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I just picked up a pre-owned Edelbrock Performer intake manifold to replace the cracked (in the exhaust crossover) stock cast iron manifold on my rebuilt 460 in my 1971 F250. My question is what type of gasket is proper for the aluminum manifold. Should I go with the stock style metal pan gasket or the two individual style gaskets? Also is it OK to use all the stock bolts and should I use factory torque spec's? Any advice or experience appreciated.

Thanks
Jeff
 

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I've used either the Felpro stock rebuilder(hard blue) gaskets as well as the tin pan setup without trouble with the Performer intake on a 460.
 

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I've used either the Felpro stock rebuilder(hard blue) gaskets as well as the tin pan setup without trouble with the Performer intake on a 460.
X2...

The manifold bolt length requirements can be a bit different with the aluminum intakes. Adjust accordingly.

Seal the bolts whose threads are open to the rocker valley.
Torque to spec in 4 steps
USE THE FACTORY TIGHTENING SEQUENCE !!!

Silicone around the water passages front and back on both sides of gasket.
I also put a really light bit around the ports and in between to keep oil from wicking up.

Do not use the rubber china wall seals. Toss them and use a heavy bead of silicone instead. Pre-fit the intake to determine the height of bead needed.

Use the corner vertical studs to locate intake.

Lastly... Cut a piece of sheet metal to fit in the gasket cross over cut out as pictured and silicone in place.

If you need cold start driveability then drill a 5/16" hole as pictured. If you live in a warm climate block it off completely. Aluminum easily absorbs the cross over heat causing the intake to get too hot and percolating the carb.


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I've used either the Felpro stock rebuilder(hard blue) gaskets without trouble with the Performer intake on a 460.
Same here , those gaskets works nice .

Steer clear of the Felpro Printoseal gaskets , the black gasket with blue bead around each port . They don't last
 

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The factory bolts/6 studs should be the proper length for the standard performer. Like everyone else said use the fel-pro 901101 blue and don't worry about the fact that the intake runners on the manifold are a lot smaller than the cylinder head ports.
 

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I opened the box that contained my intake gasket today and it wasn't what I expected. I ordered the fel-pro one piece gasket with the valley pan and thought it was supposed to be metal with blue fiber gasket material. Instead it has an embossed graphite material like a MLH .......are they a new replacement for the old one or did I get the wrong one? This is for my Eddy Perf on my hauler. I searched the fel-pro site and it appears to be this one..MS96018. Will this work or is there a better one. I'm doing the exh block off and spacer on this truck as well.
Thanks
Mark
 

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When it comes to a valley pan and gasket for the 385 series engines there's 2 choices (or at least there was back in the day). One is a solid one piece valley pan with the aluminum "gaskets" riveted to it. The other (and the one that I prefer for an aluminum intake and cast iron heads) is a 3 piece set up that has a valley pan that rests on the china walls and comes up to the bottom of the intake runners on the head and has the thick graphite gaskets that lets the intake and head expand at different rates. Again I don't have the part #. Sorry.
Rob
 

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When it comes to a valley pan and gasket for the 385 series engines there's 2 choices (or at least there was back in the day). One is a solid one piece valley pan with the aluminum "gaskets" riveted to it. I don't have the Fel Pro #, I just threw the box away when I put my boat motor together recently but Carl will know it. The other (and the one that I prefer for an aluminum intake and cast iron heads) is a 3 piece set up that has a valley pan that rests on the china walls and comes up to the bottom of the intake runners on the head and has the thick graphite gaskets that lets the intake and head expand at different rates. Again I don't have the Fel Pro #. Sorry.
Rob
Thanks Rob. I started a new thread after I posted here but now I'm getting closer to the answer I am seeking.
 

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Another gasket i found great as recommended by the guys here is the Victor Reinz nitro seal's . They are a graphite type metal gasket also .
Sounds similar to these valley pan setups as far as the gaskets on the heads go. Would be keen to see any pics if you have any. Might be something for me to try .
After trouble with the Felpro Printoseal gaskets it is an interest of mine lol
 

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X2...

The manifold bolt length requirements can be a bit different with the aluminum intakes. Adjust accordingly.

Seal the bolts whose threads are open to the rocker valley.
Torque to spec in 4 steps
USE THE FACTORY TIGHTENING SEQUENCE !!!

Silicone around the water passages front and back on both sides of gasket.
I also put a really light bit around the ports and in between to keep oil from wicking up.

Do not use the rubber china wall seals. Toss them and use a heavy bead of silicone instead. Pre-fit the intake to determine the height of bead needed.

Use the corner vertical studs to locate intake.

Lastly... Cut a piece of sheet metal to fit in the gasket cross over cut out as pictured and silicone in place.

If you need cold start driveability then drill a 5/16" hole as pictured. If you live in a warm climate block it off completely. Aluminum easily absorbs the cross over heat causing the intake to get too hot and percolating the carb.


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Hi,
I know this is an old thread but it has something I was wanting to know, so excuse maybe the obvious question as I'm still learning.
I am about to replace the intake manifold gasket on my 429. (Again! After it leaked due to me not putting enough sealant on the china walls last time!) Anyway I have read quite a bit, like you have written, about people blocking off the exhaust crossover with a piece of sheet metal.
My question is... Does this allow the manifold to seal properly? As technically there is a piece of metal in the middle of the head that is higher than the main surface. Or am I getting worried about nothing and the thickness of a piece of sheetmetal will be absorbed by the gasket sealant??
or should I not worry about it and just let the crossover be?...As the car has been running fine previously.
(I live in a mild climate. The 429 is in an AC Cobra replica and is just used as a Sunday driver)
 

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I live in a warm climate and have no need for the heat riser. In the summer the heat riser adds to the carburetor's heat and causes more problems. When I do the intake manifold on my 460 I use a gasket that has no opening in it for the heat riser passage; LPG gaskets (Fel-Pro MS96044; Mahle MS15817) and I believe the Mahle 95109SG.?
 

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Hi,
I know this is an old thread but it has something I was wanting to know, so excuse maybe the obvious question as I'm still learning.
I am about to replace the intake manifold gasket on my 429. (Again! After it leaked due to me not putting enough sealant on the china walls last time!) Anyway I have read quite a bit, like you have written, about people blocking off the exhaust crossover with a piece of sheet metal.
My question is... Does this allow the manifold to seal properly? As technically there is a piece of metal in the middle of the head that is higher than the main surface. Or am I getting worried about nothing and the thickness of a piece of sheetmetal will be absorbed by the gasket sealant??
or should I not worry about it and just let the crossover be?...As the car has been running fine previously.
(I live in a mild climate. The 429 is in an AC Cobra replica and is just used as a Sunday driver)

Keep the gauge thickness of the block off at just less than the thickness of the gasket.

Use silicone sealer behind the plate and around the gasket cut out. We've never had issue. Typically I seal the gasket to the head and attach the intake to set the gasket. The next day I install the block off, seal the manifold side of the gaskets, apply silicone to the china walls and drop the intake. The use of the corner studs really helps locate the intake accurately.

My post above shows what things look like before sealing and dropping intake.


SJ
used 2b RHP


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Keep the gauge thickness of the block off at just less than the thickness of the gasket.

Use silicone sealer behind the plate and around the gasket cut out. We've never had issue. Typically I seal the gasket to the head and attach the intake to set the gasket. The next day I install the block off, seal the manifold side of the gaskets, apply silicone to the china walls and drop the intake. The use of the corner studs really helps locate the intake accurately.

My post above shows what things look like before sealing and dropping intake.

SJ
used 2b RHP
Hi,
Thanks for that...And sorry for another obvious question...I just want to get it right!!.
But on your post above, with the photo. It looks like the block off plate that you've made is between the gasket and the head. But in your recent reply you say you place/set the gasket on the head. then install the block off plate and intake the next day. So that would mean the block off plate is on the intake side of the gasket?? Am I reading it wrong or does it not matter what side of the gasket it goes on??
Cheers
Scott
 

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Hi,
Thanks for that...And sorry for another obvious question...I just want to get it right!!.
But on your post above, with the photo. It looks like the block off plate that you've made is between the gasket and the head. But in your recent reply you say you place/set the gasket on the head. then install the block off plate and intake the next day. So that would mean the block off plate is on the intake side of the gasket?? Am I reading it wrong or does it not matter what side of the gasket it goes on??
Cheers
Scott

The block off insert pictured is trimmed out of stainless steel and dressed on a grinder to fit INSIDE the felpro gasket cut out for the cross over.

That was staged for a picture.


SJ
used 2b RHP


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20200427_173430.jpg
 

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Oh bugger!...It was a nice day here so I decided to go ahead and finish the job, and I put some tin between the gasket and the head. I just hope the tin that I used is thin enough not to interfere with the gasket and not have it seal properly.
....I'll see what happens when I start it up tomorrow!
 

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Oh bugger!...It was a nice day here so I decided to go ahead and finish the job, and I put some tin between the gasket and the head. I just hope the tin that I used is thin enough not to interfere with the gasket and not have it seal properly.
....I'll see what happens when I start it up tomorrow!

We did a dyno test a few years ago with thin brass shim behind the gasket on each side with the expectation it would blow out. We were able to quantify the loss of torque with a heated intake versus non heated. I knew the moment the passage was blown open simply by the Tq / Hp read out.

Loss was primarily at the start of the pulls and as latent heat of vaporization cooled the intake the loss was less apparent at the HP peak.


SJ
used 2b RHP


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