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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 52 willys truck body (rat rod) that I put on an 1989 econoline E350 chassis. It has headers and dual 3" with an H-pipe running through a set of magnaflows. That is all that I have done in the performance department for now. Currently running the factory radiator from the E350 in the bed of my truck with dual Taurus/Sable fans that turn on at 200 and off at 185 if I recall correctly. I have absolutely no issues with over heating. No mechanical fan on the motor. It has a C6, 4:10s and 29-30" tires.

It's a real pain having the radiator in the bed when I want to use it as a truck and it's an eye sore. The truck doesn't get used as a "real truck". No trailer pulling but on occasion the bed will be used. That could be from a load of plywood to a 4 wheeler, nothing excessive.

The area I have to work with (after cutting out the grill) under the hood is 18" wide by 20" tall. I can possibly run a radiator as much as 3" thick and would have to run small pusher fan/fans instead of pullers. My question is, is this doable to run a radiator that small and still have no problems over heating? 95% of the time I'm driving around empty beating on it and enjoying the sound of the exhaust. Being a very small truck and a lot of motor space is cramped to say the least under the hood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Here's a couple pictures showing just how tight the space I'm working with is and a shot of the radiator in the bed. Look for the yellow tape measurer in the second picture. There's roughly 1-1/4" and I'm willing to cut the back of the grill out more.
Wheel Automotive tire Wood Motor vehicle Rim

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Gas Vehicle

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Grille Hood
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
After more than a week of reading until my eyes bleed and looking at the truck over and over again. I can fit a radiator 19" tall and 26" wide. I have found one that is all aluminum and a cross flow, dual 1" cores for around $140. I also found a radiator size calculator. According to what I typed in it calculated I needed around 1100 ci. This radiator seems to be the ticket.

What else I read says go with a 3 or 4 row radiator. My only worry with that is I have to run pusher fans and am limited to the area behind my grill that is 17x18". I have not been able to find one 16" fan or dual 10" fans that flow enough cfm.

Anyone have any experience with a situation like this? I could use some advice, thanks.
 

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Do it, only one way to see if it'll keep her cool. Add an oil cooler as well, keeping the engine oil cool can do wonders for keeping the engine cool. Locate oil coolers or trans coolers away from the radiator if you can. Build a nice shroud for you fans, seal off the bottom and try to direct all of the air you can at the radiator.

I had a c3 vette I put a big block in for a customer, couldn't keep it cool to save my life. Sealing up holes, directing air from the chin spoiler, and adding an oil cooler was the ticket.
 

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I agree you have to ty something and adapt as needed. I think you can get there.
As you have found effective cooling BTUs are radiator area, air flow across it, and temp differential.
What area do you live in? max ambient temp?
As long as engine is not heavily loaded for long periods of time the BTU requirement is lower.

2nd sealing all the gaps and making air that goes thru rad come from the outside not cavitation/fan wash. I build a belly pan and sealed the core up as best I could, I live in AZ so hot as F.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I do have a large oil cooler on the truck currently that was original to the econoline I started with. The radiator I have picked out does not have a trans cooler in it so I'll have to get one.

I'm in Michigan. Max air temp 105-ish max and higher humidity during the summer.

I'll go for it and see what I can come up with. If I can get a set of very narrow pullers I'll go that route instead of pushers. Worse case is I can't keep it cool and resort back to my current set up or move the engine and trans back about 2" to give me the room I really need.

Thanks
 

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Personally I’d move the engine back the 2” and give myself a little working room. Pushers just don’t cut it when the cooling demand is high. In reality you need a good sealing shroud even with pullers.
 
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