vac (NOT ported vac) it will advance timing at idle and lower idle temps.

What is AFR at idle and cruise? lean is hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The temp drop across a radiator is dependent on airflow through it. So parked at idle is worst case with lowest drop. I'd say 30* drop in that condition is good. Cooler should be OK.

What is timing at idle? Do you have vac advance? When on manifold vac (NOT ported vac) it will advance timing at idle and lower idle temps.

What is AFR at idle and cruise? lean is hot.

The timing is at 30 deg at 2300. i think its about 24 at idle, i havent let it idle much since im still breaking hte cam in. i have about 30 deg drop in the radiator but thats with a fan blowing on it running at 2300.

the dizzy is a mad mechanical advance no vacuum'
and how do you tell the afr with no o2 sensor. im sure a lean motor is hot but i dont know how to tell without looking at plugs. it has a 850 double pumper on it so i would think its enough fuel..

once i get through break in i might try some kind of cleaning flush

thanks!
 

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yes you really need a wideband 02 to know whats happening in all conditions. After break in and some mile put new plugs in and check em'.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
HI Just as another though.. do you have a big stall converter or why are you running two tranny coolers? how big are they? I have a huge one on my 545 almost takes up 1/2 the radiator air flow?

good luck take care be safe
tim
I do have an old cap and it is dribbling a little bit out but not alot. Not enough to see a level loss. I don't know if the pressure loss could be affecting me that much though.

And I do have a big stall in it with two coolers plus an ac evaporator and an oil cooler. So that doesn't help but I need all these things. Where else could you put them ? And when I originally built the truck none of this caused an issue.
 
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