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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I'll repeat what some others sprinkled-in for focus. Do a search for how to properly do each one:
  • Verify your displayed temperatures are accurate. We find more problems are bad readings than issues.
  • Test your thermostat for proper operation, cracking open at rated temperature and fully open within ±20°F higher.
  • A 13# cap is correct for a 160°F thermostat rating, allowing boil-off before engine damage.
  • Rebuild, modified or old? Check your actual TDC and verify your timing marks with a piston stop.
  • Get a vacuum advance on that thing, as highway cruise is retarded (adding heat) without it. Until then:
  • Rev the engine in neutral to find where your advance is all in. Set your all-in timing to 36-38° when above that rpm for now. Report where idle timing settles to at that point.
  • Use an IR gun to measure temps everywhere, and for clues of hot-spots or differential.
  • Set your warm idle mixture for the richest that will give the max manifold vacuum reading.
  • Read your spark plugs after 10 minutes at consistent high-cruise. Key-off from cruise and coast to the side to read a couple of them. Be safe.
  • Lean is not hot if your timing is set for it. Without vacuum advance, it's not getting enough, so your plugs should be light to dark tan.
  • Verify fan and shroud fit, and test the fan clutch if you have one.
  • Note under what conditions the temperatures rise. This will clue you to what is weak in the system at that point.
  • Report any findings or changes for more specific suggestions.
  • Good luck!
thanks a bunch. alot of good info there!

i got some answers some ill have to get back to you on.

i do wonder a little about the gauges. they are quality but old. i know at one point i saw it jump hard like it was stuck so from then on i was tapping the gauge to make sure it was moving. it seemed to be. and i was using a temp gun and it did seem to be tracking about the same as the gauge

i didnt test thermostat but it was brand new

i did rebuild the motor and degree the cam in so im sure tdc is accurate

i dont have a fan shroud and i know that can make a difference but ive never had one and it didnt seem to matter before

i guess part of my biggest questions are concerning the timing. when i finish breaking the cam in ill play with the timing more. i know right now at about 2300rpms im at 30 degrees.

the friend of mine that helped me build the motor all those years ago is the one that recommended the mechanical advance dizzy. and it was fine then but i wonder if the moving parts being worn can cause my issue. the springs dont seem to be stretched but there is some slop there. why do you recommend the vacuum advance over the mechanical? i guess im asking in which case is one beneficial over the other?

thanks again!
 

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At idle and decel vac advance increases timing needed to burn the whole mixture, as it is slower/more difficult to burn at these conditions. Else it continues to burn on the way out, head ports, exhaust.

30* total sounds low, unless you have really efficient chambers. What heads do you have? Iron heads are more like 34-36.
You state earlier that base was 24, which is likely already advanced enough, so doubt that is your issue.

I run 16 base, 36 total. vac add about 12 at idle (28 total @ idle). mech adds another 20 by 3k.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
hey guys, ive been working alot so not a chance yet to try some of these things out yall have mentioned but i was doing some thinking..

i remember at some point in the past my transmission started giving me isues with overheating and i had to put another cooler on it. i already had an oil cooler and a transmission cooler between the radiator and the evaporator so i put this last cooler on the front of the evaporator. i wish i could recall if thats when the heat problem started but its been too long ago. it seems like i would have caught it then but who knows.

i guess thats alot of coolers robbing the cool air before it gets to the radiator huh? the tranny alone can ge close to 200. one thing that has me wondering though is how much heat is expected in a transmission while the motor is running in park? the heat on the tranny got up there pretty good while i was breaking the cam in. i wouldnt think you would see heat unless it had a load on it but maybe im wrong.

and if that is the problem, where in the heck else is there to put a tranny cooler? any ideas?

thanks again guys!
 

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The trans should not build much heat in park. The torque converter is main source of trans heat, when it is under heavy load. If you have trans fluid going through the radiator (liquid/liquid), the engine coolant will heat up the trans.

I would not use radiator cooler and only one large air to liquid type. I used a 6.0 powerstroke cooler on mine as it is big, cheap and Ford OEM quality. My trans doesn't go above 150 even when it is 115* outside and I am climbing 7% grade at 75 mph, A/C blowing cold. On 40s, 4.10s, c6.
 
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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
The trans should not build much heat in park. The torque converter is main source of trans heat, when it is under heavy load. If you have trans fluid going through the radiator (liquid/liquid), the engine coolant will heat up the trans.

I would not use radiator cooler and only one large air to liquid type. I used a 6.0 powerstroke cooler on mine as it is big, cheap and Ford OEM quality. My trans doesn't go above 150 even when it is 115* outside and I am climbing 7% grade at 75 mph, A/C blowing cold. On 40s, 4.10s, c6.
nice lookng ride man! what kind of radiator are you running? it looks similar in size to mine.

im not running a trans cooler "in the radiator" just 2 separate ones. the engine oil and first trans cooler are 1.5 inches thick and are in between the ac evaporater and the rad and the other is 3/4" thick and is in front of the ac evaporator similar to yours.

i do have a big stall in my converter so i know thats gonna make some heat and i need to keep the trans under 200. im strting to think with all coolers in the same place the engine and tranny are gonna just run the same temps. and 200 is too much fror the tranny
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
well i finally took her out for a drive today after i finished breaking the cam in. the temp got to about 190 during the break in and while driving down to about 180. so its still not 160 like it used to be but thats better. of course it was alot cooler outside today as well.

im thinking part of my problem is maybe timing . i htink all my timing was in by about 2500rpms at about 34 during the break in. when i idled it back down to an idle i still had about 30 degrees.

sh estill does nt feel like shes got the power she used to but at leat shes runnimg again

thanks for all the help guys!
 

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Glad you got it moving under it's own power.
I think it was mentioned before but pop the cap off and make sure the advance mechanism is not stuck. lube if needed.

My radiator is a 'super cooling' style that was oem back in the 60s and 70s on camper special trucks and others.. It's a reman, copper/brass, down flow. Nothing special really. My stack up is thick with trans cooler and AC condenser.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Glad you got it moving under it's own power.
I think it was mentioned before but pop the cap off and make sure the advance mechanism is not stuck. lube if needed.

My radiator is a 'super cooling' style that was oem back in the 60s and 70s on camper special trucks and others.. It's a reman, copper/brass, down flow. Nothing special really. My stack up is thick with trans cooler and AC condenser.
i dont think its stuck as much as im concerned about it being too loose.the springs arent stretched but the weights are floppy. i dont have one to compare to to know if thats normal or not'
 
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